When we returned to Western Asturias, where we took our babymoon, we had two things clear: we’d stay at Agustina and Angel’s guest house, la Casona del Faedo, and we’d let the baby mark our rhythms. Enrique would turn six months old during our sojourn, and as such, was on the verge of starting solids. He’d already earned his wings and had become a proven road warrior, so we were confident that he could handle a few nights of sleeping in a new place.
If it were up to Enrique, he’d wake up at 8am sharp. Wake up slowly, blinking in the morning sun that streams in, accompanied a damp breeze. A horse bellows in the distance as he balls his hands into fists and stretches them down towards his feet.
While the Novio refueled with a coffee and prepared a day bag, I fed the baby with one of Agustina’s cakes in hand, my back pressed up against a 19th Century headboard. The morning had dawned chilly but bright, the promise of a perfect day. Agustina wrapped up a few spongy squares of cake and pressed plums into our hands for the road.
Tapia de Casariego was within reach when I did the Camino de Santiago in 2013. Everyone raved about its picturesque port and laid-back surf town vibe. Just like that July day four years prior, the weather would have been perfect for a diversion back up to the coast instead of dipping down to A Caridad; four Julys later, I had convinced the Novio to spend a morning before taking the baby to Playa de las Catedrales during low tide that evening.
The familiar yellow shell met us as soon as we’d parked the car and steered ourselves into the main square. A sea breeze lifted off the peninsula and swept through the sleepy center of a town that thrives on fishing, agriculture and tourism. There was little more than the requisite church, one which channeled Tenerife’s temples, and a few shops, still shuttered in the early morning.
We wound around the steep streets of the fisherman’s barrio, a mismatch of humble homes that fans out over an isthmus, stopping to have a beer right at noon next to the small port.
Yep, it’s as picturesque as they say.
Rather than the packed ports at Luarca and Cudillero, Tapia’s humble puerto boasted less boats and of those there, not one screamed luxury or even a fresh coat of paint.
I have come to realize that I need a body of water to feel calm and full. Being from the landlocked Midwest, even a river will do. But a bustling little port with cheap beers and sunshine? Sold. One hundred times sold.
Most of Asturias’s festivals fall in July around the Virgen del Carmen feast day on July 13th, and Tapia treated us to a small parade, complete with a doll-sized Virgen Mary that would eventually be floated out to sea. The drums and bagpipes called Enrique’s attention, and he squirmed in my arms, grinning.
Traveling with a baby is…different.
Gone are the lie ins and leisurely lunches; the lack of planning, non-existent.
But the beauty lies in the little moments, in his discovery of a new place, a new flavor, a new feeling. We took Enrique down to the Entreplayas beach, littered with treasures of the low tide. Stripping off his cloth shoes, he gingerly set his toes in the damp sand, squealing with toothless delight.
I slipped off my sandals, resting them on a rock beside the baby’s, and rolled up my jeans. As the cold water rushed in, he curled his toes and shuddered before breaking out into his laugh.
Following the Novio’s cousin’s spot-on recommendations for food, we made a reservation at La Terraza, a long-standing cider house in the heart of the village. Being just a few kilometers from the River Eo, which separates Asturias and Galicia, we had the pleasure of a menu that included both – and we went full-on Galicia with raxo, pulpo a la feira and a salad drizzled with escabeche.
And, as always, no faltó la cidrina, the Asturias habit we can’t seem to break. Enrique snoozed in his stroller, obviously to our cider-fueled laughter and clinking glasses.
Even though the day was only halfway over, it was the broche de oro on baby’s first trip.
Have you ever been to Western Asturias? We’re planning on making it our thing and would love tips! Be sure to check out La Casona del Faedo near Cudillero and my tips for an Asturias roadtrip!
Asturias is our fave, we stopped going to the Mediterranean altogether in the summer. If you’re in the Llanes region make sure you try las cebollas rellenas (de bonito). Typical from that area 🙂 The hiking is great everywhere and we especially loved Playa de Cue. Get their early in the AM cuz of high tide.. but the way the beach changes is so epic!! Lastly from el mirador del Espíritu Santo in San Esteban de Pravia you can stroll 3km along the cliff high above numerous private coves , eventually you’ll end up in Playa de Aguilar. The views are unreal.
Hi Karlita, we’ve stuck to the Western part but I will definitely keep these in mind. There is so much to see in Asturias – it’s no wonder they call it Paraíso Natural!
Arriving a bit late to the conversation. ¡Me alegra un montón que te preste la tierrina! I’ve only really spent a lot of time in the center, east, and south of the Principado, so after reading this we will make it a point to go west more, and definitely to Casariego. The rías look beautiful! I recommend Navia and Luarca. Castropol is lovely, too. If you head east, I recommend Cangas de Onis, Ribadasella, Llanes, Luanco, Lastres, Villaviciosa, Covadonga, and the Picos de Europa. Aside from my suegra’s, the best fabada I’ve had was in Cangas. Try the cachopo, cabrales, and cabracho anywhere in Asturies. Speaking of hiking and outdoorsy activities, the Principado is a cyclist’s paradise, if you’re into that. You could take Enrique in one of those cool baby bike seats. 🙂
The stuffed onions, are typical from San Martin del Rey Aurelio, mining basin of Nalon.
Las cebollas rellenas, son tipicas de San Martín del Rey Aurelio, Cuenca Minera del Nalón.
I apologize for my English (I don’t speak English)
Oops wrong website
I am planning a trip next year to northern Spain. Do you have any tips as what to see, where to eat, etc. Love your site.
Thanks
Hi Aida! Gracias for reading. Northern Spain is quite large, so pop me and email and let me know if you have any areas you’d like to hit. Saludos!
Tapia de Casariego fue el primer lugar de Europa en sembrar maíz
Tapia de Casariego was the first place from Europe in plant corn
http://historiasjasm.blogspot.com.es/2016/05/cuate-prestome-lo-que-enviaste.html
Qué curioso!
Asturias is so lovely! I can’t imagine traveling with a young baby, but it sounds like you’re doing a fantastic job of it. It must have been amazing seeing his reactions to everything. I may very well be reading his travel blog 20 years from now!
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Wouldn’t that be crazy?!
Really enjoyed that! I’ve travelled thru an internal argument over the last 26 years where I initially thought I needed to be by the sea (8 years in Plymouth, UK including Uni), to thinking being by water would be ok (call them my “ambition” years!) in Somerset & Northants, before returning to as close to my home county as I could. I am now most at peace in Extremadura (as you know), but the lure of a peaceful coastline is delightful! Thank you…. (& the Bears won on Sunday! ⬇)
This looks absolutely great! Asturias is high on my list and that side house looks absolutely divine.
By side house of course I mean cider house #autocorrectfail
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It’s one of the best parts of Asturias!
I couldn’t agree more about needing a body of water. I’m from California though so I need an ocean or a sea :). I love these types of little fisherman towns that don’t have big crowds and make you feel like you are going back a bit in time-
When we went to Lugo and Las Playas (Catedrale) we LOVED Rinlo for these same reasons.
Looks like you guys have already figured out how to travel with a baby and still have fun-good work! 🙂
I’m a little nervous for my husband to fly alone with him to Germany in a few weeks – he can’t breastfeed for comfort! Enjoy Asturias!
Must be such a joy watching your child discover the world and finding such pleasure in it. I’m sure it’s not all laughter though.
Looks like a lovely corner of the world. I’ll have a cider too, please!
It was mostly all smiles, though he was changing to solid foods at the same time. He’s a very good baby by nature, thankfully!
What a beautiful destination. I always fall in love with smaller cities and this one just looks so idyllic. I’m not really a big water person, but there’s something so delightful about visiting a little fishing village–and having the freshest fish that you can get.
It looks so beautiful there, the pictures look amazing. Thanks for sharing. And travelling with a baby must add so much to the adventure!
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hola Cat, the pictures with your son are absolutely beautiful, i hope that you all are having and enjoying cada momento!
Muchas gracias, Pedro! He’s a treat 🙂
de nada Cat, probably soon i shall be travelling from Murcia to Asturias driving my own car, if you are in Madrid then it would be great to meet you all and have a beer or two!
I really need to get back up north soon. CAn’t wait to explore Asturias and the whole coast line more. Lovley post!
Great post! those pics are memorable and amazing!
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