Apparently, I’m Not the Only Guiri Who Dislikes Barcelona: Aga’s Take on the Ciudad Condal

March 13, 2013 by · 6 Comments

After I confessed that Spain’s cosmopolitan Barcelona – a city on nearly every traveler’s itinerary, I was shocked to discover that I wasn’t alone in feeling iffy about it. Even friends of mine who have called Barna home have admitted that the city is a bit sketchy, that it’s hard to navigate and that it took a while for it to grow on them. Upon publishing what has been my most controversial post, Aga of Aga Nuno Somewhere offered to write a counter post about what’s to love about the sprawling city. Her story:

Barcelona was the first Spanish city that I visited. Maybe that is why I have such a soft spot for it? I remember walking the first time around Passeig de Gràcia and admiring Gaudí’s masterpieces and how intimidated I felt when being surrounded by thousands of tourist on la Rambla.  During my first visit I was only a tourist, but then came back to Spain for my Erasmus exchange and spent a whole year in a small Catalan town Lleida. I took every opportunity I could to travel to Barcelona, which is only 90 minutes away.

I love big cities, the hustle and bustle of a metropolis, and Barcelona had all I ever needed – sun, beach, beautiful monuments, calmer districts like Gràcia. I secretly dreamt of living there. Little did I know that I would actually move there with my boyfriend for two years. And as much as I like the city, I must admit it was not as great as I would have wanted.

Barcelona is expensive, finding a flat is a nightmare (we actually had to fight in court to get our 1500€ deposit back from the first landlord), Catalans are not really friendly when it comes to service and it is really hard to get to know them. As my boyfriend used to say: in winter they all go skiing to Andorra, in summer they all go to their beach houses on Costa Brava. When you actually live in the city that always appears on a list of top destination to travel in Europe,  all those tourists who come to visit start to annoy you… But I still loved being able to say: Oh, I live in Barcelona.

I discovered some great places to eat, as I am a foodie, so I tend to look for nice bars or restaurants everywhere I go. But unfortunately I have to admit that when comparing it to other Spanish cities, when it comes to food, Barcelona is falling far behind Madrid or Andalucía. You really must know where to go, otherwise you end up in some pintxo chain or paying a fortune for simple tapas and sangria.

I love street art, so every walk around Barcelona was exciting: I never knew what was waiting for me around the corner! And all of those Catalan traditions that I discovered during the fiestas: castellers (human towers), correfoc (parade with fire) or calcotada (eating grilled calcots – a kind of sweet onion). I had my calendar full of all the city fiestas –  la Merce (the Patroness of the city), fiestas de Gràcia and some other neighborhoods.

I also travelled a lot around the region, to lovely Sitges, Montserrat, Dali’s Triangle and Costa Brava. But even if you live in Barcelona for a long time, there is always something new to do, somewhere to go and discover, or simply sit in a chiringuito on the beach with a cold beer (or the winter version: drink in a vermutería– small local bar that serves homemade vermouth).

I really like Barcelona and had my favourite spots there, but then understand that not everyone falls under the spell of Ciudad Condal, especially when spending there only few days and just being a guiri.

Aga writes in Polish and English about her travels throughout Europe with her boyfriend, Nuno, on Aga Nuno Somewhere. Currently residing in Ireland, you can find her on twitter at https://twitter.com/AgaNunoBlog.

Filed Under: Barcelona, Catalonia, Cataluña, Daytrips Barcelona, expat, Featured, guest post, Guiri Survival Tips, Spain Travel · Tagged: ,

The Sagrada Familia: Gaudi’s Obra Maestra

March 11, 2013 by · 16 Comments

The Sagrada Familia is perhaps one of the most well-known construction sites in the world, as well as one of the longest running. Intended to be the obra maestra of Antoni Gaudí, his untimely death leaving the construction site nearly 100 years ago launched the church into the epicenter of a battle over how closely to finish Gaudí’s work.

Nature inspired Gaudí as a child, and his grand temple is a testament to his religious devotion and belief that no man can create what God has done upon the Earth. Every detail of the facade and the towers were conceived bearing that in mind, though recent advances in technology have led to a stray away from the original blueprints. The church is slated to be finished in 2026, 100 year after its mastermind’s death.

On my first visit to the Sagrada Familia in 2005, a hangover dampened our plans to make it to the site early, but we lucked out that the hot July day meant that tourists had taken to the water. The line snaked halfway around the block, but the cavernous church provided refuge from the hot sun. It would be five years before the cranes would be removed, the sound of the drills quelled and the makeshift floorboards that served as walkways around a construction site would be replaced with smooth marble floors.

I went a few years later with my grandmother, and not much more work had been done. On my most recent trip to Barcelona, I could marvel in Gaudí works that partially redeem the city for me. While we scoffed at the thought of paying 20€ for the Casa Batlló, devoting an entire morning to the Sagrada Familia and paying the price of entrance and an audio guide was a no-brainer.

I’m not very religious or even very spiritual, but the emptiness and the contrast of colors, mixed with the soaring buttresses, was uplifting. We spent well over 90 minutes before taking the elevator up to the top of one of eight towers.

If you go: The Sagrada Familia is located in the Eixample neighborhood, and metro lines L2 and L5 serve the Antoni Gaudi plaza, making a stop at the station called Sagrada Familia. The basilica, museum and towers are open daily from 9am until 6pm in the winter, and until 8pm in the summer. You’ll be charged 13,50€ for entrance (11,50€ if you’re a student or senior), or 18€ for an audio guide with entrance fee. The towers will run you an extra 4,50€, and you will be assigned a specific time to avoid lines (we were able to sneak in 15 minutes earlier).

Alternately, you can skip lines and receive discounted tickets for all of Barcelona’s big sites via TicketBar by clicking here.

The temple was consecrated in 2010 and mass in now celebrated regularly. Many thanks to Meritxell of Tourism with Me for her help with where to eat nearby. We had a filling Catalan menu at Juanma, located at C/Lepant, 280. If you’re looking for a place to stay, look no further than Barcelona Home for great apartment rentals.

Filed Under: Architecture, Barcelona, Catalonia, Cataluña, Churches, Featured, Gaudi, Holy Week, photo post, religion, Spain Travel, tourism, travel photography, UNESCO World Heritage · Tagged: , ,

Am I the only one who doesn’t like Barcelona?

February 6, 2013 by · 201 Comments

I am a person who believes in second chances. You can ask my dear friend, Phil (hi, friend!).

And when it comes to cities that I didn’t like the first time around, I’ll always willing to make another trip. So many of my travels could have been spoiled by rain, strikes, food poisoning and culture shock, but some cities and I are just not amigos, even after multiple visits.

Barcelona is one of those cities. Three second chances later, and it’s still not grown on me.

In all fairness, I love the whimsical architecture, the Mercè festival, the oceanfront. But the positive aspects seem to end there.

I find Barcelona too busy, too big, too expensive and not well-lit. It’s not friendly in the same way that Valencia is (another Spanish city I could take or leave), nor did I ever stop feeling like a tourist. Having my family with me was stressful as I repeated, “No, Mom, I can’t read it; it’s in Catalan and I don’t speak Catalan,” or tried to ask directions, only to find the person I’d asked spoke no English or Spanish. Apart from the sites I like, such as Parc Güell or the Gràcia neighborhood, I felt like I wasn’t really savoring a second chance in a city – and I swear I tried!

I hear loads about the cuisine, but being based in El Born, couldn’t find much that wasn’t chain pintxos and tapas, or menus riddled with poorly translated English – always a sign the service and prices will be exorbitant. What’s more, I come from a family of picky eaters. We had pizza, two consecutive meals at a pintxos bar and burgers.

And what is with not a single place being open for coffee before 9am, save Starbucks?! Even the 24-hour McDonalds wasn’t open when we left early one morning for the Pyrenees! I can always count on an obscure cafeteria opening early for a coffee in every other part of Spain I’ve traveled to, so I was surprised that all the bars seemed shuttered until 9am.

I’m also not into the Catalan ‘tude. Spearheaded by Artur Mas, a campaign for Catalonian independence has transformed the city into an alien landscape of sorts, which independence flags hanging from balconies and Mossos, the Catalan version of a cop, all over the place. I can’t argue that their claim  that their language and culture was oppressed under Franco, I don’t think that their reasons for leaving will necessarily make things any better. The kicker? They want to be recognized as an EU sovereign state but still stay in the BBVA Spanish soccer league! (if you’re interested in learning more, check out Simon Harris’s book project, Catalonia is not Spain: a Historical Perspective)

I also had to laugh when our host called to ask us how the trip was going. Considering we’d invariably come during three back-to-back holidays, I told him we’d had to escape the country on the whole and go to Andorra. Qué lujo, he responded, and I told him about my plan to travel to 30 countries before 30. His response? That Cataluña is another country, even though it’s illegal to secede from Spain. Different, yes, but still Spain.

What is great about Barcelona is its proximity to the Pyrenees, Girona and Costa Brava. Navigating through my cell phone, we took quick breaks to Andorra, Girona, Besalu and Monstserrat. Getting out of the city meant having my head cleared and experiencing a part of the country whose tourism is highly developed and thriving. Returning, I tried to see Barcelona a bit differently, but I just ended up pouting like a three-year-old when I had to pay more than 1,20€ for a beer and use my cell phone as a flashlight for opening the door to our place in El Born. 

Have you ever given a city a second chance? Were your thoughts swayed? Is there a destination you’re not keen on returning to? Watch for the response to this post from Aga, part of the traveling duo of Aga Nuno Somewhere. If you decide you have to see Barcelona, considering checking out Barcelona Home for apartment rentals while in the Ciudad Condal.

Filed Under: Barcelona, Catalonia, Cataluña, culture shock, Featured, Gaudi, guiri atope, reflections, Spain, Spain Travel, the north, Travel · Tagged: ,

Seville Snapshot: The Plaça Reial of Barcelona

January 14, 2013 by · 10 Comments

Over the holidays, my parents and  sister arrived to Barajas jet-lagged but 15 minutes early. I was typing away on a story at the cafetería next to the arrivals gates and just happened to see my mother, bewildered, looking around. A wave of relief washed over me that they’d not been delayed 15 hours like their previous trip and, five years late, I could show them Spain my way (and be able to full translate a menu and not just say, “Uhhhh, I think it’s a pig part”).

Winter is one of my favorite times to travel, and my family was blessed with unseasonably good weather, making our days in Barcelona and beyond bright and perfect for exploring. After their bodies adjusted a bit, we were out to explore La Boquería and my favorite little rincón of Barcelona, Plaça Reial. I’ve watched concerts in the shade of its palm trees, shared hunks of cheese and a baguette next to its fountain and gone underground to a disco right near the arched colonnades. Even in winter under a dull morning sky, the yellow facades popped, livening up my familia.

I’ve got loads to share about Cataluña and New Year’s in Madrid over the coming weeks! If you’d like to contribute to my weekly snapshots, send me an email at sunshineandsiestas @ gmail [dot] com, or you can see more photos of my trip on Sunshine and Siestas’s Facebook page.

Filed Under: Architecture, Barcelona, Catalonia, Cataluña, expat life, family, Gaudi, Places with Encanto, Plazas and Squares, Spain Travel · Tagged: , ,

Swanky Barcelona Hostels: Where to Sleep in the Ciudad Condal

September 29, 2012 by · 2 Comments

The benefits of staying in hostels while traveling are numerous. Hostels offer budget-conscious travellers the opportunity to indulge in affordable lodging and take advantage of cost-saving amenities, such as community kitchens for easy meal preparation. Perhaps just as valuable as affordability, these hotel alternatives also provide residents with fantastic opportunities to engage with fellow travellers in a way that broadens the travel experience and creates friendships that span the globe. Barcelona features a wide variety of geared toward many different types of travellers, as well as numerous cool apartment rentals around the city.

Alberg Pere Tarres
This hostel in Barcelona allows travellers to select a sex-specific dormitory, mixed dormitory or even private room. With 320 beds to choose from, this hostel is almost certain to have availability. Amenities include free internet access, free breakfast, and a community kitchen available for use. Residents are welcome to take meals and snacks at the  restaurant and utilize individual’s lockers to protect valuable items. The Alberg Pere Tarres also boasts 32 accessible beds for travellers who require special assistance.

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Alberguinn Youth Hostel
With both mixed dorms and a female-only dorm room, this hostel is ideal for travellers who desire proximity to football stadiums, restaurants, bars, and ample shopping. Since the hostel utilizes key cards for building access, residents are welcome to visit the wonders of Barcelona without worrying about a curfew. Amenities include free internet access, free luggage storage, free breakfast, and available reception staff at all hours of the day and night.

Alternative Creative Youth Home
Whether seeking a very short stay or a month’s long place of residence, this youth hostel in Barcelona has it all. The prime location in the heart of the city, combined with a curfew-free environment, is a boon for adventurous travellers. Free internet access with specific support for Mac users and security lockers are among the features. Perhaps the best aspect of this hostel is its friendly atmosphere and dedicated staff who are always ready to provide useful information to residents. More sedate adventurers will enjoy knowing that this hostel promotes a respectful community free from excess noise or partying.

Casa Gracia Barcelona
Also located near the city centre, this youth hostel is not just a resting place for weary travellers; it is also an art gallery. Residents can choose form shared or private lodging and enjoy free internet access, a fully functional kitchen, and a living area that is perfect for meeting fellow travellers and planning the next adventure. This hostel features an elevator and is wheelchair accessible.

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Sunshine Hostel
The Sunshine Hostel boasts many of the amenities that adventurous travellers enjoy, such as free internet access, 24 hour reception, communal kitchen access, and free luggage storage. It also provides the sight-seeing and nightlife that makes traveling so enjoyable. In fact, with its central location in Old Town near Las Ramblas, excitement can be found right outside the front door. Once a traveller is ready to relax and unwind from his or her adventures, Sunshine Hostel offers a quiet atmosphere to rest.

Sant Jordi Sagrada Familia
Of all the youth hostels in Barcelona, this hostel specifically offers accommodations and community to skateboarders and travellers who enjoy urban arts. In addition to shared dorms and private rooms, the Sant Jordi features a private terrace with mini-ramp, free internet access, and a large common area that is separate from the sleeping area. This hostel also organizes large parties to introduce travellers to the club scene and nightlife that Barcelona has to offer. Travellers who seek a hip adventure are certain to find a home at Sant Jordi.

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Travellers from all walks of life can find hostels in Barcelona that feature accommodations and amenities that will enhance the travel experience. Individuals seeking a bustling, party-filled adventure or a quiet place to rest on a journey filled with cultural sights and attractions will both find a hostel that is ready to provide a home away from home at hostelbookers.com.

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Filed Under: Accommodation, Barcelona, Catalonia, Cataluña, guest post, Hostals, international travel · Tagged: , ,
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