I like cemeteries.

I felt very unfestive this year at Halloween.

In years past, we’ve celebrated pumpkin decorating parties,

had enormous Halloween fetes,

and thrown big celebrations at school.

The Novio usually has a training course during this week, so I was excited to finally show him why my love of cemeteries and ghost stories is normal.

This was as festive as we got:

During my sophomore year of college, Lisa, Beth and I were studying for our Age of the Dinosaurs (if you don’t believe this is actually a class at the University of Iowa, you can find the course description here) on a blustery Halloween Eve night. Bored of cladograms and sauropods, we hatched a plan to visit the Iowa-famous Black Angel, a reputedly haunted statue in the Oakland Cemetery of Iowa City. equipped with flashlights and warm clothing, we took a water bottle full of liquid courage (Hawkeye Vodka, clearly) and set off.

Legend has it that the monstrously large statue was erected by a woman who had once lived in Iowa City to preside over the remains of her dead son and husband, but over a few years’ time, the statue turned black and the wing bent inward. Locals claim the statue has always been connected to the paranormal, and like Scout Finch and the Radley house, we dared one another to touch it to test its claim that virgins were safe. In the windy, damp night, the statue seemed twice as large and even more sinister. In the daylight, however, the whole place just seemed idyllic.

Cemeteries have always fascinated me, whether or not it’s the Halloween season. During my travels, I make it a point to see the way people are laid to rest, how their living relatives honor them. Maybe it’s just because of the Spanish celebration of Día de Todos los Santos, a more pious version of Day of the Dead, which was celebrated just yesterday.

Reputedly, 30% of flowers are sold in the days leading up to the one reserved for families to honor their deceased by offering flower ofrendas and cleaning up the gravesite. I was dying (whoa, wrote that without thinking and am going to leave it) to go and see if the Manchego All Saint’s Day from the movie Volver was spot-on.

In the end, that stupid DELE exam won out, so I’ll just leave you with some shots from hauntingly gorgeous cemeteries from around Europe.

Prayer candles in Bukovina, Romania

A forlorn cemetery in Maramures, Romania

The Merry Cemetery of Sapanta, right on the border. I love the jovial depictions of life and death of over 800 people.

In Spain, the 75% who choose not to be cremated are usually given lockers at the local cemetery. This one is in Olvera, Cadiz

The creepy, even in broad daylight, cemetery in Comillas, Santander, is reputed to be haunted.

Like Iowa City, Comillas has its own Angel. Summer 2010.

Along the road to redemption in Cashel, Ireland.

A peaceful Christmas morning with unbelievable light in Limerick, Ireland. I may or may not have looked for Frank McCourt’s dead brothers.

Do you like cemeteries? Seville’s San Fernando Cemetery is home to celebrated bullfighters and flamenco dancers, and it’s a peaceful garden. Free to enter, though photos are not allowed.

 

The One Where the Novio Carved a Pumpkin

When I made my little trip to Spain four years ago, I was determined to do what any expat does – immerse myself in the culture. Eat, breath and sleep flamenco, siestas and tapas.

Then I realized I am just too American for that. Who says you can’t live in Spain and have your hot dog-flavored cake, and eat it, too?

I don’t necessarily have to redeem myself when it comes to exhibiting my Americanism with pride with the Novio, as he is ten times more Spanish than I am guiri. He eats, breathes, sleeps cerveza, Betis and juerga. But one really beautiful part of a bilingual, bicultural relationship is being able to share another culture with someone. Had I not met Kike, there’s a lot that would remain a mystery to me, and a lot of places I would never know.

So, in my opinion, it’s only natural I’d try to do the same. since Halloween is my second favorite holiday, second only to Fourth of July (for the beer and fireworks, not the patriotism!), and this is the first time he’s actually been in Seville for Halloween since we met, it was high time I taught him about All Hallow’s Eve.

Turns out, he’s too Spanish for his own good.

My friend Kelly hosts a pumpkin carving party yearly, but I missed out this year to go to Madrid. Last Tuesday, I finished work and, feeling in the spirit of Halloween on the first cold and blustery day of the Fall, went to Lidl to buy spider webs for my classroom and a pumpkin for the Novio and I. Lidl is the German equivalent of Aldi – mega cheap, charges you for bags like most places in Spain, has carts of random crap in the aisles. But Aldi has a rotating international week, meaning I can get cranberry juice and marshmallows during American week, Croque Monsseiur during semaine francaise, and beer brats and Haribo gummis any given. In the weeks leading up to Halloween, witches hats and packaged candy fangs adorn the aisle displays next to the register. I snagged the last two pumpkins, paid for two bags and took them home.

Since the pumpkins came with stickered-on faces, The Novio perched them on the mantle above the TV, laughing in a spooky voice. “Sunday,” I announced, “¡Al ataque!”

The weekend drew to a close and I dropped Hayley off at the taxi stand and went to make chicken stock and wait for Kike to come home from having lunch with friends. Three hours later, he arrives home. I told him I wanted to do Halloween stuff, like carve our pumpkins. He walked into the kitchen, took out a knife, and I had to lunge forward and yell NOOOOOOOOOOO, because he assumed I wanted him to cut it up so we could make a crema, a type of thick soup, out of it. He asked the purpose of carving it before All Hallow’s Eve, as today is merely the 30th.

I told him I was giving up, not really willing to fight about a tradition he knows very little about. Venga, he coaxed, we’re already doing Halloween things! He made a scary face and tried to pop out at me from behind the open fridge door. I took out the carving knife and commenced slicing off the head of his pumpkin, scooping out the goopy innards and placing them in a glass bowl.

As I tried to peel off the sticker, the Novio protested, saying he didn’t know how to make a scary face. I gave up. He did, too.

Replacing the top, he snickered and put the jack o’lantern back on the mantle. Within ten minutes, the time it took for me to carve my pumpkin and place the seeds pn a baking sheet, he was out cold.

There’s always Thanksgiving, Novio. Who doesn’t like a holiday based around food and sports?

How to make Torrijas for Holy Week

Mariquilla, my boss’s daughter, came flouncing into my office. “Miss Cat, IIIIIIII need the, um, capirote.”

Huh?

I asked her what it was, or to describe it, thinking it could be one of the two things in the preschool workroom. A powder blue nazareno robe or a pointed nazareno hat. She indicated the hat and it hit me: We’re already in Holy Week. Seven short days from now, I’ll be wheeling a Virgin Mary throughout the streets of the neighborhood I work in with the kids dressed in mantillas, robes and those KKK image-invoking hats. And in eight, I’ll be heading to Romania for what my friend Bryan has called the fight of vampires versus gypsies.

While visions of marshmallow peeps and drugstore jelly beans dance in my head, I set out to prove to my boyfriend that I’m not a “blue-eyed Homer Simpson” as he recently dubbed me, so I made Spain’s answer to a chocolate bunny: torrijas. Made like French Toast, this honey- and cinnamon-sweetened bread is only eaten in the week leading up to Easter.

Ingredients:
One french bread bar (better if from the day before), cut into thick slices
1 cup milk
2 medium-sized eggs
one stick of cinnamon
2 tablespoons flour
sugar

In a shallow bowl, pour the milk and add a few shakes of cinnamon, depending on taste. Beat the two eggs in a second shallow bowl and slowly add flour. Dip thick-cut slices of bread into the milk so that they’re saturated, but not dripping, in milk, then pass them to the bowl of eggs, turning over to ensure there’s egg enough to fry.

Heat a good amount of olive oil on the stove top. After it bubbles, it will start to smoke; this means it’s hot and perfect for frying. Place the bread in the oil, being careful not to burn it (usually twice on each side is perfect). When finished, cover in sugar or honey.

Yeah, or just make french toast and call it Typical Spanish (Thanks to Susana, the boss of torrijas, for helping me with the recipe and photo from Que.es)

Carnaval: A Photo Essay

Since Katie thinks my photos are ok, Elizabeth already did it, and simply because there aren’t enough words in the world to describe the pre-Lenten debauchery of Cádiz Carnavales. Imagine the entire historic part of Europe’s longest continually inhabited city full of people in ridiculous costumes, toting bags full of alcohol and singing all night. Then, they get up during the day and watch chirigotas, or groups which sing about pop culture and satire in equally amusing costumes.

If anyone knows Catholicism, it’s the Spaniards. But they also know how to party.

Three Blind Mice, Three Blind Mice…
 Hello, you don’t know me, but I’m your period
The Town Hall Square, full of party-goers
Like I said, Spain knows how to be holy and unholy at the same time
Onward and forward, says Jeremy
Crossdressing in Spain is as normal as jamón legs at bars
Costumes for every taste. Really.
Excitement and more people around every corner
Eagleman had to have been one of my favorites
 If Pulpo Paul were to predict how I’d end the night, he’d say the following:
Ciega stands for both blind and drunk.

Andaluces, Levantaos!

Do you ever dream about the real Spain? With its moorish arches, strips of golden beaches, flamencos and toreros?

Yeah, I live that dream. While I can’t say I know anyone who is a bullfighter or live on a beach, I am happy to call Seville, the Andalusian capital home. Today, on its 31st anniversary (my boyfriend is six months older than it!) I took the time to remember what I love so much about my new home: shrimp and other goodies from the sea, ferias and flecos, azulejos, toastadas, Cruzcampo and sunny afternoons with my Spanish family. I did what any of the 8.2 million inhabitants would do on their day off:

Sleep in, then have a toast with olive oil and ham.

Grab my bike and head into the center to pay homage the the bandera de verde y blanco, then visit a museum for free.

Finally, have a beer in Salvador.

Te brindo a tí, Andalucía, por ser tan grande y tan guapo. For your linxes and horses, your sherry and olives. For your gente and your history. For Picasso, Murillo, Antonio Banderas and David Bisbal’s hair, clearly.

And many thanks to Blas Infante.

Feliz, Feliz en tu día!

Today I had on one of those struggle faces. One of those “Don’t-bug-me-or-stand-in-front-of-the-coffee-machine-as-I’m-tired” faces that Refu always points out with a jolly, Seño, tienes mala carilla!

I was tired, overwhelmed by pulling off three Thanksgiving parties for 155 picky children and dreading the workday when Almudena approached me.

“Cat!” she called out from halfway down the hall, “It’s your saint day, felicidades!” with a big kiss for both cheeks. Almudena is the Religion Department chair and always on top of the Saint’s calendar. I made a mental note to buy a small cake for merienda, as is customary on your santo.

As a Catholic, I can name several saints, the century of their coronation and what they are famous for. But when it comes to remembering their feast days, I didn’t even know my own. I had to explain to Almudena that, in my confirmation, I chose Lucy (Lucía in Spanish, one of my favorite names), so I would technically celebrate on December 13th. Nonsense! She proclaimed, we should sing to you!

Saint days in Spain are like half birthdays. You get sung to, your parents bring treats to school. But as Spain is utterly Catholic (without being so), Gonzalo in three years also announced it was his saint and his parents were cooking him a special dinner. Some children are named for the saint whose feast day they’re born on, or some to a special family saint prayed to frequently. I, for one, named my dearfully departed bike Juan Bosco because I christened him on January 31st. There are patrons of cities, professions, and even American States! But since Kike’s family doesn’t celebrate it (though I know it’s July 13th), I have never gotten into the tradition until I came to a religious school to teach and have to recognize children with this song:

Almudena swung my arms while singing it and I laughed for once, not embarrassed but thrilled to have someone think of me on my special day.

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...