Vía Crucis de Santiponce: Semana Santa Lite
Torches lined the gravel path, which inclined ever-so-slightly upwards. Mari Carmen had taken hold of my arm and was pulling me forward through the crowds as pebbles rolled out of…
Seville Snapshots: Costaleros Practicing for Holy Week
The capataz knocks once. As if mechanically, the 40-off men beneath the wooden structure heave together, resting on their heels, hands gripping the wooden beams above their heads. A second…
Seville Snapshots: Calle Pureza, the heart of Triana
"Soy Ana, de la Calle Pureza" Kelly never fails to let people believe she's trianera, a resident of the Triana neighborhood of Seville. When I called this barrio home for…
Spring in Seville means incense, solito and pasos.
Seville Snapshots: Who’s That Nazareno?
Smell that? It's incense. Feel that? That's some sevillano whose trying to push his way past you. Yes, amiguitos, Holy Week is upon us, the stretch of time between Viernes…
My Favorite Holy Week Bars in Seville
Danny and I decided to make one last stop for the night, mostly fueled by our bladders than our ganas for another beer. I ordered a Coke and dipped into…
Seville Snapshots: Santa Catalina Church
When my friend Nancy came to visit nearly five years ago, she had two goals in mind: to not eat anything with a head on it, and to see as…