Seville Snapshots: Bartering at the Plaza de España

The first (and one of very, very few) feeling I ever had of notoriety was from one Cassandra Gambill, who started following my blog way back before I knew theat people were actually reading. Naturally, I was thrilled when she chose to come to Spain a few years ago and blog about, so I gladly accepted her submission from her most recent trip to Seville.

Rediscovering Sevilla after a brief trip south in 2007, I had to rectify my image of this Andalusian town. When I had originally visited, preparations for the subway system left the city dirty and dusty. Whenever I saw photos of iconic Sevilla, I couldn’t recognize them as anything I’d seen, including the beautifully tiled Plaza de España.

Even though the day was overcast when I finally made it back to Sevilla, I immediately appreciated the grandeur and color of this sophisticated square. Speaking of color, there were plenty of local characters who also made the place a feast for the eyes and ears. In this corner alone there were lovey-dovey locals, backpacking-toting tourists, a scarf-and-abanico vendor, and a wandering woman hoping to plant rosemary sprigs on unsuspecting sightseers.

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Going on her third year in the Spanish capital, Cassandra Gambill is now working towards a Master’s in Bilingual Education at the Universidad de Alcalá de Henares. Her motto? Where there’s a will there’s a way, and where’s a puente, there’s a trip in the making.

 

You can follow Cassandra via her blog and twitter:

Blog: www.geecassandra.com

Twitter: https://twitter.com/geecassandra

Seville Snapshots: The Quiet Hours

My life has undergone a huge overhaul in the last four months. When I think about the first half of 2012, it almost makes me shudder: I wasn’t happy with my job, was barely sleeping, had a badly battered outlook on my life in Spain.

Whatever isn’t broken shouldn’t be fixed, but when something is so, so badly broken (namely, my confidence in myself and my love affair with Seville), the major overhaul is necessary.

So, I quit my job. In this economy? Being a tenured teacher? You must be crazy, Cat! they all said, but in the end, I was the one with enough guts to do it. I walked out on my last day and didn’t feel any effect, just crazy relief. Camp followed, then a five-week trip home to give me some perspective while I enjoyed central air and a new pup at home.

Since coming back to Iberia two months ago, I’ve started a new job, a master’s in PR, redesigned my blog (which is a longer process than I thought), bought a MacBook Air and have started enjoying, actually savoring, Seville again.

 

One benefit of working in the afternoon is being able to enjoy the quiet hours in Seville, when the sun paints the city center golden, before Constitución fills with people. I’ve often staked out breakfast spots by less conventional terms, like the way the sunlight spills over the outdoor tables or by quirky decor. But, sitting right in front of the Giralda with a menu boasting poorly translated English, German and French (I’m assuming) was this character.

One of the most lovely feelings of living in Seville is the sense of being transported back to another era. As I listened to the horse carriages behind me and the whirr of a coffee machine, I watched him scribble notes in a small, leather-bound book while sipping a bloody mary.

Let’s face it: I love a man who isn’t afraid to have a drink before noon.

Seville Snapshots: Horse Carriages

Last night, after my friend Karen’s book party, I fell asleep curled up listening to a heavy downpour while I hogged both sides of the bed. For someone who craves summer and the smell of chlorine coming off my wrinkled skin, I don’t exactly love Fall.

THERE! I said it.

This morning, after an entire week at home researching the motorcycle helmet market for a project, I had no choice but to buncle up, brave the rain and get into town for errands. The skies were a cobalt grey, sign of more rain to come this weekend. But the thing I love most about the rain is how the vibrant colors of Seville’s city center always seem to stand out more. The salmon pink Salvador church, the albero grit on the cathedral are even more striking when skies are overcast.

I was especially taken by the romantic horse carriages available for rent in the city center. As someone who grew up with a horse, I often think of my mother when I walk downtown or hear the clip clop behind me in Parque María Luisa. This coches de caballo seem to be nostalgia tugging at my sleeve – both for our childhood horse, Pudge, and for the Seville that existed in its heyday.

If you’d like to contribute your photos from Spain and Seville, please send me an email at sunshineandsiestas @ gmail.com with your name, short description of the photo, and any bio or links directing you back to your own blog, Facebook page or twitter. There’s plenty more pictures of the gorgeous Seville on Sunshine and Siesta’s new Facebook page!

Seville Snapshots: Santa Catalina Church

When my friend Nancy came to visit nearly five years ago, she had two goals in mind: to not eat anything with a head on it, and to see as many Catholic temples as she could.

Since I had to work, I let Nancy loose with little more than a map, marked with circles around all of the places I thought interesting and worth a visit. She, instead, gravitated towards the churches. Her walk down Calle Imágen took her all the way to Santa Catalina de Alejanría, a mudejar style church right next to the bus depot and steps away from the Duquesa de Alba’s house.

The church has been closed to the public since 2004, upon which is was deemed in ruins. Despite the local government proclaiming its worth, no public money was put towards its restoration, even though immediate action was called for eight years ago. Locals have called for the intervention of the Cultural commission in the city to finance the project, but it may be that St. Catherine’s is closed forever.

You can sign a petition for the call to action by sending an email to elrinconcitocofrade@yahoo.es (Asunto: “Por Santa Catalina”) and leaving your full name.

If you’d like to contribute your photos from Spain and Seville, please send me an email at sunshineandsiestas @ gmail.com with your name, short description of the photo, and any bio or links directing you back to your own blog, Facebook page or twitter. There’s plenty more pictures of the gorgeous Seville on Sunshine and Siesta’s new Facebook page!

Sampling Barajas20 Tapas Bar: between Gastro and Traditional

My friend Mickey and I have a lot more in common than our birthday. We most often come together when food and wine are involved.

I’ve tried to feign foodie forever, but the truth is that I don’t know parsley from persimmon. I gave up the act, but what I haven’t given up going out for a night of tapeo, washed down with one of Spain’s many DOs. Mickey happens to know a bit more about wine than I do, which makes going for a meal with her a treat.

The New York Times recently wrote that Seville is undergoing a sort of renaissance where Soho-like pockets are popping up all over the city, a barrio with boutiques, gastrobars and mismatched furniture on the corner. Mickey lives right in the thick of it, so when we decided to meet for tapas on Thursday night, she rattled off a list of three places that had popped up while we were away for the summer.

We settled on Barajas20, a halfway point between traditional bars and a gastrobar. The old hallmarks are on the list – croquetas, pavia de merluza, espinacas – but done with a bit more flair. I had a feeling I was going to like Mickey’s find.

Spilling light out onto Calle Conde de Barajas, just a few steps from Plaza San Lorenzo, the bar resembles a college dorm cafeteria at first glance – naked walls, colorful plastic furniture, young clientele. Mickey and I took the lone table on the street and were immediately attended. Two glasses of Ribera, per usual.

Mickey ordered salmon steak with guacamole and mushroom risotto. I asked for the risotto and pig cheek ravioli, wanting to compare it with other bars of similar caliber. For our palates, the star dish was most definitely the salmon, as the rice was a bit undercooked and the ravioli was nothing stellar. Note to self: Best not to try a gastrobar on a Sunday, when ingredients are likely not as their freshest.

Rather than sharing another tapa, we chose to have another glass of wine. A couple and their slick greyhound had dragged a table out onto the terrace and ordered a glass of white: Las Tetas de la Sacristiana. As it turned out, Edu was a wine distributor and a fixture at his neighborhood bar, along with other big names in hostelería. Las Tetas was his star brand, made from tempranillo, cabernet and merlot grapes. Light yet robust, it was a perfect addendum to a meal.

The head chef came to ask about our dinner and drinks. Mickey ld off with the fact that I was a blogger and often write about food and culture, offering him up a business card. One of the original partners of the group, he and some friends had built the place from the ground-up, staying strictly middle-ground – not too pijito and not too gritty. Their plans are to make it a bit more local by adding a rotating art gallery, changing the menus according to the season and wine tastings. He explained that they tend to have a steady house red and white while rotating in and out different D.O.’s – denominación de origen.

With a click of his fingers, we had a limoncello in front of us.

I’d be willing to give Barajas20 another try on a weeknight. While the food didn’t impress, the service and attention certainly did. And, if you end up leaving hungry, you’re just steps away from one of Seville’s best-known tapas bars (with reason), Eslava.

Been to Barajas20? What did you order? Know of any other great eateries in Seville? Want me to come along and eat? Seville is appealing to UNESCO to add yet another award to the city as the World Capital of the Tapa, so stay tuned for more gluttony from the Hispalense!

 

Seville Snapshots: Plaza de España

My first visit to Plaza de España was on my day of arrival to Seville after studying in Valladolid. I sat on the tiled bench of the province and wrote my observations of the city that I would later reside in and call home. Those reflections are lost in a mountain of possessions in Chicago, but the city left enough of an impression on me to call me back two years later.

I took my grandma to Plaza de España on our first day in Seville, fresh off the plane. The day was sweltering for mid September, and we mostly hung to the colonnades and in the mist of the enormous fountain in the middle of the half-moon  square crowning the María Luisa Park. I used to argue it was the most beautiful building in the city.

But five years later as a semi-jaded expat, it’s hard to see this beautiful neo-mudejár palace as anything but a place where the government has wasted far too many hours of my life. Hidden beneath the brick and marble are government offices, including police headquarters, military outposts and the dreaded Oficina de Extranjeros – the foreigner’s office.

Rolling out of bed to get my Número de Identificación de Extranjeros meant rolling out of bed at 5:30 a.m., just as day was breaking. I waited for a number until 8am, then wasn’t seen until 11a.m. Doing anything within that slack little office means rethinking your willingness to stay in Spain, but there are ways to make the experience more pleasant. The best one? Walking out into the sunshine after being in a windowless office for hours and seeing the south tower reflected in the moat of a place witness to the Iberoamerican Fair, several marches and demonstrations, and even the filming of The Dictator.

Thanks to my pal, Jeremy Bassetti, for the gorgeous photo! Follow him at:

Photo © A Painter of Modern Life (http://apainterofmodernlife.wordpress.com).

Twitter: www.twitter.com/apoml Facebook: www.facebook.com/APainterOfModernLife

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