Seville’s Best Terrace Bars for Summer

When the days in Seville heat up (which should have happened, um, six weeks ago), the streets empty out. Buildings are hugged for shade, gazpacho and cold beer are chugged by the gallon. Sevilla literally becomes a ghost town in the summer months, and those of us unfortunate enough to be here have only one option (unless you count day-long showers while eating popsicles as a feasible option, which I totally and shamelessly do):

Terrace bars, called terrazas.

Seville's BestSeville is nestled in the Guadalquivir River valley, one of the flattest parts in all of Spain. This means that all of the hot air sits in right on top of the city, creating an effect called er borchorno. During the evening, the Guadalquivir is just about the only place where we can get some relief, so many of the discos take their booze bottles down to the banks and take advantage of the breeze. I have tons of great memories of nights where I’d roll out of bed at 8pm when the night was finally cooling down, grab some drinks with friends and head to the discos.

Here’s a few of my top picks:

ROOF: This concept bar opened in Spring 2012, staking claim on a multi-storied roof in the Macarena neighborhood. An acquaintance was in charge of the set-up and social media, so I took advantage and dragged La Cait along with me.

The design is part-sevillano-bar, part-Moroccan-bungalow, and ROOF serves up imaginative cocktails along with decent snacks. Just be aware of the long lines for a drink on weekends, and bring your camera – the views are incredible, particularly at night. (ROOF is located on the top floor of the Hotel Casa Romana at Calle Trajano, 5. Cocktails will run you 6-8€. Open daily from midday.)

Terraza at Hotel EME – The hip hang at a terrace bar that’s right next to the Giralda, making it a perfect place to watch the sun go down while having a gin tonic. Electronic music pulsates at pretty much any hour of the day, and cocktails are wildly expensive, but treating yourself to an overpriced mojito when your best friend visits it acceptable, right? (Calle Alemanes, 27, on the 4th floor of the Hotele EME Cathedral).

Hotel Inglaterra – I was introduced to this bar when Gary Arndt, the blogger behind the successful Everything, Everywhere, had tapas with Sandra of Seville Traveler and me. The terrace doesn’t have a ton of character, with fake grass and plastic chairs, but it does have some of the best views of the center of town and a bird’s-eye view of Plaza Nueva – plus, it’s not too crowded or expensive. (Plaza Nueva, 7. Open from 5:30pm daily).

Capote – having a beer at Caopte takes me back to my days as an auxiliar de conversación, long before adult responsibilities like a full-time job and master’s. Nestled just below the Triana bridge, the open-air bar has great parties and promotions, and it’s often a good place from which to start the night. Famous for their mojitos, the bar’s always full of an eclectic mix of people, and they offer cachimbas and ample seating. (Next to the Triana Bridge, open from 1om until 4am from Semana Santa until mid September)

Embarcadero – I wasn’t clued into Embarcadero until a few summers ago. Crammed between two riverside restaurants, a steep staircase leads right down to the water, and the bar has a nautical feel. Embarcadero actually means pier, so lone sailboats rock gently with the current of the Guadalquivir, and heavy ropes are all that separate the water from the wooden planks of the floor. Live music, good service and unobstructed views of the Torre del Oro make this bar one of my favorites. (Calle Betis, 69. Open daily from 5pm until around 2am)

Alfonso – When the summer months get too hot to bear, two discos open at the foot of Plaza de América in María Luisa Park. With the dramatic backdrop of the lush green space and its museums, Alfonso’s breezy terrace rocks into the wee hours of the morning. This is a place to see and be seen without feeling so stuffy. (Located at the south end of Plaza de América in María Luisa park, just off Avenida de la Palmera. Typically open mid-June to mid-September from 10pm).

There’s a whole loads of other – Puerto de Cuba, Chile, Ritual, Bilindo, Casino – but I’m too low key to ever go to them (or get into them!).

The Gourmet Experience at El Corte Inglés: Even if it’s not summertime, the terrace on the top floor of the Corte Inglés in Duque operates yearround, provng that sevillanos will brave any sort of weather to be able to smoke and drink outside. 

terraza Corte Ingles Gourmet

Apart from food offerings, cocktails and beer are served every day of the week on the spacious terrace, which boasts views of the old town. (Situated on the sixth floor of the flagship Corte Inglés in Plaza del Duque, right in the heart of town. Open daily from noon; hours fluctuate for weekends and holidays.)

Have any favorite terrace bars in your city? Please have a sip in my honor – I’m busy planning my wedding!

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About Cat Gaa

As a beef-loving Chicago girl living amongst pigs, bullfighters, and a whole lotta canis, Cat Gaa writes about expat life in Seville, Spain. When not cavorting with adorable Spanish grandpas or struggling with Spanish prepositions, she works in higher education at an American university in Madrid and freelances with other publications, like Rough Guides and The Spain Scoop.

Comments

  1. Hey, that’s me! Haha, that was a fun night at Alfonso. Miss you and the Terrazas so much!

  2. Great post, Cat! I always wondered how you could survive the sweltering summer heat down there in the city – but now I know! Useful information – thank you!
    Sue Sharpe recently posted..A Change Would Do You Good…..My Profile

    • Sunshine and Siestas says:

      I usually don’t – more often than not, I escape to La Coruña in July and back to Chicago in August! I’ll only sweat through three weeks this summer, thankfully!

  3. Guess what they say is true, warm weather has been late all over Spain and it seems in many places in Europe! Good luck with finishing your master’s!
    Lauren @ roamingtheworld recently posted..Saying “Hasta Luego” to Basque Country!My Profile

  4. I love this! And actually, I’ve been working on a post like this for Barcelona. Gotta say, the research has been really hard work…;)

    I think I’ve been to the EME one. Does it have a restaurant too, or am I mixing it up with another hotel terrace?
    Jessica of HolaYessica recently posted..Where in Spain Wednesday – Avilés, AsturiasMy Profile

    • Sunshine and Siestas says:

      Sorry for the late reply, guapa! You know what having parents in town is like. EME has a restaurant and a cafeteria on the first floor, but the only food they serve up top is mixed nuts!

  5. Oof. I’m not sure how I would do over there in the summer time. I’m not a big fan of intense heat and it certainly sounds like you have your fair share. Then again, I might be able to be persuaded to spend a little time on a terrace bar. So, you know, trade-offs… Great list!

    • Sunshine and Siestas says:

      I’m currently in Galicia and sweating – I never thought it got so hot here!! Thanks for visiting, Danni!

  6. You guys having really fun in Seville during summer time. I used to move to cool places during summer time because I cannot keep up with heat. I’ve allergy in hotness. I guess I’m missing so much because of my skin problem. Though I enjoyed high intense of fun through reading out this awesome post. Keep sharing…
    Jefferson recently posted..Facts about Pneumonic PlagueMy Profile

  7. Alfonso was my fave when I was a student there. Stuck to daytime parks more often when I was au paring though! Loved stumbling on this blog, Seville might be the best place on the planet. Thanks for this list – I’ll tuck it away for when I next visit!

    • Sunshine and Siestas says:

      …people wonder why I have lived here so long until they visit! And do let me know when you come – we’ll meet for a cervecita!

  8. These look like some really cool bars! I’ll hopefully get to check some of these out one day. Thanks for sharing your trip!

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  1. […] become lively again after 9pm, when people descend on the cervecerías and spend the night at Seville’s best terrazas, or an outdoor […]

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