Things to Do in Madrid with Kids: the best activites for all ages

Updated November 2025 – with kids in tow.

It’s no secret that Madrid is one of my favorite cities to visit – I love the energy, the options and the closest a Spanish city can come to my native Chicago. But it can get overwhelming as a capital city (and one of the largest in Europe!), and even more so for children. We chose to leave Madrid to head back to Seville in 2019, coinciding with the birth of our second son, but I truly love bringing my elementary school aged children to the Spanish capital often.Madrid Plaza Mayor

We love to check out what’s on during our frequent trips to Madrid, from new parks to temporary museum exhibits. And thanks to Spain’s attention to families, there is literally no shortage of things to do with kids in Madrid.

Where can I find ideas of what to do in Madrid with kids?

Start with Madrid’s official tourism page. You’ll find curated lists for family-friendly activities, ideas of what’s on and links to buy tickets. You can also drop by the tourism office in Plaza Mayor, a great place to visit in its own right.

 

Top things to do in Madrid for children up to 5 years old

Admire animals at the Madrid Zoo Aquarium (Casa del Campo. M: Casa del Campo, L5, L10)

This is not your ordinary zoo or aquarium, and your children will love to see animals roaming about without any chains or wiring. Conentiently located in Casa de Campo – a wonderful green lung not too far from the Royal Palace – the Zoo Aquarium is located within the city limits and on public transportation lines. The animals are mostly kept separate from the public by moats filled with water (and some that are not). There are more than 500 different species of animals who call the zoo home, including many animals native to the Iberian peninsula. The Zoo is making efforts at conservation to build populations of animals like the Iberian Lynx and Iberian Hawk.

  • Hours of operation: Weekdays 11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., weeeknds until 7:00 p.m. Longer hours may apply seasonally and on local holidays.
  • Ticketing: At the ticket office, but far cheaper online and prices vary by day; Adults and children 8+ are 19,90€, kids 3-7 are 16,95€ children under 3 are free. Check online for promotions and discount days.

If you’re willing to go a bit further afield, you can also check out Faunia (Avenida de las Comunidades, 28, M: Valdebernardo, L9) in the Vicálvaro neighborhood to the south. This could be an option if your kids are various ages, and kids will pay by height but are comparable to the Zoo Aquarium.

Eat chocolate con churros at Chocolatería San Ginés (Pasadizo de San Ginés, 5. M: Sol (L!, L2, L3) or Ópera (L2)

best churros in Seville

What kid can say no to fried dough? San Ginés is a Madrid institution that is open around the clock and serves up golden,crispy churros to be dunked in warm, liquid chocolate. This is one of the few places to get both porras or churros, and the former is typical breakfast fare for a madrileño.

If you’re staying outside of the Gran Vía area, simply follow the smell to your nearest churrería to take away. You typically order by the number of units that you want, so it’s a good way to practice your números. You can also get San Ginés on food delivery apps, but where’s the fun in that?

  • Hours of operation: Open 24 hours
  • Cost: A ración (6 churros or 2 porras) will run you 5,20€.

Visit Ratoncito Perez’s house (Calle del Arenal, 8. M: Sol (L1, L2, L3 and Cercanías trains)

Book online and book early! The spots fill up fast – even on weekdays.

  • Hours of operation: Weekdays from 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 4:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. Weekends and holidays 10:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.
  • Cost: 7€ per person. Book via whatsapp.
  • Note: ages 3+

Explore Madrid’s sozens of parks and gardens

 

You’ll surely know El Retiro, Madrid’s mythical green lung in the neighborhood of the same name. Check out the hidden playgrounds and shaded spots for picnics, or grab a bench near the arifical lake for people-watching. But don’t stop there – small pockets of green can be found everywhere, and you’re sure to find a spot to sit and have a coffee or glass of wine while your kids run themselves ragged. (M:

My kids always make a stop a the recently renovated Plaza de España (M: Plaza de España, L3). Think rope swings, towers to climb and places to hide for an epic game of Hide and Seek. Another great space for families is Madrid Río, home to biking trails, a splash pad for summer visits and 17 playgrounds scattered along the 7km park and a weekend puppet show near the obelisque (M: Marqués de Vadillo, L5, or Puerta del Ángel, L6).

 

Top things to do in Madrid for kids ages 5-10

My kids (6 and 8 year old boys) are at the perfect age to enjoy Madrid: still small enough to enjoy parks and playgrounds but now mature enough for cultural exhibits and workshops at museums and cultural centers. We make it a point to visit something new every time we go to Madrid – and we still have endless ideas!

Visit the Natural Science Museum (Calle José Abascal, 2. M: Gregorio Marañón, L7 and L10)

Natural History Museum

A great destination for children and adults alike, given Spain’s long history. Kids are bound to enjoy all of the dinosaur fossils, while parents tend to take in the extinct animal specimens – there are 6,000! There are three separate zones to choose from and a plethora of activities that are geared specifically toward children. Parents can bring their little ones to educational workshops and have some free time to enjoy the remainder of the museum – we lived nearby when my eldest child was a toddler, and the museum was one of our favorite rainy day activities.

  • Hours of operation: Monday to Friday 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Weekends and holidays, 10:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.
  • Cost: General admission is 7€, kids 4-16 are half price.
  • Note: Museum is closed Mondays. If you need another rainy day activity, the Museo Geominero is a 10-minute walk up Calle Rios Rosas.

Museo del Ferrocaril and Metro de Madrid museums

Anyone else’s kids obsessed with anything that moves? Exactly.

Touristic Train of Riotinto Huelva

Kids from 3+ will love the various museums sprinkled around the city that speak of Madrid’s railway prowess and its incredible subway system. Start at the Museo del Ferrocaril (Paseo de las Delicias, 61. M: Delicias, L3,  or Palos de la Frontera, L3). There’s a small museum, but the true highlight is the covered Delicias station, home to half a dozen locomotives that speak to Spain’s rail history. Kids can climb aboard a few of them!

  • Hours of operation: Times vary by season. From October to May, the museum is open weekdays from 9:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m., Saturdays from 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m, and Sundays from 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. In the summer, daily from 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.
  • Cost: In situ or online. 7€ adults, 4€ for kids; under 3 are free.
  • Pro tip: If you visit the Mercado de Motores artisan market on the second Sunday of the month, you can enter the train pavillion at the Ferrocarril Museum for free!

The Metro de Madrid also hosts a few small museums, and they’re a treat – and free! Check out the Pácifico (L1) engine shed to see old trains or marvel at its modernist lobby, take a guided tour of the “ghost” station of Chamberí (must reserve in advance; My: Iglessia, L1) or check out the Metro’s history museum in the Chamartín station (L1, L10). Kids can grab a Metro passport in any of the aforementioned stations and mark off the sites as they go before getting a reward, redeemable at the Ópera, Sol or Plaza de Castilla Metro Stores.

Museo Nacional de Arqueología (Calle de Serrano, 13. M: Colón, L4, Retiro, L2 or Serrano, L4)

Trace the history of humanity and civilization over three floors at Spain’s recently renovated National Archaeology Museum. My 3rd grade spent three hours exploring the expansive museum, home to some of Spain’s most treasured artifacts. My six year old enjoyed the hominids, mummies and a bag of potato chips at the museum café.

  • Hours of operation: Open Monday-Wednesday from 9:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. and 5:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 9:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.
  • Cost: 3€ adults, free for children. You can buy right on site upon arrival or online.
  • Pro tip: check out the museum bookstore for historically-focused books and games for kids!

Mercado de la Cebada (Plaza de la Cebada, s/n. Metro: La Latina, L5).

Fruit stands at the Mercado de Triana food market

A staple of the La Latina area, this market is a delight for kids. Stalls hocking products from mundane to wacky as well as indoor eating areas make it a great stop for nibbles. There are always local kids running around the market or the playground right in front, and it’s one of my preferred alternatives to the touristy Mercado de San Miguel.

  • Hours of operation: Open Monday-Wednesday from 9:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. and 5:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 9:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.
  • Cost: only what you consume.

Circo Price (Ronda de Atocha, 35. M: Embajadores, L3, or Atocha, L1 and all Cercanías lines)

Forget the animal circuses: Circo Price is the long-runnign favorite of madrileños, bringing acrobatics to a small, intimate theatre experience. You can also catch classes and workshops here – perfect for literally everyone in your family.

For shows, prices and more, check their website.

Check out the programming at Cuarta Pared, Teatro Sanpol and other children’s theaters

Madrid’s multitude of children’s theaters provide a wonderful entertainment for the child who enjoys plays and musicals – and the city is famous for theatre. The shows are typically put on during weekend mornings and tickets cost far less than most adult activities. Teatro del Arte and La Escalera de Jacob also stage their own shows for children and you’ll have a wide range of magic shows, funny stories and puppet based performances to select from! You can find shows and workshops on Teatro a Teatro‘s interactive guide.

Bonus ideas: the observation deck at the Corte Inglés Gourmet Experience or the Torre de Moncloa, rotating exhibits at CaixaForum, visiting the endless cominc book and vintage stores in Malasaña.

 

Top things to do in Madrid for kids ages 10 and up (including the kid at heart!)

Parque Warner (Cercanías C-3 to Pinto and bus 413 to the park)

What’s a vacation without an amusement park? Parque Warner is a wonderful destination for the child who loves cartoons, as all of their favorite Looney Tunes characters will be roaming around and signing autographs. If your kid is more of daredevil type, they will have six different roller coasters to choose from. Water rides are available too, and of course, there are a multitude of gift shops. Theaters and workshops provide visitors with a number of different shows to choose from as well. The park is located 25 kilometers south of Madrid and package deals are the best way to save money.

  • Hours of operation: vary by season.
  • Cost: Always book online, when possible, as you can save up to 50%. General admission (140cm and up) is 61.90€, Junior (100-140cm) is 32,90€ and kids under 100cm tall are free.
  • Tip: check local discount sites as well as PW’s web for deals and discounts. If you’re coming from out of town, there are stellar deals on accommodations and food if you book.

Check out the entertainment options at Xanadu Mall (Autovía A-5, salida 22, Arroyomolinos)

If you’ve got a car or are willing to go a bit out of your way, the Xanadu mall boasts tons of things to keep older kids busy. Think a small skill hill, endless Spanish fashion brands, food court, a bowling alley and even a small aquarium. Xanadu is about 25 minutes south of Madrid on the A5 highway.

  • Hours of operation:
  • Cost: varies depending on your activities.

OXO Videogame Museum (Plaza del Callao, Postigo de San Martín, 8. M: Callao, L3 and L5)

My kids moved from moving things (and their bodies) to being video game crazed really quickly. I’m excited to take them to OXO, a video game museum/arcade right off Gran Vía. From old school machines that we played in pizza parlors back in the 90s to endless Legos and temporary exhibits and workshops, I’m sure I won’t be able to get them out.

  • Hours of operation: Open daily from  11:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.
  • Cost: General admission is 21€, kids 5-13 are 16€, and family packs (2 adults + 2 kids) are 17.50€ a person. Prior reservation recommended.

Alternately, you could consider board game cafés like La Manuela in Malasaña (C/ San Vicente Ferrer, 29) or Replay Boardgame Café (C/ de la Ribera de Curtidores, 26, Local 3).

Walk in the footsteps of Real Madrid giants at the Santiago Bernabeu Tour (entrance is at Calle Concha Espina, s/n, M: Santiago Bernabeu, L10)

attending a spanish soccer match real betis

Football fans – madrista or not – will enjoy the recently renovated Santiago Bernabeu stadium tour, home to Madrid Fútbol Club. You’ll see spaces where Spanish soccer legends have trained, learn about the history of one of Spain’s most successful clubs and view the endless accolades. It can’t be missed for fans!

  • Hours of operation:
  • Cost: From 35€ online. You can also bundle experiences, like a guided tour or a game.
  • Tip: Do check online for game days, as some areas of the tour may be off-limits to visitors.

I, personally, enjoyed seeing Taylor Swift at Bernabeu but will stick to my hometown arena in Seville!

Take selfies at IKONO space (Calle de Sánchez Bustillo, 7. M: Estación del Arte, L1) or Sweet Space (Calle de Serrano, 61. M: Núñez de Balboa, L5, L9 or Rubén Darío, L5)

Your selfie-loving teen will have a blast at these spaces, designed for photos and goofing off.

IKONO:

  • Hours of Operation: Daily from 10:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.
  • Cost: from 15€ and more expensive on the weekend. Get your tickets online.

Sweet Space

  • Hours of Operation: Daily from 11:00 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. and 3:30 p.m. to 8:00 p.m.
  • Cost: from 15€ and up for adults, 12€ for kids 4-12. Free for children up to 3. Get tickets here.
 

Where to eat with kids in Madrid: some of our favorite places

food offerings at mercado lonja del barranco sevilla

My kids know that going to Madrid to visit family means plenty of eating out, and they often get to choose where. Madrid has every cuisine you can imagine, plus plenty fo fast food options. If your kids are adventurous, you can really go nuts here: grilled pig ear, squid sandwiches or sheep brain. Or, stick to tortilla, croquetas and montaditos de lomo, because hangry kids are grumpy travelers.

  • VIPS is always a big hit because their menu is extensive and rotates – it almost feels like a sleeker American diner. Apart from standard fare like burgers and sandwiches, you can usually get a half slab of ribs before a stack of pancakes or milkshake. Some VIPS also have a small kid’s corner with some games, and they pass out crayons and some coloring papers with the kids menu. Service can be slow and I find most VIPS to be dead zones for cell signal, so don’t expect to park the kids in front of a screen here. Closet to the center is at Puerta del Sol 3, or Calle Alcalá, 23, but you can find them around the city.
  • Bar Loreto (Calle Hartzenbush, M: San Bernardo, L2, or Quevedo, L1, L4) is a frequent stop, too, as it’s within walking distance of our home base in Malasaña. While it’s not extremely kid friendly, it’s on a quiet street off of Fuencarral, and each drink comes with a montruous plate of food. They serve a lot of kid-friendly bites, and their menú del día is heaping and cheap.
  • My kids are big croquetas fans, and Bodegas Rosell (Atocha / Estación del Arte, L1, or Palos de La Frontera, L3) is right around the corner from Uncle Alvarito’s house and the Puerta de Atocha train station. They’re famous for their croquetas, so don’t skip it if you’ve got a train right around lunch or dinner time!

Don’t skip plaza life, either! One of Spain’s national treasures is the park-bar combo. Local families snag a table at an outdoor eatery near a playground so that kids are entertained and parents can actually eat their food warm. We pop down to Plaza Dos de Mayo (M: Fuencarral, L1 and L10) and camp out at Madriz for some apertivos, but there are two pizza places anchoring the expansive square, as well as a few other places to nip in for a bite. Come early – these are prime real estate! Other ideas are Plaza de Olavide (M: Iglesia, L1), where restaurants ring a spacious plaza with fountains and playgrounds, or Plaza de Santa Ana (M: Sol, L1, L2, L3 and Cercanías trains) near Puerta del Sol.

Five Things to do in

What do you do with kids in Madrid?

If you liked this post, you can consider purchasing it on GPSMyCity, a GPS-enabled tour guide that’s available offline. Your euros go right back to helping this site stay up and running! I’ve also got a post on what to do with kids in Seville.

13 Free (or ¡Casi!) Things to Do in Seville

Free is not a word synonymous with Seville. But cheap is. Updated October 2025

While the city won’t burn a hole in your pocket with its reasonable prices for accommodation, food and entertainment (not to mention low cost of living), Seville still has a load of free or low-cost activities while visiting the metropolis where flamenco echoes through alleyways and bullfighters are carried out of the rings on the shoulders of revelers. And believe me when I say that there are plenty of things to do in Seville, unlike most Spanish cities where a few museums are sprinkled in between historic buildings. If you’re pinching euros, try these ideas:

Get lost in the city’s old quarters

city streets seville

It’s believed that Seville has the largest old city center in Europe, and its Roman, Visigoth and Moorish roots mean that everything in the district is cramped, chaotic and easy to get turned around in. Your map will do you little good, so it’s better to just toss it in your bag and wander (and that goes for your maps app!).

Catch a free flamenco show

Even before UNESCO declared flamenco – a gypsy art said to have taken on its modern form in Seville – an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, flamenco has been infused into the lives of sevillanos and its visitors. Peñas flamencas, small bars dedicated to artists of years past, often put on free or discounted shows in small, dark locales, the guitar wailing as a dark­haired gypsy taps and claps her way across the stage.

Flamenco show in Seville

Sadly, a number of free flamenco tabernas closed during COVID. Yet, la Carbonería, Seville’s landmark flamenco joint, makes it into every guidebook for good reason: shows are free and nightly at 10:30 or 11:00 p.m. Still, the popularity of La Carbonería and its location in the heart of downtown means that the place is packed, the drinks are expensive and the dancers just sub­par (C/Levies, 18).

 

Visit museums on their free days

Espacio Santa Clara Fountain Seville

Seville’s historical sites have been climbing in prices as the city fields more tourists. Stop by the tourism office in Plaza Virgen de los Reyes for a free guide to the reduced price or free days for both the big-ticket sites and offbeat museums. Your money should be going to tapas anyway.

Torre del Oro Monday all day
Alcázar Palace and Gardens Monday afternoon
Contemporary Art Museum Tuesday to Friday afternoons after 17h; all day Saturday
Plaza de España Currently free
Cathedral and Giralda Sunday afternoon and during Mass
Archivo de Indias Free daily with appointment
Casa de Pilatos Free Wednesday afternoon with EU ID card
Fine Arts Museum, Military Museum, Castillo de San Jorge Free daily

EU citizens have their entrance to Itálica, a Roman settlement outside the city, free every day. And if you’re a student under 26 with a valid ID card or carnet joven, you can cash in on discounted rates or free entrance at the Alcázar, Cathedral, Archaeological Museum and Arts and Customs Museum. This is an especially good tactic if you visit in the summer – free A/C!

Lounge in one of the city’s expansive parks

Jardines del Generalife Granada

From María Luisa to Alamillo to the banks of the Guadalquivir, Seville’s parks are a defense against the hot summers and a cheap way to relax. Grab a hammock or blanket, bring a picnic lunch for a cheap dining option, or come prepared for an afternoon siesta. Bonus points if you bring a litrona of beer for a botellón!

Shop at a local’s market

Fruit stands at the Mercado de Triana food market

Nowhere in Seville can you witness the way its people live than in its local markets. Old ladies jab you with their elbows to get through the fruit stand while your jaw drops with the weird cuts of animals, the array of fish and the mounds of spices sold at each. Most markets are open Monday – Saturday from 8 a.m. until 2 p.m. Likewise, there is a fine arts fair just in front of the Fine Arts Museum every Sunday morning, weather permitting.

One of my favorites is Bar El Mercado in my local San Gonzalo market (Plaza San Martín de Porres in Triana). Curro’s stall is gritty and maybe not the most sanitary, but he’ll give you a botellín of cold beer and a pincho or tortilla for 3€. His breakfasts are legendary, too, and worth the hike.

Wander the Exposition fairgrounds Seville, for two brief periods in its long history, had the world’s attention when it hosted the Iberoamerican Festival in 1929 and again in 1992. Large portions of the city were dedicated to these projects.

Plaza de España Sevilla In 1929, Seville became home to the Iberoamerican Fair, and event that brought together Latin-and South American countries in order to strengthen ties, most of which were Spanish colonies. Sitting at the southern end of the historic quarter, each country designed its own pabellón, or exhibition hall, crowned by the Plaza de España. All sites are free to view, though some aren’t open to the public or are used as government buildings. There’s a free military museum hidden in the alcoves that had my kids raptured for a few hours.

On the opposite side of the city in the Isla de la Cartuja, Spain again hosted an exposition to welcome the 21 st century with over 100 countries in attendance. Preparations for the site included building several new bridges to span the Guadalquivir River and a monorail, and the site is reputed to be from where Columbus left for his journey to America. While the pavillions it remains largely abandoned or offices for private companies, the expansive area is worth a visit, and you can visit the stunning Pabellón de Marruecos.

Sunshine on the Pabellon de Marruecos

Visit San Fernando Cemetery

While the idea of visiting a cemetery is a bit disconcerting to everyone but me, visiting Seville’s city cemetery is worth the hike for its beauty and peaceful respite from a bustling city. Inaugurated in 1852, the city’s most illustrious names have been lain to rest here, including bullfighters like Paquirri and flamenco singers, war heroes and criminals. The cemetery is open during daylight hours and on holidays, so it’s common to see burials and mourning loved ones, so silence and no photography is enforced. Take bus 10 from Ponce de León until you see the cemetery (1,40€/trip).

Discover the city’s Roman roots

Seville is a city that has been conquered, reconquered and conquered again, creating a matrix of architectural and artistic legacy. Perhaps the Roman roots of the city are best preserved, as city decrees outlaws the destruction of ruins or artifacts. Such objects can be seen in the archaeological museum of María Luisa Park (slated to reopen in 2027), but you can discover some of them on your own.

Where to see Roman ruins in Seville

The corner of Calle Mármoles and Calle Abades houses columns of a temple; in Plaza de la Pescadería, believed to be at the crux of the old Roman streets, giant marble blocks preserve the ruins of a fish monger’s; and in Plaza de la Encarnación, visit gorgeous mosaics and old city walls that lie underneath the square (2€ for non­-EU citizens, or free with a 16€ entrance to the Setas). There are also ruins of a Roman aqueduct just outside the city center on Luis Montoto.

Get holy at church

Plaza del Salvador Sevilla

Seville is home to the most renowned Holy Week celebrations in Spain, a somber week that transforms the last days of Jesus Christ into life­sized floats that cramp the city center. While it’s free to watch, you can visit the floats the other 51 weeks of the year and relish in the city’s devotion at most churches and chapels. Only the Cathedral, Santa Ana, San Luis de los Frances and San Salvador cost money, so even just popping in for the relief from the hot sun is worthwhile. Don’t miss the venerable Macarena, or the teeny chapels under the Postigo Arch or the end of the Puente de Triana.

Enjoy views of the city center from Triana

view of Triana and the Guadalquivir from Puente de Triana

On the opposite side of the city center sits Triana, the gypsy barrio seeped in lore and full of great bars and eateries. Watching the lights of the city go on from the Triana bridge or along Calle Betis affords tremendous views of the city. Check out my guide to spending an afternoon in Triana, on my side of the río and the barrio I get to call home.

Watch a Novillada

bullfighting in Seville Spain

If you’re brave enought to see a bullfight, Seville’s Maestranza ring is a superb place to do so. While this famed plaza de toros hosts some of the big names in bullfighting, the late May and early June novilladas bring in young bullfighters looking to make a name for themselves. Seats in the sun are typically under 15€. Schedule available on the ring’s official website.

Browse the El Jueves market for Spanish kitsch

bullfighter jackets El Jueves Market Sevilla

Believed to be one of the longest-running flea markets in Spain, Calle Feria in the Macarena district hosts a large mercadillo each Thursday morning. Vendors hock everything from recuerdos from the ’92 Expo to bullfighting suits. Haggling is OK, but browsing is the way to go.

Other free markets on Sundays include numismatics in the beautiful Plaza del Cabildo, in the shadow of the Cathedral, and the fine arts market in Plaza del Museo.

…¡y a comer! The Room Sevilla tapas

Like Granada, Seville’s tapas scene is a must-do when visiting, and visiting the free sites means you’ll work up an appetite. The city has greatly expanded its offerings – there’s even hot pot – but prices have gone up. Ten years ago, two adults could get a bottle of wine and a few plates of food for 20€, but you’re looking at 20€ a head in most places worth mentioning.

Budget hunters tend to chow down at Taberna Los Coloniales (C/Cristo de Brugos, 19) for big plates at a low cost. Bodega Las Columnas (C/ de Rodrigo Caro, 1) is another cheap option with plenty of charm, just out of the shadow of the Giralda. With beer at 1,10€ and tapas as low as 2,20€, you can still fill up without a huge bill. You’ll also find budget options around the Alameda, squeezed in between fancier fusion restaurants. If you’re going to spend your money anywhere, be it on food and drink!

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Did I miss any other cheap or free things to do in Seville?

How to Spend an Afternoon in Triana

Most people leave Triana off of their Seville itinerary – there isn’t much by way of museums or grandiose churches, and it’s across the Guadalquivir from the city’s major draws. But what the historic neighborhood lacks in monuments, it more than makes up for in feeling.

Triana is a barrio that’s equal parts sevillano, capillita and gitano.

Puente de Triana Seville

While most opt to stay in the city center, Triana is only a stone’s throw from the Giralda and Plaza de España, commanding the western bank of the river that slices the city in two. And you can feel it – Triana seems like a world away, despite being connected by bus and subway to every part of Seville.

Consder an aparthotel like the comfortable and spacious ones offered by Pierre&Vacances Sevilla, right in the heart of Triana on Pagés del Coro, on your next Seville holiday. You’ll wake up to the sound of church bells from the adjacent San Jacinto church and be able to pop down to El Pulido for a tostada as long as your forearm.

pierre et vacances

Historically speaking, Triana was a poor, working class neighborhood of fisherman, bullfighters and gypsies and one of the seats of the Holy Inquisition, headquartered at the Castillo San Jorge on the riverbank. Today, it’s a neighborhood known for its fiercely trianero residents, flamenco culture and tile production, and is home to several well-known bars and eateries.

I may be biased, but it’s my favorite part of the city, and one whose streets I walk every day as a resident of the 41010. Many days, there’s no need to even cross the Puente Isabel II into town.

Screen Shot 2016-01-05 at 10.09.32 AM

If you have a free afternoon, don’t miss Triana’s charm.

12pm – Start off with food

Start by crossing the Puente Isabel II over the Guadalquivir river, the official entrance into the República Independiente de Triana. The bridge was the city’s first, replacing a pontoon bridge in 1854 and built by an Eiffel disciple.

Capilla del Carmen Triana Anibal Gonzalez

It’s easily my favorite monument and the nearly official symbol of the neighborhood. At the western end, you’ll find the minuscule Capilla de Carmen, which was built by famous sevillano architect Aníbal González (you’d recognize him from the Plaza de España) in the early 20th Century.

Your first stop in 41010 should be the newly renovated Mercado de Triana. Still very much a local’s market, fruit and vegetable vendors, fish mongers, butchers and specialty producers hock their wares just steps from the river. The market was built atop the ruins of the Castillo de San Jorge, visible in the adjacent museum and even in the walls of the mercado (C/San Jorge, 6).

Mercado de Triana typical market

If you can’t stick around all night, there’s a small flamenco theatre flanking the western edge of the market with shows at noon on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday.

1pm – Work up an appetite

Triana has the privilege being where the sun chooses to sleep nightly, as the famous song goes, and it lingers over the district all afternoon long. Retreat back to the Puente Isabel II and to the yellow bar that sits opposite the Carmen chapel. Trianeros know that the food at El Faro de Triana isn’t anything special, but the views from the terrace or even the steps leading down to Calle Betis get the most sun midday. Order a cervecita and take it outside if it’s a nice day (Plaza del Altozano, 1C).

El Faro de Triana bar in Seville

Continue walking down Calle Betis, the Roman name for the river, away from the bridge and towards the Torre del Oro. The thoroughfare is packed with bars and restaurants, though you should steer clear of them for now and walk on the other side of the road so as to avoid hawkers while drinking in the view across the river to the bullring, opera house and the Torre del Oro itself.

2pm – A comer!

Though 2pm is still a little early for me, it’s time to tapear, or eat, your way through Triana’s tapas bars. At the southern end of Calle Betis, stop at La Primera del Puente, a nondescript tapas bar lined with tiles and grilling fish over a hot skillet, and order just one thing: patatas bravas and a glass of Cruzcampo. In eight years, I’ve tried countless dishes of fried potatoes with a spicy red sauce, and La Primera has some of the best (even if their barman makes fun of my accent constantly (C/ Betis, 66).

Tapa of salmorejo

Backtrack to Calle Troya and head away from the river, then take the first right onto Calle Pureza. I photographed a couple’s first look photos on this street because of its colorful houses and ornate doorways, and it’s home to both Triana’s first church, Santa Ana, as well as several watering holes (C/ Vázquez de Leca, s/n).

If Santa Ana is open, it’s worth a quick peek – commissioned in 1266 (yep, 750 years ago!), Santa Ana is known for its mudéjar hallmarks and Baroque facelift after the Lisbon earthquake of 1755, whose aftershocks were felt in Sevilla.

Just in front of the north facing door is Bar Santa Ana, a typical tavern featuring local dishes, like espinacas con garbanzos, bull tail and small grilled sandwiches. This is the bar I bring visitors to when I want to tell them about Holy Week, as paraphernalia of weeping Virgins and Bloody Christs adorn the walls. This is the sort of bar where locals have been locals since the 50s and where waiters still write your bill in chalk on the bar (C/ Pureza, 82).

Tapa of Tortilla Española

You can pop into the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Esperanza de Triana just down the road, a stark white chapel that stands out amid salmon, cornflower and albero shaded homes and palaces (C/ Pureza, 53).

A little bit further up the road in La Anigua Abacería, a cozy, dimly lit cold cuts bar whose menu is long and has quite a few surprises. There are plenty of good vegetarian options here, too, and gobs of wines to try (C/ Pureza, 12).

Once you’ve had your fill, the serpentine calles and callejones of this part of Triana are good for walking off the calories – as well as staving off the siesta.

5pm – Explore Triana’s ceramic production

Around the corner of Calle Callao is Cerámica Santa Ana and the Centro Cerámica de Triana. The neighborhood has a long tradition of ceramics production and boasts several small shops that still make azulejos in the ancient way, though the clay no longer comes from the riverbanks. Hand-painted ceramic bowls, pitchers and magnets are my go-to souvenirs and even made them a prominent part of my wedding decoration, and Plaza de España’s elaborate tile depictions of Spain’s 50 provinces were made in factories here (C/ San Jorge, 31).

Where to buy Ceramics in Triana, Seville

If you’re not looking for souvenirs, poke around the Centro Cerámica de Triana‘s small museum, one of the city’s newest. Though the kilns are no longer operable, they can be found in the museum, which also explains traditional techniques in English and Spanish. Plan around three-quarters of an hour (C/ Antillano Campos, 14).

6pm – Grab merienda and an afternoon drink

Head back to Calle Pureza and straight to Manu Jara Dulcería, a pastry shop owned by a French chef of the same name (and did I mention his Michellin stars?). While his brand of desserts, MasQuePostres, aren’t made on-site, they’re fresh, delectable and the shop itself a treat (C/ Pureza, 5).

Manu Jara Dulceria Sevilla

Sevillanos usually take their sweet afternoon snack, called a merienda, with a coffee or tea, then follow it up with an adult beverage. Around the corner, back on Calle Betis, sits La Tertulia, a watering hole that plays off of the famous political and social discussion groups of the turn of the century. Avoid heading inside for anything more than ordering if you can – the bar smells like dirty pipes and mold – and grab a seat along the bench with your mojito. You’ll be rewarded with the same views you had before lunch, just this time as night falls and the Triana bridge lights up (C/ Betis, 13).

9:00pm – Dinnertime again!

Triana is known as one of the liveliest neighborhoods in the city, and as night falls, bars and restaurants again fill with patrons. If you’re not hungry just yet, have a beer at Cervecería La Grande back on San Jacinto (C/ San Jacinto, 39).

Back when the Novio and I started dating, we’d have a routine called the ruta trianera, in which we’d have a few beers at La Grande before popping around to different bars in the area for dinner. Begin at Bar Casa Diego on Alferería (5). Don’t expect an English menu here; order a heaping media ración of pollo frito, friend chicken, and one of croquetas de puerros, or leek croquettes. Local lore states that Diego’s wife grew so tired of making béchamel and rolling croquetas for hungry clientele that she up and quit in the middle of a shift!

Yes, they’re that good.

champiñones mushrooms at Las Golondrinas

Walk around the corner on Antillano Campos to Las Golondrinas I, a Triana institution and at the top of my list. The micro kitchen produces just a few dishes, and tapas are only available at the crowded bar. Ask Pepe for a glass of house wine and a tapa of punta de solomillo, a piping hot pork loin sandwiches, and champiñones, sautéed mushrooms crowned with mint sauce (C/ Antillano Campos, 26).

If you’re still hungry, Paco España has big plates of food to split, most notably their open-faced sandwiches, called panes (C/ Alfarería, 18).

11pm – Take in a flamenco show

Flamenco show in Seville

Though I’m not a huge fan of the boisterous woman whose name and large presence give Casa Anselma her name, the flamenco bar is hugely popular with locals and tourists. Passing down Pagés del Coro, you’d never expect to find a bar behind the aluminum gates at the corner of Antillano Campos (49), but between 11 and midnight, Anselma opens her bar to patrons for impromptu flamenco shows.

Just be sure to count your change – though there’s no cover charge, drinks are twice as pricey here.

Bonus: looking for different food and drink options?

There is no shortage of good restaurants in this part of town, from bars that resemble a closet to restaurants that have garnered top foodie prizes.

Pura Tasca – One of Triana’s first gastrobars was built into what was once a butane tank distributor. The decoration evokes a storage space, but the rotating menu and top-notch wine list are always on (C/ Numancia, 5).

Bar Juan Carlos – Cheese and craft beer, and little else, the small bar is usually packed in the evenings. You can order samplers, cheese skewers and fondue, and there’s a beer of the month selection on offer (C/ Febo, 6).

Plaza del Altozano Seville

La Fábula – People spoke so often of La Fábula that even the Novio, a creature of habit, wanted to try it. Spanish favorites with a twist are the hallmark of the pub, which bills itself as a gastrobar and has a few local craft beers on offer (Ronda de Triana, 31).

Casa Ruperto – known to locals as Los Pajaritos for its signature dish, this typical cervecería roasts quails on a spit. They’re also famous for their snails in tomato sauce (cabrillas) (Avda. Santa Cecilia, 2).

Jaylu – I’ve never eaten at this renowned seafood restaurant, but it’s purportedly one of the city’s best (López de Gomara, 19).

Sala El Cachorro – Started as a playhouse, the eclectic space soon morphed into a cafetería and bar. Grab a slice of carrot cake and a coffee and sit in the outdoor patio, full of plants and sculptures (C/ Procurador, 19).

Hot to Spend an Afternoon in

As always, be sure to check opening times and dates. You can reach Triana by metro (M: Plaza de Cuba and Parque de los Príncipes) or bus (5, 6, 40, 43, C1, C2), or simply walk from the city center. This post contains an affiliate link to Devour Tours’ wonderful Tapas Like a Local – Triana tour, which I have had the pleasure of walking! You can click at no extra cost to you.

Have you ever spent time in Triana? What are your favorite places to eat, drink and visit?

Five Things You Should Know About Málaga

Eight years ago, I welcomed my parents to Spain for the first time. They arrived to Málaga via bus after several cancelled flights and a mad scramble to get them from Heathrow to Andalucía before Christmas Eve. Once they finally arrived, jet lagged, smelly and not amused with my cry of ‘Bienvenidos a España!’ we grabbed our rental car and beelined out of the Costa del Sol’s capital and didn’t return.

We missed out on the opportunity to explore what is becoming a cultural capital and a city that embodies cool, and I have yet to really get to know more than Málaga’s airport.

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Paolo Trabattoni via Creative Commons

Many visitors to the golden shores of Spain’s Costa del Sol choose to bypass Málaga in favor of the nearby beach resorts. It’s a shame – this vibrant city offers a great selection of cultural sights and historic gems, plus great dining options, all on the Mediterranean Coast. If you’re visiting for the first time, you may be surprised by these five facts about one of Spain’s up-and-coming cities.

Picasso’s Mark on the City

Arguably the most influential artist of the twentieth century, Picasso remains one of Malaga’s most renowned citizens. Nestled in the heart of the city’s historic center, visitors can explore the artist’s birthplace and family home during his formative years.

An exhibition displays artifacts from his childhood and personal mementos from his family. From here, art fanatics can visit the Picasso Museum located in the 16th century, Buenavista Palace. Showcasing over two hundred and thirty pieces, it’s a one-of-a-kind opportunity to marvel at some of Picasso’s best works. Plus, it’s just a stumble from great tapas joints (and we stayed at an awesome AirBnB nearby for my despedida de soltera!).

Feria de Málaga

I mean, it’s no Feria de Sevilla, but Málaga’s beachside feria is allegedly just as much fun (and without all of the pomp). The annual fair takes place in August and was established to commemorate the Catholic reconquest of the city in 1487. The weeklong celebration is the time to enjoy authentic Andalusian cuisine, marvel at the trajes de gitanas and take part in a sevillanas dance if you’re fueled by rebujito.

La Feria en Crisis

And it’s ok to go in street clothes – this fair is far more low-key than Seville’s, so you don’t have to put on the airs or sneak your way in to a private tent.

Antonio Banderas and his Devotion

Picasso isn’t the only famous malagueño: another notable native is Hollywood A-lister, Antonio Banderas. Born in 1960, the famous actor began his studies at the College of Dramatic Art in Malaga. Although he no longer resides in Spain, Banderas does return every year to celebrate the Holy Week festivities.

Taking place from Palm Sunday through to Easter Sunday, Banderas joins in several of the processions as a costalero, or a brother charged with carrying the heavy floats through the streets of the city.

Biznagas Malagueñas

Spend a short time in Malaga and you’re sure to come across the handcrafted flowers, Biznagas Malagueñas. Traditional to the region, these are often sold by street vendors, known as biznagueros who are often dressed in an outfit comprising of a white shirt and red waistband.

The floral creations are famed for their sweet smelling scent, usually made with a combination of dried thistle and freshly picked jasmine. Many people are unaware that they have a secondary purpose – they’re also said to repel mosquitoes.

An endless summer

It may come as no surprise that the capital of Spain’s Costa Del Sol receives some of the best weather in Europe, and that it’s not limited to the summer months. With roughly 300 days of sunshine every year, this destination is perfect for a sun worshiper’s fall getaway. The winter also stays pleasantly warm with very few days of rain and highs reaching an impressive 20 °C. The vitamin C alone is worth it.

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Laura Flores used under the Creative Commons

With so many affordable flights to Malaga, there’s never been a better time to explore this beautiful city. From the winding streets and traditional tapas restaurants,  lively nightlife and 

Read more about Málaga: Cooking in the Malagueño Countryside // Ronda, the White Village Capital // Walking the Caminito del Rey near Málaga // Málaga’s El Tintero Restaurant

FIVE THINGS

I need a weekend escape to Málaga – what should I see, do and eat?

Five Myths About Seville, Debunked

“I’ll just stop talking before I ruin the Feria de Sevilla for you,” Dan remarked, noticing that I’d stuck my fingers in my ears. A history and archaeology professor at one of the city’s universities, he’d already struck down a number of things I’d known to be true about my adopted city.

5 Myths about Seville

In a city as mythical as Seville, I’ve become privy to tall tales and lore that have only grown to be larger-than-life legends in the Hispalense. But Dan’s early morning route with Context Travel astonished me with how many things I’d had wrong. Winding through the streets of Santa Cruz and the Arenal and speaking about the centuries that shaped modern Spain and the New World, I had to shut my mouth and just listen (always hard on a tour when you know so many of the city’s secrets!):

Gazpacho was invented by the Moors

Dishes with a legend are rife in Spain, and Seville’s claims to gazpacho are just as common. Gazpacho is a cold, tomato-based soup that pops up on menus as both a dish and a garnish. It’s also about the only Spanish dish I’ve mastered. While the word gazpacho is of Arabic origin, and they commonly ate a dish of bread, garlic and olive oil, the dish as we know it today is definitely is not of Moorish invention.

gazpacho andaluza in spain

It a simple question of history: The Moors conquered the Iberian Penninsula over centuries, beginning in 711. The last were expelled in 1492 from Granada, the same year that the Catholic Kings sent a young dreamer, Christopher Columbus, to find a passage to India. Tomatoes come from the Americas, so the very earliest they would have appeared in Spain was the late 15th Century. While Moors lingered in Spain for centuries, the introduction of vinegar, tomatoes and cucumber would come much later.

Seville is flat

Columbus may have been onto something else: for all of the boasting I do about how perfect Seville is for biking and walking, the city was built in Roman times around a series of hills. Little remains of the Roman past within the city limits, save a few columns on Calle Mármoles, the crumbling aqueduct that once carried water from Carmona, and the recovered mosaics and fish paste factory in the Antiquarium underneath Plaza de la Encarnación. If you want to see ruins, head to nearby Itálica or Carmona, or even two hours north to Mérida.

Context history tours in Seville Spain

Roman Seville – then called Hispalis – had five major hills, with strategically built fortresses and temples built atop them. Laid out in a cross fashion, the major thoroughfares, called Cardus Maximus and Decumanus Maximus, and likened, to the main arteries of the human body, lead to a crossing near Plaza de la Alfalfa. This site was likely home to the forum, and Plaza del Salvador excavations have led archaeologists to believe the the curia and basilica once stood here. Indeed, the street leading from the east-west axis is the city’s one “hill,” dubbed Cuesta del Rosario, or Rosary Hill.

Where to see Roman ruins in Seville

My glutes would be better off having some changes in elevation, but my knees are glad that silt from the Atlantic, which once lapped shores near to the Cathedral and old city walls, filled in the shallow valleys.

The true meaning of barrios

The streets of Seville are steeped in history, and many of their names give tourists a historical context. In my neighborhood, Calle Castilla stems out from the ruins of the Moorish castle, Calle Alfarería reveals where pottery and ceramic kilns once stood, and Rodrigo de Triana takes the name of the prodigal son who was reputedly the first to spot the New World from high in a crow’s nest.

casa de la moneda sevilla

When Seville became a bustling commercial center after the Reconquist in the mid 13th Century, European merchants flocked from other ports of call to take part – population boomed, making Seville not only the most important city in Iberia, but also the largest in Europe.

Dan explained that competition was fierce amongst bands of merchants, and large manor homes were constructed around the cathedral to showcase not only the wares – olive oil was big business, even then – but also wealth. Just peak into any open doors in Santa Cruz, and you’ll see what I mean. Feudal relationships existed, and small gangs of street were established as territories, owned and operated by the merchant groups.

Santa Cruz Sevilla neighborhood

Because of this, streets bear names like Alemanes (German) or Francos (French). The wealthiest group? The Genovese, whose market wares were sold on Avenida de la Constitución – the most important street in the city center.

You may know another important genovés who passed through Seville during this time – he set off from Spain in 1492.

Triana was the historically poor neighborhood 

Dan asked the other tour guests what they’d done since arriving in Seville the previous day. “Oh, we wandered over the bridge to the neighborhood on the other side of the river. Lovely place, very lively.” 

triana

“Well,” Dan replied, taking off his sunglass for effect, “Triana used to be one of the richest sectors of the city.”

I was baffled – I’d spun tales about how my barrio had once housed seafarers, flamenco dancers and gypsies, and thus made it more colorful and authentic, an oasis untouched by tourist traps and souvenir shops. In reality, the heart of Triana – from the river west to Pagés del Corro, and from Plaza de Cubs to just north of San Jacinto – was encapsulated in high stone walls and a number of manor houses during the Al-Andalus period in the 10th Century. 

Capilla del Carmen Triana Anibal Gonzalez

After the Christian Reconquist and subsequent destruction of the Castillo San Jorge, artisans, labor workers and sailors took up residence in Triana, perpetuating the stereotype that the neighborhood has been poor since its origins. Poor or not, it’s full of character and close to the city center, yet feels far away.

Orange trees are native to the city

I had learned the importance of citrus fruits in Seville’s culinary history during a Devour Seville food tour, and had wrongfully assumed that orange trees had been around since the time of the Moors. After all, they brought their language, their spices and their architectural heritage, so surely they’d thought to plant orange trees. Maybe they did – the Monasterio de la Cartuja is said to have edible oranges, and the cathedral’s Arabic courtyard is named for the naranjos that populate it – but it was renowned Sevillian architect Aníbal González who suggested planting orange trees along roads and in private gardens.

Oramge trees in Seville

Hallmarks of the Neo-mudéjar visionary are littered around the city and other Andalusian cities, including his obra maestra, the half-moon Plaza de España. And Each year when the azahar blooms, I’ll be reminded that the Novio’s great grandparents wouldn’t have marked the start of springtime with their scent like I’ve come to do.

I’d spill more, but the tour will reveal dark moments during the Inquisition, hidden secrets from the bustling commercial period after the Reconquist, and where the New World archives actually are – it’s a tour made for history buffs and visitors who want a more inside scoop on a city’s political, geographical and historical origins. Admittedly, many of these facts can be found online, but the point is that locals perpetuate the incorrect myths as a way to keep the magical of the city intact. Sevillanos exaggerate, and these many of these tales are as tall as the Giralda itself.

Typical Seville Streets

Dan and I walked back over the Puente San Telmo towards Triana, and I offered to buy him a beer back in the barrio (even though he tells me I’m from the cutre part). One Seville myth that will never die: cerveza is cheap and aplenty in this city, and tastes best on a sunny day with friends.

Context Travel graciously invited me on the Seville Andalusian Metropolis tour free of charge; tickets are 80€ each ($91 USD at publishing), plus any entrance fees you may incur. Tourists are encouraged to tell the guide what things they’d like to see and explore to help give the tour shape – their tagline is #traveldeeper, after all! You can also look for them in Europe, North America, Asia and South America. 

Are there any odd myths in the city where you live?

My Seville Superlatives: The Best of the Andalusian Capital

Updated in January 2026 with an extra decade of experience.

After eighteen years calling Seville my home, I’ve come to know the city and its nuances – from the best places to eat in Seville (I’ll always go with my old favorites), Seville’s hidden gems and the best of the best.

Here’s my curated collection of the Best of the Best in Seville travel guide, in an order as random as the streets of Santa Cruz:

Best in Culture & Heritage

Seville is what you conjure when you think of Spain – whitewashed buildings sidling up to colorful doors, flamenco chords slicing through the balmy evening, locals spilling out of tapas bars. You literally trip on culture in Seville – it’s a rich city that teeters between the old and new, and it borders on sensual.

Best can’t-miss attraction: Plaza de España. It’s free (for now), always open and is a special part of Seville’s history. Built nearly a century ago by famed sevillano architect Aníbal González and crowning the Parque María Luisa, the tiles, benches and moats were the focal point of the 1929 Ibero-American Fair. Go early in the morning or at the twilight to avoid crowds and the people hawking inexpensive fans.

Best for architecture lovers: I’m from Chicago, so I appreciate the nuances In a building or civil design perhaps more than most. And while literally every corner of Seville has something eye-catching, I will always recommend the rooftop tour of the Cathedral. Apart from being the third-largest cathedral in the world, it’s one of the city’s most iconic elements, and you can get up close and personal with the Giralda bell tower.

Best traditional experience: Toros? Tapas? Horse carriage? There are many “typically Spanish” things to do in Seville, and some of my favorites aren’t a single activity or place, but simply a long meal that stretches into the afternoon copas. Be open to walking until a terrace or a tavern calls to you, and let the hours slip away.

Best Flamenco Show: Admittedly, I’m not a huge follower of flamenco, but everyone I have sent to Casa de la Memoria, housed in an old palace on Calle Cuna, has not left disappointed. For kids, there are matinee and early performances at the Museo del Baile Flamenco.

Best Tour to Dive Into History: Seville is brimming with history, and of literally every single sort you can think of. And while I’ve been on a number of them, I cannot recommend Seville a la Carta enough. They go beyond the simple history of the city and pointing out monuments. Think the macabre, the weird or even bucking all the things you think you knew about the city.

Julia is admittedly a close friend of mine (she planned an 80s-themed birthday party for my 40th!), but her enthusiasm and deep knowledge is impressive. She offers be-spoke experiences and speaks English, Spanish and French.

Best Place to Catch Something Cultural Without Planning It: The Patio de la Diputación almost always has something on during the weekends and summer. Think movies, talks and free food samples.

 

Best in Food & Drink

Gone are the days when you’d see your dish being microwaved in the open kitchen – Seville has reinvented its gastronomic scene in a million ways in the last 15 years. From traditional to trendy, you can find just about anything in town (well, just about anything Spanish). There’s a long way to go before we have decent international cuisine, but all of your Spanish favorites are on the menu here.

Try pringá, espinacas con garbanzos, pescaíto frito, huevos a la flamenca. Wash it down with a sherry or cold Cruzcampo, the local beer. Wash, rinse, repeat.

Best tapas bar for locals: My forever favorite will be Bodeguita Antonio Romero, and I always take guests here. Kitchen is open all day, you stand at the bar or teeter on a stool, and the menu has something for everyone – plus, it’s not expensive. Sample the piripi sandwich – pork slathered in garlicky mayonnaise with a strip of bacon, a tomato wedge and a slice of cheese. I always order two.

Best sweet treats: Manu Jara pastries are an absolute dream because he uses butter instead of olive oil. The Triana location Calle Pureza, 2, doesn’t have tables, but you can take your coffee and treat to Calle Betis and sit along the river. Or, grab a table on the top floor of the Corte Inglés – Duque and enjoy views of the Giralda.

Best spots for a long sobremesa: There is nothing quite like a sobremesa, the languid time between lunch and afternoon drinks, sitting around a table chatting and nursing a cortado in between a few bites of something sweet. Sobremesa is a Spanish institution and one of the best ways to spend a weekend afternoon (in my opinion, best done at someone’s house, but then again, sevillanos consider the street to be their living room.

While most places close around 5 p.m. after lunch, you’ll find a few places willing to let you linger. Try Princepico in Parque de los Príncipes, Bar Barraba’s (Museo is the elite pick for tardeo) or Mentidero near Jardines de Murillo.

Best Local Market: I’m partial to two – Mercado de Feria‘s is set in a crumbling building next to a church with a bar on two of the four corners. In one of those bars, you can actually buy something from a fish stall and have it served up! There are also small tascas for nibbles with your beer, and the plaza directly behind the market gets delicious midday sun.

The other is my local market, el Mercado de San Gonzalo. It’s gritty and cheap and was one of the area’s first permanent buildings. Rafa carves up jamón, Curro has the cold botellines and Curro’s son’s olive selection is top.

Best Food Tour: Seville is a dream for gastro travelers: budget-friendly, accessible and full of dishes and experiences to try. I’ve been invited on loads of cool tours but think my favorite would be Devour Spain‘s part-history, part-gastronomy tour.

Best Food to Try, Just BecauseCaracoles, or snails. Look for them in the springtime. I prefer them to, say, coagulated blood in onions.

Best Bar Manolo: Call it what you want – Bar Manolo, Bar de Viejos or Old Man Bar, but these establishments are seriously the salt of the Spanish earth. You get beer, house wine, vermouth and a shot of anís on the menu, but what they lack in choice they make up for in character.

In my neighborhood I hit La Estrellita and Tasca Triana; in Santa Cruz, Bodega Santa Cruz or El Goleta for orange-infused wine, or Bodega La Aurora in Alfalfa.

Really, if there’s a Spanish abuelo outside, I’ll go in.

Best Tapas Bar: I’m often asked about where to dine in Seville, and while this is an entirely personal question, I always suggest La Azotea. Inventive takes on traditional and local fare, plus an unbeatable wine list and terrific service. I usually head to the one in Santa Cruz. Another favorite is Bodeguita Antonio Romero, which has loads of different types of dishes for any taste.

Best Chocolate con Churros: Churros on a Sunday morning are one of my treasured traditions, and none are as good as the ones at Bar La Rueca in Plaza del Juncal. It’s a trek unless you’re in Nervión. For something closer to the center, Bar El Comercio is a good substitute.

Best Menú del Día: three parts food and a million parts a wallet-saver, the menú del día is a fixed-price menu with two entrees, dessert, drink and bread for cheap. As tourism has changed and laborers move outside the city, these are sadly tougher to find unless you head to the periphery of the city.

That said, Ô Delice, the Lycée Français International Seville’s on-campus bar, serves a plentiful and delicious one Monday thru Friday. Chufi is a classically trained chef who sources the food himself. The menu will run you 10,50€ (you can also get a half menu) – tell him La Cat sent you!

Best Cruzcampo Bar: Loaded question. It seems that, in Seville, you’re never more than 100 feet from a bar or an ATM, and the question of who has the best pour is largely debated. I’ll go with my perennial favorite, La Grande in Triana, or non-descript La Melva in Sector Sur, and also give a shout to El Tremendo in Santa Catalina.

Best Semana Santa Bar: I always take my visitors to a church to explain Seville’s reverance to Holy Week, and follow up with a beer at a Semana Santa bar, covered with relics and photos of this important celebration. I either do the Esperanza de Triana and Bar Santa Ana route, or skip the church and head right to La Fresquita in Santa Cruz, where the barkeep is a member of the Macarena and has a botafumeiro going every so often.

Best Terrace Bar: As long as we’re talking about bars, rooftop bars are a great way to spend the languid afternoon hours between sightseeing. There are loads clustered around the Cathedral that boast incredible views, but you’ll pay (I once put down 14€ for a non-alcoholic drink while pregnant). If you head out a bit further, you’ll still have incredible views while not sacrificing your souvenir euros. Try Pura Vida to get up close an personal with a bit of a vibe or Terraza 1912.

Best Scoop of Ice Cream: Ice cream shops abound, but my favorite is Verdú in Triana – my local scoop. Who can resist cream of torrijas (a Spanish French Toast) or lemon with mint sorbet?

Best Tortilla de Patatas: Spain’s cuisine is rich with options, many that are regional. But the Spanish omelette? The only question here is whether or not you want it with onions(and the only acceptable answer is yes). I have tried a lot, and my favorite in Seville is at Bar Zuburán, tucked into a small plaza near the Setas. Go early to get a table, as they don’t take reservations and are very popular.

Best Disco: I am not the person to be asking about this (look for me instead at the Bar Manolos), but I like Alfonso in Parque María Luisa during the summer months.

Best Montaíto de Pringá: This mincemeat sandwich is one of Seville’s culinary claims to fame, and most traditional tapas bars will have it on the menu. For me, Bodega Santa Cruz‘s is top notch and a perfect, hot snack if I’m in the Santa Cruz neighborhood.

Best Traditional Breakfast: I wasn’t a huge fan of breakfast until I moved to Southern Spain and got coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice and bread with crushed tomato and olive oil for 2.50€. It ruined me. If I am craving something traditional, I love La Esquina del Arfe in the El Arenal district or PLACE WITH HAYLEY.

Best Brunch: I used to travel to Madrid for a decent brunch, but they’re now all over the place in Seville! Billy Brunch is a popular one, and it has all of your favorites – eggs, pancakes, açai and detox juices for after your tapas binge.

 

 

Best in Tourism & Sightseeing

My sister – who has been to Seville half a dozen times – recently stated that there is nothing to do in town. She could not be more wrong. Seville has upped its cultural offerings to be more than museums and pretty buildings, and you can find plenty of ways to see and experience the city.

Best Barrio to Stay in: Crowning a neighborhood as queen of them all is difficult because of taste. I’m partial to a few for their cultural and gastronomical offering, and am a big fan of mi querida Triana. I also like bullfighting neighborhood El Arenal, hip Feria with its weekly flea market, El Jueves, and even Alameda is growing on me.

If you’re coming on a short visit, I would recommend staying near the Setas / Encarnación. You’ll be walking distance to just about everything – everything but a metro station, truthfully.

Best photo-friendly corners: I find myself taking snaps of the same things after all this time: the colorful buildings in Barrio Santa Cruz, the Puente de Triana, Plaza de España. Get lost in the Feria or San Julián neighborhoods and their tangle of streets instead.

Best Spot for a Selfie: Calle Placentines where it crosses Argote de Molina, has the best unobstructed view of the Giralda tower. You can get the entire Giralda in for free (though if you’re willing to pay, take the Cathedral Rooftop Tour).

Best iconic landmark: Seville’s skyline has long had the Giralda piercing the skyline, but the Puente de Triana at sunset is my ultimate pick!

Best Souvenir to bring home: If your carry-on can handle it, the hand-painted ceramics on sale in Triana’s shops are my favorite things to buy for friends. Check Calle San Jorge and spend an hour in the Ceramics Museum if you have the time.

Best Museum: I love a good museum, and Seville is bursting with them. Seriously – this city is 2000 years old! From Flamenco to Fine Arts, ceramics to horse carriages. Espacio Santa Clara isn’t technically a museum, but hosts exhibitions throughout the year in an old nunnery. Find it near the Alameda in the Macarena neighborhood.

Best Place to Watch a Sunset: As the popular song goes, El sol duerme in Triana y nace en Santa Cruz. My favorite place to see the sun go down is on the banks of the Guadalquivir with a clear view to the Triana bridge that links the city center to my neighborhood. There are loads of bars to stop for a tipple that way, as well.

Best Museum You’ve Never Heard Of: Parque María Luisa’s Casa de la Sciencia was a huge surprise for us! Housed in one of the pavilions from the 1929 Iberoamerican Expo, the building itself retains its decoration, and you’ll find permanent exhibits exploring Andalusia’s flora, fauna and geology, plus rotating exhibits on science and technology. My kids learned about the brain, memory and Santiago Ramón y Cajal, one of my elder son’s heroes.

Best Tourist Attraction to Skip and Spend that Money on Tapas: The Torre del Oro and it seafaring museum are largely disappointing, and the view from the top isn’t any better from it because of large plexiglass barriers. On that note, the mirador at the Torre de Sevilla is also lackluster. Better to take in the views from a terrace bar!

Best Splurge: Seville can be done on the dirt cheap (hostels, bocadillos and beer buckets at La Sureña) or you can make it lavish. While it could be tempting to stay and play at Seville’s only 5-Star hotel, Alfonso XII, I’d vote for the hammam and massage at Aire de Sevilla, tucked away in Santa Cruz. I also enjoyed my massage at Massages SVQ, also in Santa Cruz.

Best local products to bring home: Fans, mantón de manilla, ceramics. Seville has lovely handicrafts, but you can’t go back home without olive oil. Nab a few bottles at La Oleoteca Sevilla, a gourmet olive oil shop in El Arenal.

Best Day Trip: Sadly, Seville doesn’t have too many quaint towns or natural highlights. While I’d spring to go to San Nicolás del Puerto at any free chance and hike the Vía Verde, I usually send other visitors to Córdoba. A 45-minute train ride straight to a quainter version of Seville and home to as Spanish of a corn dog as you can get, the flamenquín.

 

Best in Family

I may get in trouble for saying this, but for as friendly as Spain is for families, it does not bend its long-seeded cultural rules for kids. That’s why you’ll see kids running around plazas after midnight come the summer! But I loved having young kids in Seville.

Best outdoor spaces: Parque María Luisa is charming and has a bunch of resident pigeons (your kids will love paying a euro to feed them), but Parque del Alamillo is sprawling and includes a zip line and far less flying rats. Both include places to grab a granizado or a quick bite.

Best neighborhood strolls: If you’re looking for a neighborhood that has a bit of everything, check out La Alameda. There’s a wide promenade anchored by two parks, dancing fountains for the summer, plenty of bars and restaurants for a snack – including a pizza by the slice window. It’s also easy to reach from many other barrios.

Best rainy day activity: Head to Isla de la Cartuja and to the Torre Sevilla mall. Anchored by a shopping plaza, there are places to eat (VIPS and Burger King are my kids’ favorite), covered shopping areas, a mirador and a Caixa Forum with great programming for kids.

Trampoline parks are usually outside of the city center but close enough to take a taxi. My kids prefer Party Jump and Jump Yard, both in the Aljarafe. Just be aware you should book ahead if it’s raining.

Best flamenco for kids: What dance obsessed little kid can come to Seville and not partake in a show? The Museo del Baile Flamenco offers matinee shows at noon and 5 p.m. daily to adjust to siesta times and toddler meltdowns. Kids pay just XX, and you can pair the show with a visit to the museum.

Best foods for kids in Seville: Dining out can be a bit tricky between meal times that coincide with nap time (or are after bed time!) and new foods. Seville also has a reputation for fried food.

Most meals come with potatoes in some form, mini hamburgers are easy to find on tapas menus, and you can usually get a bikini (grilled cheese with a slice of boiled ham). Other things to consider are lagrimitas de pollo (fried chicken), croquetas with various fillings, and cold cut plates. Bread baskets come with every meal, in case you’re really desparate.

 

Best in Seasonal & Events

There’s a local joke that goes something along the lines of having a religious procession, a big concert, a neighborhood 5K and a soccer match all at once, and often in the same corner of the city. Seville has made a serious push to host large events (I can’t believe I stepped away from international education right before CIS Forum!) and become a cultural hub. I’m still in shock I saw Justin Timberlake perform last summer but also join sevillanos in groaning about traffic and road closures as a result.

Best Month for SevillanosApril. Orange trees are in blossom, the weather is perfect, Cruzcampo seems to taste better and, if we’re really lucky, both Semana Santa and Feria fall in April.

Best Month to Visit: I usually push for OctoberMarch and April because of the weather and cheaper prices. But seriously, Seville has a lot to offer whenever you come – even in the stifling summer months!

Best Local Festival: If you’ve read my blog long enough, you’ll know the cattle fair-turned Andalusian showcase the Feria de Abril is my favorite, but I’ll give the Velá de Santa Ana and Holy Week each a nod, too.

Best festive-season traditions: Seville has really stepped it up at Christmas, but you’ve got to pace yourself: belénes around the city recount the Nativity, Christmas lights are everywhere, and small pop-up markets about. One of my favorites is the Recoveco market, held in various shops clustered in the San Julián neighborhood, typically in weekends in December. You’ll find handmade goodies here from local artists.

Best summer-night vibes: Seville used to be a ghost town in the summer, where locals would flock to the coast to escape the heat. More and more people are opting to stay in the city during the summer – the city is a ghost town between noon and 8 p.m. but nights are lovely. From open air discos to movies in the park to simply popping down to a plaza, it’s important to not count the summer out (and to fill up on granizados and ice cream!).

Best of Seville FAQS

How many days do I need in Seville?

I’ve lived in Seville for 18 years and have yet to experience it all. If you’re coming for the first time and want to take things at a leisurely pace, I would do three days and two nights – add an extra day if you want to daytrip to Córdoba or Granada.

Is Seville a good place to visit with kids?

Raising my own two kids in Seville has been a positive experience. While the parks in the center of the town are not well-kept, kids have plenty of space to roam, will like the experience of tapas, and can find ways to stay busy between museums and other exhibits. Be sure to indulge in a siesta and remember that kids go everywhere in Spain, so you can give them a bit of a long leash while in town!

How can I get more information about moving to Seville?

There’s been an uptick in North American expats to Seville since COVID, and I don’t think it will slow. Your local consulate is the best place to start asking questions about your visa, working in Spain and settling, and you can check out James Blick’s extensive YouTube series and move abroad masterclass for more. Facebook groups like Expats Seville are also a solid resource.

Seville seems to have one foot firmly in the past and another stepping towards the future. It’s constantly changing within its parameters but hold true to its values and customs. In eighteen years, I’ve explored every inch of the city center and a number of barrios, become a fierce supporter of a local team, learned the lingo and have come to feel like one of them – I am even in the process of getting a Spanish passport.

Challenge me on anything, and you’ll give me something to do at the weekend! Or, if you liked this post and want to take it with you, why not download the GPSMyCity app and purchase the GPS-enabled guide? Your dollars help run this site!

 

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