My Seville Superlatives: The Best of the Andalusian Capital

Updated in January 2026 with an extra decade of experience.

After eighteen years calling Seville my home, I’ve come to know the city and its nuances – from the best places to eat in Seville (I’ll always go with my old favorites), Seville’s hidden gems and the best of the best

The Best of the Best

Here’s my curated collection of the Best of the Best in Seville travel guide, in an order as random as the streets of Santa Cruz:

Best in Culture & Heritage

Seville is what you conjure when you think of Spain – whitewashed buildings sidling up to colorful doors, flamenco chords slicing through the balmy evening, locals spilling out of tapas bars. You literally trip on culture in Seville – it’s a rich city that teeters between the old and new, and it borders on sensual.

Best can’t-miss attraction: Plaza de España. It’s free (for now), always open and is a special part of Seville’s history. Built nearly a century ago by famed sevillano architect Aníbal González and crowning the Parque María Luisa, the tiles, benches and moats were the focal point of the 1929 Ibero-American Fair. Go early in the morning or at the twilight to avoid crowds and the people hawking inexpensive fans.

Best for architecture lovers: I’m from Chicago, so I appreciate the nuances In a building or civil design perhaps more than most. And while literally every corner of Seville has something eye-catching, I will always recommend the rooftop tour of the Cathedral. Apart from being the third-largest cathedral in the world, it’s one of the city’s most iconic elements, and you can get up close and personal with the Giralda bell tower.

A view of Seville from the Setas

Best traditional experience: Toros? Tapas? Horse carriage? There are many “typically Spanish” things to do in Seville, and some of my favorites aren’t a single activity or place, but simply a long meal that stretches into the afternoon copas. Be open to walking until a terrace or a tavern calls to you, and let the hours slip away.

Best Flamenco Show: Admittedly, I’m not a huge follower of flamenco, but everyone I have sent to Casa de la Memoria, housed in an old palace on Calle Cuna, has not left disappointed. For kids, there are matinee and early performances at the Museo del Baile Flamenco.

Best Tour to Dive Into History: Seville is brimming with history, and of literally every single sort you can think of. And while I’ve been on a number of them, I cannot recommend Seville a la Carta enough. They go beyond the simple history of the city and pointing out monuments. Think the macabre, the weird or even bucking all the things you think you knew about the city.

Julia is admittedly a close friend of mine (she planned an 80s-themed birthday party for my 40th!), but her enthusiasm and deep knowledge is impressive. She offers be-spoke experiences and speaks English, Spanish and French.

Best Place to Catch Something Cultural Without Planning It: The Patio de la Diputación almost always has something on during the weekends and summer. Think movies, talks and free food samples.

 

Best in Food & Drink

Gone are the days when you’d see your dish being microwaved in the open kitchen – Seville has reinvented its gastronomic scene in a million ways in the last 15 years. From traditional to trendy, you can find just about anything in town (well, just about anything Spanish). There’s a long way to go before we have decent international cuisine, but all of your Spanish favorites are on the menu here.

Try pringá, espinacas con garbanzos, pescaíto frito, huevos a la flamenca. Wash it down with a sherry or cold Cruzcampo, the local beer. Wash, rinse, repeat.

Best tapas bar for locals: My forever favorite will be Bodeguita Antonio Romero, and I always take guests here. Kitchen is open all day, you stand at the bar or teeter on a stool, and the menu has something for everyone – plus, it’s not expensive. Sample the piripi sandwich – pork slathered in garlicky mayonnaise with a strip of bacon, a tomato wedge and a slice of cheese. I always order two.

La Dalia Tapas Sevilla Croquetas

Best sweet treats: Manu Jara pastries are an absolute dream because he uses butter instead of olive oil. The Triana location Calle Pureza, 2, doesn’t have tables, but you can take your coffee and treat to Calle Betis and sit along the river. Or, grab a table on the top floor of the Corte Inglés – Duque and enjoy views of the Giralda.

Best spots for a long sobremesa: There is nothing quite like a sobremesa, the languid time between lunch and afternoon drinks, sitting around a table chatting and nursing a cortado in between a few bites of something sweet. Sobremesa is a Spanish institution and one of the best ways to spend a weekend afternoon (in my opinion, best done at someone’s house, but then again, sevillanos consider the street to be their living room.

While most places close around 5 p.m. after lunch, you’ll find a few places willing to let you linger. Try Princepico in Parque de los Príncipes, Bar Barraba’s (Museo is the elite pick for tardeo) or Mentidero near Jardines de Murillo.

mercado san miguel madrid seafood

Best Local Market: I’m partial to two – Mercado de Feria‘s is set in a crumbling building next to a church with a bar on two of the four corners. In one of those bars, you can actually buy something from a fish stall and have it served up! There are also small tascas for nibbles with your beer, and the plaza directly behind the market gets delicious midday sun.

The other is my local market, el Mercado de San Gonzalo. It’s gritty and cheap and was one of the area’s first permanent buildings. Rafa carves up jamón, Curro has the cold botellines and Curro’s son’s olive selection is top.

Best Food Tour: Seville is a dream for gastro travelers: budget-friendly, accessible and full of dishes and experiences to try. I’ve been invited on loads of cool tours but think my favorite would be Devour Spain‘s part-history, part-gastronomy tour.

Best Food to Try, Just BecauseCaracoles, or snails. Look for them in the springtime. I prefer them to, say, coagulated blood in onions.

drinking beer in spain

Best Bar Manolo: Call it what you want – Bar Manolo, Bar de Viejos or Old Man Bar, but these establishments are seriously the salt of the Spanish earth. You get beer, house wine, vermouth and a shot of anís on the menu, but what they lack in choice they make up for in character.

In my neighborhood I hit La Estrellita and Tasca Triana; in Santa Cruz, Bodega Santa Cruz or El Goleta for orange-infused wine, or Bodega La Aurora in Alfalfa.

Really, if there’s a Spanish abuelo outside, I’ll go in.

Best Tapas Bar: I’m often asked about where to dine in Seville, and while this is an entirely personal question, I always suggest La Azotea. Inventive takes on traditional and local fare, plus an unbeatable wine list and terrific service. I usually head to the one in Santa Cruz. Another favorite is Bodeguita Antonio Romero, which has loads of different types of dishes for any taste.

Best Chocolate con Churros: Churros on a Sunday morning are one of my treasured traditions, and none are as good as the ones at Bar La Rueca in Plaza del Juncal. It’s a trek unless you’re in Nervión. For something closer to the center, Bar El Comercio is a good substitute.

best churros in Seville

Best Menú del Día: three parts food and a million parts a wallet-saver, the menú del día is a fixed-price menu with two entrees, dessert, drink and bread for cheap. As tourism has changed and laborers move outside the city, these are sadly tougher to find unless you head to the periphery of the city.

That said, Ô Delice, the Lycée Français International Seville’s on-campus bar, serves a plentiful and delicious one Monday thru Friday. Chufi is a classically trained chef who sources the food himself. The menu will run you 10,50€ (you can also get a half menu) – tell him La Cat sent you!

Best Cruzcampo Bar: Loaded question. It seems that, in Seville, you’re never more than 100 feet from a bar or an ATM, and the question of who has the best pour is largely debated. I’ll go with my perennial favorite, La Grande in Triana, or non-descript La Melva in Sector Sur, and also give a shout to El Tremendo in Santa Catalina

Carrera Oficial Semana Santa Sevilla

Best Semana Santa Bar: I always take my visitors to a church to explain Seville’s reverance to Holy Week, and follow up with a beer at a Semana Santa bar, covered with relics and photos of this important celebration. I either do the Esperanza de Triana and Bar Santa Ana route, or skip the church and head right to La Fresquita in Santa Cruz, where the barkeep is a member of the Macarena and has a botafumeiro going every so often.

Best Terrace Bar: As long as we’re talking about bars, rooftop bars are a great way to spend the languid afternoon hours between sightseeing. There are loads clustered around the Cathedral that boast incredible views, but you’ll pay (I once put down 14€ for a non-alcoholic drink while pregnant). If you head out a bit further, you’ll still have incredible views while not sacrificing your souvenir euros. Try Pura Vida to get up close an personal with a bit of a vibe or Terraza 1912.

Best Scoop of Ice Cream: Ice cream shops abound, but my favorite is Verdú in Triana – my local scoop. Who can resist cream of torrijas (a Spanish French Toast) or lemon with mint sorbet?

ice cream at La Fiorentina Seville

Best Tortilla de Patatas: Spain’s cuisine is rich with options, many that are regional. But the Spanish omelette? The only question here is whether or not you want it with onions(and the only acceptable answer is yes). I have tried a lot, and my favorite in Seville is at Bar Zuburán, tucked into a small plaza near the Setas. Go early to get a table, as they don’t take reservations and are very popular.

Best Disco: I am not the person to be asking about this (look for me instead at the Bar Manolos), but I like Alfonso in Parque María Luisa during the summer months.

Best Montaíto de Pringá: This mincemeat sandwich is one of Seville’s culinary claims to fame, and most traditional tapas bars will have it on the menu. For me, Bodega Santa Cruz‘s is top notch and a perfect, hot snack if I’m in the Santa Cruz neighborhood.

Best Traditional Breakfast: I wasn’t a huge fan of breakfast until I moved to Southern Spain and got coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice and bread with crushed tomato and olive oil for 2.50€. It ruined me. If I am craving something traditional, I love La Esquina del Arfe in the El Arenal district or PLACE WITH HAYLEY.

Best Brunch: I used to travel to Madrid for a decent brunch, but they’re now all over the place in Seville! Billy Brunch is a popular one, and it has all of your favorites – eggs, pancakes, açai and detox juices for after your tapas binge.

 

 

Best in Tourism & Sightseeing

My sister – who has been to Seville half a dozen times – recently stated that there is nothing to do in town. She could not be more wrong. Seville has upped its cultural offerings to be more than museums and pretty buildings, and you can find plenty of ways to see and experience the city.

Best Barrio to Stay in: Crowning a neighborhood as queen of them all is difficult because of taste. I’m partial to a few for their cultural and gastronomical offering, and am a big fan of mi querida Triana. I also like bullfighting neighborhood El Arenal, hip Feria with its weekly flea market, El Jueves, and even Alameda is growing on me.

The streets of Santa Cruz, Seville

If you’re coming on a short visit, I would recommend staying near the Setas / Encarnación. You’ll be walking distance to just about everything – everything but a metro station, truthfully.

Best photo-friendly corners: I find myself taking snaps of the same things after all this time: the colorful buildings in Barrio Santa Cruz, the Puente de Triana, Plaza de España. Get lost in the Feria or San Julián neighborhoods and their tangle of streets instead.

Best Spot for a Selfie: Calle Placentines where it crosses Argote de Molina, has the best unobstructed view of the Giralda tower. You can get the entire Giralda in for free (though if you’re willing to pay, take the Cathedral Rooftop Tour).

Best iconic landmark: Seville’s skyline has long had the Giralda piercing the skyline, but the Puente de Triana at sunset is my ultimate pick!

Best Souvenir to bring home: If your carry-on can handle it, the hand-painted ceramics on sale in Triana’s shops are my favorite things to buy for friends. Check Calle San Jorge and spend an hour in the Ceramics Museum if you have the time.

Best Museum: I love a good museum, and Seville is bursting with them. Seriously – this city is 2000 years old! From Flamenco to Fine Arts, ceramics to horse carriages. Espacio Santa Clara isn’t technically a museum, but hosts exhibitions throughout the year in an old nunnery. Find it near the Alameda in the Macarena neighborhood.

Espacio Santa Clara Fountain Seville

Best Place to Watch a Sunset: As the popular song goes, El sol duerme in Triana y nace en Santa Cruz. My favorite place to see the sun go down is on the banks of the Guadalquivir with a clear view to the Triana bridge that links the city center to my neighborhood. There are loads of bars to stop for a tipple that way, as well.

Best Museum You’ve Never Heard Of: Parque María Luisa’s Casa de la Sciencia was a huge surprise for us! Housed in one of the pavilions from the 1929 Iberoamerican Expo, the building itself retains its decoration, and you’ll find permanent exhibits exploring Andalusia’s flora, fauna and geology, plus rotating exhibits on science and technology. My kids learned about the brain, memory and Santiago Ramón y Cajal, one of my elder son’s heroes.

Best Tourist Attraction to Skip and Spend that Money on Tapas: The Torre del Oro and it seafaring museum are largely disappointing, and the view from the top isn’t any better from it because of large plexiglass barriers. On that note, the mirador at the Torre de Sevilla is also lackluster. Better to take in the views from a terrace bar!

Best Splurge: Seville can be done on the dirt cheap (hostels, bocadillos and beer buckets at La Sureña) or you can make it lavish. While it could be tempting to stay and play at Seville’s only 5-Star hotel, Alfonso XII, I’d vote for the hammam and massage at Aire de Sevilla, tucked away in Santa Cruz. I also enjoyed my massage at Massages SVQ, also in Santa Cruz.

Best local products to bring home: Fans, mantón de manilla, ceramics. Seville has lovely handicrafts, but you can’t go back home without olive oil. Nab a few bottles at La Oleoteca Sevilla, a gourmet olive oil shop in El Arenal.

cordoba guadalquivir river

Best Day Trip: Sadly, Seville doesn’t have too many quaint towns or natural highlights. While I’d spring to go to San Nicolás del Puerto at any free chance and hike the Vía Verde, I usually send other visitors to Córdoba. A 45-minute train ride straight to a quainter version of Seville and home to as Spanish of a corn dog as you can get, the flamenquín.

 

Best in Family

I may get in trouble for saying this, but for as friendly as Spain is for families, it does not bend its long-seeded cultural rules for kids. That’s why you’ll see kids running around plazas after midnight come the summer! But I loved having young kids in Seville.

Best outdoor spaces: Parque María Luisa is charming and has a bunch of resident pigeons (your kids will love paying a euro to feed them), but Parque del Alamillo is sprawling and includes a zip line and far less flying rats. Both include places to grab a granizado or a quick bite.

Bike Tour Torre del Oro

Best neighborhood strolls: If you’re looking for a neighborhood that has a bit of everything, check out La Alameda. There’s a wide promenade anchored by two parks, dancing fountains for the summer, plenty of bars and restaurants for a snack – including a pizza by the slice window. It’s also easy to reach from many other barrios.

Best rainy day activity: Head to Isla de la Cartuja and to the Torre Sevilla mall. Anchored by a shopping plaza, there are places to eat (VIPS and Burger King are my kids’ favorite), covered shopping areas, a mirador and a Caixa Forum with great programming for kids.

Trampoline parks are usually outside of the city center but close enough to take a taxi. My kids prefer Party Jump and Jump Yard, both in the Aljarafe. Just be aware you should book ahead if it’s raining.

Best flamenco for kids: What dance obsessed little kid can come to Seville and not partake in a show? The Museo del Baile Flamenco offers matinee shows at noon and 5 p.m. daily to adjust to siesta times and toddler meltdowns. Kids pay just XX, and you can pair the show with a visit to the museum.

Best foods for kids in Seville: Dining out can be a bit tricky between meal times that coincide with nap time (or are after bed time!) and new foods. Seville also has a reputation for fried food.

Most meals come with potatoes in some form, mini hamburgers are easy to find on tapas menus, and you can usually get a bikini (grilled cheese with a slice of boiled ham). Other things to consider are lagrimitas de pollo (fried chicken), croquetas with various fillings, and cold cut plates. Bread baskets come with every meal, in case you’re really desparate.

 

Best in Seasonal & Events

There’s a local joke that goes something along the lines of having a religious procession, a big concert, a neighborhood 5K and a soccer match all at once, and often in the same corner of the city. Seville has made a serious push to host large events (I can’t believe I stepped away from international education right before CIS Forum!) and become a cultural hub. I’m still in shock I saw Justin Timberlake perform last summer but also join sevillanos in groaning about traffic and road closures as a result.

La Feria en Crisis

Best Month for SevillanosApril. Orange trees are in blossom, the weather is perfect, Cruzcampo seems to taste better and, if we’re really lucky, both Semana Santa and Feria fall in April.

Best Month to Visit: I usually push for OctoberMarch and April because of the weather and cheaper prices. But seriously, Seville has a lot to offer whenever you come – even in the stifling summer months!

seville guadalquivir river

Best Local Festival: If you’ve read my blog long enough, you’ll know the cattle fair-turned Andalusian showcase the Feria de Abril is my favorite, but I’ll give the Velá de Santa Ana and Holy Week each a nod, too.

Best festive-season traditions: Seville has really stepped it up at Christmas, but you’ve got to pace yourself: belénes around the city recount the Nativity, Christmas lights are everywhere, and small pop-up markets about. One of my favorites is the Recoveco market, held in various shops clustered in the San Julián neighborhood, typically in weekends in December. You’ll find handmade goodies here from local artists.

Best summer-night vibes: Seville used to be a ghost town in the summer, where locals would flock to the coast to escape the heat. More and more people are opting to stay in the city during the summer – the city is a ghost town between noon and 8 p.m. but nights are lovely. From open air discos to movies in the park to simply popping down to a plaza, it’s important to not count the summer out (and to fill up on granizados and ice cream!).

cordoba tiles

 

Best of Seville FAQS

How many days do I need in Seville?

I’ve lived in Seville for 18 years and have yet to experience it all. If you’re coming for the first time and want to take things at a leisurely pace, I would do three days and two nights – add an extra day if you want to daytrip to Córdoba or Granada.

Is Seville a good place to visit with kids?

Raising my own two kids in Seville has been a positive experience. While the parks in the center of the town are not well-kept, kids have plenty of space to roam, will like the experience of tapas, and can find ways to stay busy between museums and other exhibits. Be sure to indulge in a siesta and remember that kids go everywhere in Spain, so you can give them a bit of a long leash while in town!

How can I get more information about moving to Seville?

There’s been an uptick in North American expats to Seville since COVID, and I don’t think it will slow. Your local consulate is the best place to start asking questions about your visa, working in Spain and settling, and you can check out James Blick’s extensive YouTube series and move abroad masterclass for more. Facebook groups like Expats Seville are also a solid resource.

Plaza del Altozano Triana

Seville seems to have one foot firmly in the past and another stepping towards the future. It’s constantly changing within its parameters but hold true to its values and customs. In eighteen years, I’ve explored every inch of the city center and a number of barrios, become a fierce supporter of a local team, learned the lingo and have come to feel like one of them – I am even in the process of getting a Spanish passport.

Challenge me on anything, and you’ll give me something to do at the weekend! Or, if you liked this post and want to take it with you, why not download the GPSMyCity app and purchase the GPS-enabled guide? Your dollars help run this site!

 

Tapa Thursdays: the Best Ice Cream Shops in Seville

Updated October 2025 – prime ice cream time, right?

It’s 8pm on a Friday night, and I’m currently shuttered in my office, typing away at a computer with the shades drawn and the fan on. They may say ‘hasta el 40 de mayo, no te quites el sayo’ but summer came early and Seville has practically become a ghost town for the next two months – especially on the weekends.

It’s hard to beat the heat in Seville, so I rely on my air conditioning and a change in my diet to help me cope with the sweltering afternoon sun and the humid air that hangs over the Guadalquivir valley year round. And that change in diet goes by three words: ICE CREAM LUNCH.


Seville ice cream

There’s no shortage of heladerías in the Andalusian capital, and the golosa in me loves that I could walk into any convenience store, tobacco stand or restaurant and find a popsicle or drumstick. As the kid who ate ice cream for breakfast in high school, however, not just anything will do – and especially not the chains popping up in the touristic hotspots.

Here are the best ice cream shops in Seville.

Bolas: whimsical flavors rooted in Sevilla lore

The brainchild of a local pastry chef and an American entrepreneur, this new kid on the block has the most imaginative flavors – and they’re muy de aquí: think infused orange blossom, torrijas and even gazpacho! There’s always a line out the door for their natural, delicious scoops, and you can find their truck at festivals and events.

My pick: I will try anything once, and this goes for the

Price range: 3,50€ for a scoop in a cone or cup, but you should definitely splurge to try two flavors at once.

Find it at: any of their three central locations: Calle Herbolarios, Calle Orfila, or Calle Feria. All locations are open from 11 a.m. until 12:30 a.m.; 1 a.m. on the weekends.

Créeme: a vegan option in the center

I recently had a playdate with an italia-spanish vegan family, and they brought tubs of gelato for merienda around the pool. Anchoring Plaza del Museo, Creeme has both vegan and non-vegan options in traditional flavors. Is there any better combo than cones and kids in a pool?

My pick: I’ve only tried the pistachio (and, really, who goes to an Italian gelatería to get anything other than pistachio) and hazaelnut, but I loved the texture and taste of both.

Price range: 3,50€ for a small cone or cup.

Find it at: Plaza del Museo, 2, a few steps from the shopping district. Hours vary by day, but count on it opening at 1:30 p.m. and closing between 11 p.m. and 12:30 a.m.

ice cream at La Fiorentina Seville

Rayas: the grandaddy of them all.

I had heard of Rayas long before moving to Seville thanks to a number of friends having studied abroad here. The granddaddy of ice cream shops in the Hispalese capital has two locations in the center and all of the usual suspects, from chocolates to vanillas to mint and strawberry.

You won’t get anything too inventive here, but the ice cream is smooth and natural.

My pick: I’m not as big on Rayas as most people who consider it the undisputed king of heladerías in Seville. I’ll usually go for the cheesecake.

Price range: You pay for the name at Rayas – prices start at 5.50€ for a small cone or cup.

Find it at: Rayas has two centrally located shops, one on Reyes Católicos/San Pablo and the other directly across the street from Plaza Cristo de Burgos on Almirante Apodaca.

Verdú: the out-of-the-way gem

One warm spring night, I hopped from beers and snails – my ultimate combo – to ice cream thanks to some neighborhood friends. I’d walked by this nondescript shop dozens of times but never bothered to sample their gelato.

Wow, I was missing out. So much so, that Verdú has been named as one of the best ice cream shops in Spain per National Geographic. They say, “It’s worth going out of the way for.” And I have it practically across the street.

Heladeria Verdu

I’m not a big chocolate eater and instead prefer a sorbet, and Verdú’s fabrication process – which follows Valencian ice cream making rules – produces light, fruity flavors. They’ve even been lauded by Lonely Planet as one of the best shop

My pick: Manzana verde (green apple) and mango are delightful, and you can get the standard chocolate/vanilla/strawberry here, too.

Price range: 2€ and above.

Find it at: The original Verdú – complete with old school signage – is at Esperanza de Triana, 3. There’s a newly opened branch on López de Gomara, 17, just a few steps from my house. Both are open daily from 11am to 1:30am during the deason (typically mid-May until mid-September, though the original location usually stays open until the ice cream tubs are empty.

Freskura: an afterparty treat in Alameda

Admittedly, I haven’t been to Feskura in years but love that the Alameda has a go-to shop with great reviews and even better service. The shop also boasts, apart from artisan ice cream and two dozen flavors, gourmet cakes and options for people with intolerances and allergies.

Price range: Prices hover around 3,20€ for a scoop; more for the delectable cakes.

Find it at: Vulcana, 4, just off of the Alameda de Hércules. Open daily from 12pm – midnight; Fridays and Saturdays until 1 a.m.

 

ice cream at heladeria llinares valencia

Don’t worry too much – for every ice cream cone I eat during the summer, I’m also drinking a liter of gazpacho.

Have any favorite ice cream shops in Seville to share? Want to beat the heat without sweating as Barrio Santa Cruz sends you in circles? Consider the GPS-enabled posts available on GPSMyCity, including Seville’s helado hotspots! A portion of your purchase comes right back to the site for upkeep and maintenance.

Desafío Eterno: Learning to Cook Spanish Food at the Mercado de Triana

I may have mastered the art of midday siestas, long lunches and dropping syllables, but Spanish cooking has always alluded me.

A Spanish Cooking Course

Ask me to make a full turkey dinner or a kick ass pad thai? I’m all over it, but I’ve mangled even the simplest of Spanish dishes and count gazpacho and frying potatoes (or just bringing the wine) as my contribution to meals.

Resolute to prove to the Novio that I’m only good for eating and occasionally clearing up the dishes, I visited my local market for a crash-course in slow-cooking with Foodies&Tours.

Housed in the mythical Mercado de Triana, once an open-air market built in the 19th Century, Víctor and Marta set up a state-of-the-art kitchen overlooking ruins of the Castillo de San Jorge just seven months ago. I was delighted to see that they still believed in buying fresh ingredients at the market, making chicken stock from bones and leek and – gasp! – using butane tanks.

el mercado de triana

María led us through the market that mid-week morning on a day where there were more tourists than locals snapping photos of ham legs and fins-and-all swordfish. Summer fruits were beginning to slowly engulf the avocados and pomegranates. I kept my mouth shut when María pointed out tripe and the different legumes on offer, but I couldn’t help piping up that it takes three years to adequately cure the hind leg of an acorn-fed pig (blame my pork-loving in-laws for that!).

Spanish food has recently become the darling of international cuisine thanks to innovative chefs putting a spin on age-old traditions. After all, the wealth of fresh ingredients from the Mediterranean diet and a dedication to simplistic yet layered flavors have made this gastronomy healthy, comforting and delicious – and this means that food tours and gastronomic experiences are booming all over Spain.

Taller Andaluz de Cocina in the Triana market

I was joined by another American woman, a group of Filipina friends on a big Euro trip, a curious couple from Singapore and newlyweds hailing from Australia. It was just right for everyone to put their manos a la obra.

Back at the kitchen, chef Víctor was washing metal bowls and our ingredients were put on display. I may not cook myself, but I do make most of the grocery store runs and can recite dishes based on their ingredients! From the ripe vine tomatoes and day-old bread, I knew we’d be making salmorejo and assumed that crowd-favorite paella would be on offer. A large bowl of raw spinach meant espinacas con garbanzos.

modern kitchen of Taller Andaluz de Cocina

I found a cutting board and apron between Denise from New York and the cooking surface as Víctor laid out the menu. We began with the creamy tomato-based salmorejo: coarsely chopping tomatoes, peeling thin skin off of the purple garlic bulbs and learning not to be stingy with extra virgin olive oil. Apart from turning on a blender and liquifying its contents, I let my classmates take over.

I once again stepped aside to allow other guests to learn how to steam the raw spinach and make a sofrito, preferring to sip on wine and do some more chopping – I have the Novio at home to show me how to quarter a chicken for stock. Instead, I probed Víctor on his background, his favorite places to eat in Seville and the Spanish brands he is loyal to.

learning to make salmorejo

Many of my classmates were used to the flash cooking styles of Asian cuisine, so turning down the heat and turning up the flavor combinations was a welcome departure as we dipped small tasting spoons into everything we’d created. A fan of Asian food himself, Víctor stressed the important of low heat and long wait times.

I’ve always said that my biggest hurdle to learning to make Spanish dishes is patience. A Spanish chef confirmed it. So we waited, slowly stirring the chicken stock and sofritos.

salmorejo cordobés

Three hours later, the paella had finished soaking up chicken stock, the beer has been poured and we were ready to eat. While the sobremesa – mealtime chat – wasn’t as lively as my finca experience in Málaga, the workshop was more hands on. In fact, there was little more chatter than ‘mmmmm’ as we tucked in and Víctor prepared us a palate cleanser.

The cumin in the spinach with chickpeas, the laced leek in the paella and a tinge of garlic translated through the other tastes, a clear sign that we’d done something right under watchful eyes.

[yumprint-recipe id=’2′] Did I personally learn any new kitchen tricks? I suppose, but a blast of Saharan heat has had me out of the kitchen and even skipping dinner these last few weeks. The one thing that still rings true is my devotion to Spanish food and everything that goes into it – fresh ingredients, bursts of flavor and the sobremesa chatter.

Have you ever done a cooking course or food tour? Read about A Cooking Day, Devour Barcelona and Devour Seville food experiences. 

Photo Post: La Hermandad Rociera de Triana and the Pilgrimage to El Rocío

“No, no, no,” Lucía shook her head fiercely as curls of white smoke escaped from her lips. “You shouldn’t be in Cerro de Águila by yourself. Crime is rampant over there.”

That following morning at the Novio’s new house in Cerro, I was woken up by the fourth-floor shaking as what sounded like a loud pop boomed throughout. I ran into the bathroom and slammed the door behind me.

Turns out the potential guns from the ‘crime capital’ of Seville were actually noisemakers of the neighborhood’s religious brotherhood.

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Fifty days after Resurrection Sunday, those faithful to the Virgen del Rocío (which is practically all of Southern Spain) make a pilgrimage towards La Aldea, a small hamlet full of stately mansions and dirt roads. The striking hermitage – a grandiose white mirage set at the southern edge of la Aldea with views to the marshes of Doñana National Park – was first built on the supposed spot where Alfonso the Wise found an effigy of the Virgin Mother. Today, it’s popular for its most raucous fiesta in the middle of the springtime. 

Seville counts five hermandades – Savlador and Triana are the most famous – whose numbers are staggering. On the Wednesday before Pentecost Sunday, covered wagons pulled by oxen, horses or even tractors set out towards the Almonte and la Aldea, following a silver-laden carriage with an image of the Rocío known as a simpecado. For many of the devout, this spiritual cleansing, characterized by sleeping and eating outdoors, song and dance and prayer, is the most important part.

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When I worked in Olivares, many of my students went missing in the days leading up to El Rocío and the days surrounding Pentecost. I had a handful named Rocío or Paloma in homenage to the Virgin Mary who, quite possible, is the most revered in Andalucía. 

Few things get me out of bed before 8am, but today I was already out the door at that time, Camarón fully charged and ready to shoot (the cohetes would have woken me up regardless). Mass at the chapel on calle Evangelista began at 7:30am, and the simpecado, preceeded by horses and pilgrims, left shortly thereafter. In the past, the carretas that carry supplied for the ten-day pilgrimage were allowed to traverse Triana, but city ordinance now mandate that the wagons start from Plaza Chapina at the northern end of the neighborhood.

romeros ready for El Rocio

Devout pilgrims at el Rocio

Romeros on Calle Pureza Triana

I followed the crowd to Calle Pureza and the door of the Esperanza de Triana church. Here, in one of the most emblematic monuments of the barrio, the simpecado would pass, the devout would pray and the pilgrimage would truly begin.

Perched on the curb just opposite the gleaming white temple, itself a nod to its marisma counterpart 70 kilometers west, I watched as romeros – the name for pilgrims around these parts – flooded the streets. Men wear straw hats and women don flamenco dresses that are easier to walk in, all clutching medals that bear the Virgen del Rocío.

Rocio Fashion 2015

carretas of El Rocio

Gitanas El Rocio

A three-piece band led the procession. Sevillanas with a twist, rocieras use a cane and a bass drum instead of cajas and flutes in place of guitars, and singers belt out songs proclaiming the glory of the Blanca Paloma. Behind them came romeros on horseback and the image of the Virgen herself.

music of el Rocio

prensa en el rocio

Triana to El Rocio on horseback

romeros
Romeros de Triana 2015

Calle Pureza during El Rocio

El Rocio passing by the Esperanza de Triana

Once the simpecado had reached the door of the church, pulled by two oxen, a man on horseback removed his had and, red faced, began to rally.¡Viva La Virgen del Rocío! ¡Viva la Blanca Paloma!¡Viva la Marismeña! Each battle cry was followed by a hearty ¡Viva! 

“¡Y Viva Triana! ¡Viva Triana! ¡Viva Triana!”

Salida del Simpecado Rociero

 

Everyone around me erupted into song as petals were thrown from the roof of the church. While El Rocío has a steady dose of hedonism, the true root of the festival lies in soul-stirring devotion. I felt moved in the same way that Semana Santa touched me. People stopped shoving and began to cry, crossing themselves as they proclaimed that only in Heaven is the Virgen del Rocío more loved.

Want to read more about the festival? I attended the Pentecost Sunday activities –¡vestida de gitana! – in 2012.

Three Reasons Why Seville is a Foodie Haven

“So we’re initially going to just be making plans for cervezas and tapas, correct?” One of my closest friends was just a few weeks away from his trip to Seville, and he’d planned the itinerary for me: a week of eating, drinking and catching up (and that’s just what we did!).

Spain's best city for Foodies

When it comes to showing friends, family and even readers my adopted city, they see less of the city’s monuments and off-the-beaten track gems, and far more grubby old man bars and fancy gastropubs than museums. My heart is happiest when my belly’s been wined and dined, and I love sharing Seville’s food culture with them.

I’ve eaten my way through Spain, from gastronomic sweetheart San Sebastián to family farms in Málaga, and Seville remains my favorite food city in all of Spain for three very important reasons.

Variety of Choices

If variety is the spice of life, Seville can only be described as zesty. Apart from the serving sizes and types of eateries, the sheer number of bars is dizzying.

While it would be impossible to count the number of bars in the city, figures tend to land in the 4,500 – 6,000 range when it comes to establishments for a bite or sip. Even if I wanted to try every single one, from the hole-in-the-wall abacerías to the Michelin-lauded gastro experience, it would take me years. And the question I get most from my readers, ‘Where should I eat in Seville?’ is harder to answer than you’d think.

Devour Seville Tours

Taking a mid-morning tapas tour with Devour Seville, a food tour company with operations in four Spanish cities confirmed that. In fact, Lauren and I mused about other places that Devour Seville could have included on their four-hour tour through Seville’s central neighborhoods. Andalucía’s flamboyant capital has no shortage of choices, and tour guides are even thrilled to make recommendations for dinner.

So, choice is a factor, but it gets even trickier from there. Bar or restaurant? Sit down or stand up? Trendy gastrobar or traditional tavern? Should we split large plates, or have everyone get their own tapas? And just how hungry are we?

What sets Andalusian cities apart from their northern counterparts in many cases is the serving size options you’re allowed. Lauren explained that the word tapa – Spanish cuisine’s global export – has several different origins, though the most common is that bartenders would plop a morsel of food on a thin-lipped sherry glass to keep out fruit flies. This practice, said to have come from Seville’s little sister city of Jerez, is one of the easiest ways to sample and share food. If you’re hungrier, choose a ración or media ración.

seville sandwich city

And, of course, then you have to pare down a menu and decide what to eat and what to drink. The tour had several Andalusian hallmarks but left behind the tortilla, huevos estrellados and gazpacho. After a morning of chowing down, we’d tried eight different dishes, each with a backstory of is origin and the establishment that served it.

Arabic, Roman Influence on Cuisine

In the middle of the morning, Lauren led us to a cluster of churches in the heart of Barrio Santa Cruz. Once a pocket of the city where Jews, Moors and Christians mingled and traded freely, there are traces of culture on every block and hidden beneath the citrus fruit trees that perfume the city and the almond trees planted further east.

Their sugar and egg pastries are baked in convents around the city (many made with oranges, lemons or almonds!), and though Spanish baked goods don’t do much for me, the naranjines we tried were actually sweet with a touch of citrus!

Convent Sweets in Seville

Additonally, Seville was truly the gateway to the New World and Africa, with ships coming and going from the port and bringing products from far off lands. The city grew fat off of riches from its discoveries before the gold and silver was taken to Madrid on the Via de la Plata, but the gastronomic heritage remained.

After a pit stop for a few sips of orange-infused wine, we walked through the city’s historic quarter and into the once-gritty El Arenal neighborhood, where ships were repaired as they unloaded their goodies. The New World brought the tomatoes for your gazpacho, the chocolate you dip your churros into and the potatoes served with just about everything from montaditos to meat dishes.

Typical Taverns in Seville

Another fascinating tidbit of local history lies in the twelve city gates that once punctuated the walled city. As we walked under the Postigo del Carbón, Lauren gave us a run-down of other food-monikered gates to the city, like meat and olive oil. By this time, we’d snacked and tried several sorts of drinks, but we’d worked up enough of an appetite for the main course: tapas.

Walkability

I felt like we walked less on the Devour Seville tour than my previous taste tests with them in Madrid and Barcelona, but Seville is the longest tour! Even after winding through the streets of Encarnación, Santa Cruz and Arenal for four hours, I felt strong enough to have one last beer with another tour-goer at primetime on a sunny Friday!

Walking in Central Seville

All of my guests are surprised at how easy it is to walk around Seville – even if getting lost in the winding, cobblestone alleyways is part of the experience. The city sits at 11m above sea level and there’s one ‘hill’ in the whole place!

Besides, Seville is beautiful, between the tucked-away plazas and tiled entranceways, so it’s easy to be entranced.

How to Tapear in Seville

A true tapas tour doesn’t just settle for one eatery – it’s quite normal for the hungry to go from bar to bar, ordering one drink and one plate before moving on to the next. And don’t expect to sit down at a table. Most tapas bars allow you (or force you if it’s that popular) to eat at the bar itself, giving you the chance to bark your order to the waitstaff without flagging down a frazzled waiter. Bonus points for the bar if they tally your tab in chalk right next to your plates.

Seville Food Tour Samplings

The bars clustered around the city center should be your focus if you’re visiting Seville – check out the bull meat entrées served in El Arenal, choose international dishes and Spanish favorites around El Centro, and opt for al fresco dining in La Alameda.

Be aware that many bars will not have English translations, and if they do, they’ll often leave you just as confused (seriously, I once saw ratatouille listed as ‘tomatoes attacked by angry vegetables’). Start by ordering a few plates – you can always get more if you’re still hungry.

On a Food Tour in Seville

If you’re overwhelmed, leave it to the experts at Devour Seville. This four-hour tour will have you sampling eight dishes, which is enough to feel satisfied without being stuffed. The guides are knowledgable and personable. Prices start at 65€ for their Tastes, Tapas & Traditions tour.

Devour Seville allowed me to tag along on their inaugural tour, though all opinions are my own. I’m a big fan of their mission – to use local vendors and provide customers with a taste of Spain – and their excellently assembled tours!

Have you ever eaten in Seville? What are your favorite places to chow down?

I’ve got loads about food in Seville, from Tapa Thursdays, which highlight foods and restaurants, to recommendations on where to eat in town. My instagram is also full of food and beer photos with fancy filters – follow me!

The A-Z of the Feria de Abril

It’s the happiest time of the year – now that the azahar has bloomed and the gold-laden Holy Week floats have been stored, Seville takes a week to celebrate Andalusian horses, Andalusian sherry and Andalusian music at the April Fair.

The Feria de Abril’s origins lie in a former cattle and livestock fair in the Prado de San Sebastián, though you’d never know it – the biggest and most traditional fair is all about appearances and connections, and it comes with its own set of vocabulary.

Feria de Abril Glossary

For a first-time fairgoer, your senses will be put to the test. The grounds smell of fried fish and horse poop and the music coming from the tents all begins to mix together into a raucous jumble of flamenco, but it’s a visual feast with the lights, the garb and the horses.

I was completely underprepared for the fair my first year – I wore jeans and a ratty shirt, and then wore the wrong types of accessories with my flamenco dress and didn’t know how to dance sevillanas – but look forward to it each year. Like everything in Seville, there are traditions and rules about how to dress and how to act, and the vocabulary that’s used to describe every aspect is used increasingly in the weeks leading up to the big event.

spanish american girls at the feria de sevilla

You’ll already stick out as a foreigner, but here’s a list of 20 indispensable words to know if you’re heading to the Feria de Abril:

Albero: Albero is the sandy mix of terrain that lines the sidewalks of the fairgrounds.

Alumbrado: Happening at midnight on the Lunes (Monday) of Feria, the main gate is lit by the city’s mayor. There are hundreds of thousands of bulbs covering both the portada and the lights along the streets, but they’re all LED!

Amazona: Women choose to wear either a traditional gypsy dress or don a riding outfit to ride side-saddle. An Amazona is a way to call the latter.

Calle del Infierno: Literally translated as ‘Hell Street,’ the Calle del Infierno is located at the western edge of the fairgrounds and has carnival rides, booths and food stands. Keep an extra eye on your purse here.

feria casetas tents farolillos lights in seville spain

Caseta: The makeshift tents that line the streets of the Real. These small structures are owned by families, political parties, businesses or organizations, some of them being private while others public. Each caseta has a kitchen, bathroom and room to dance or eat.

Coche de Caballos: A central element of the fair is the Andalusian horse, and horse carriages circulate on a city-mandated route from noon until 8pm. The permission to bring a horse carriage is only granted to several hundred official carriages, and the licenses are pricey! Just be sure to watch for horse poop!

feria horses april fair seville

Complementos: A traditional dress is nothing without its larger-than-life accessories. Women don shawls (mantoncillos), earrings (pendientes), combs (peinetas) and large flowers, and it’s not uncommon to see bracelets of necklaces, either.

Corrida de Toros: Big-name bullfighters come to Seville during the fair to practice their sport at the Maestranza bull ring. Tickets are pricey and seats are limited. In fact, the names of the streets in the real are named for Andalusian bullfighters, like Juan Belmonte or Curro Romero.

El Pescaíto: The opening meal of the fair, open to members of the casetas, where fried fish is served. This dinner usually commences at 9pm. The day itself is called the lunes de pescaíto.

Enchufe: A catch-all word that means plug in a literal and figurative sense, having connections and invitations to a caseta means you’ve got enchufe. Start asking around a few weeks before Semana Santa to see who has access and who can invite you (in exchange for food and drink, of course!).

Farolillo: Paper lanterns that are strung up in the fairgrounds and lit at night.

me and luna in the door of the caseta

Feriante: an adjective referring to anyone who is a fair-goer. As in, Cat es muy feriante.

Fino: Sherry wine made from Palomino grapes that is consumed by the bucketload. See also: rebujito.

Portero: The doorman in private casetas reserves the right to let you in or not. Flirting sometimes works, but you’re better off saying you know someone inside and will just nip in to look for him.

Portada: Taking on a different design every year, the portada is the main gate that crowns Calle Antonio Bienvenida. It’s covered in lightbulbs and is known as a meeting point (even though ‘Let’s meet under the portada‘ is like saying, I’ll try to look for you somewhere in the city center).

Portada de la Feria 2013

Real de la Feria: The recinto ferial isn’t enough of a name – Seville’s fairgrounds has an upgraded moniker known as the Real de la Feria, or simply el Real. It’s often referred to this way in the press.

Rebujito: This sherry and 7-up hybrid is the drink of choice for many sevillanos during the week. Served in a pitcher with ice and small glasses for sipping, it’s concocted from a half liter of dry sherry and two cans of the soft drink. Be careful – it’s a lot more potent than you’d imagine!

Sevillanas: Locals are known for being rancios – overly traditional – and the only music you’ll hear spilling out of the casetas are rumbas or sevillanas. Sevillanas is a four-part dance in which partners court one another. The basic steps repeat over and over again, but the difficult increases from the first to the fourth parts (and after too much rebujito).

Socio(s): Those with enchufe will likely know socios, or card-carrying members of casetas. Individuals will pay a yearly fee – in addition to whatever they spend – for the maintenance and decor of the caseta. Each one usually elects a president who must hire the food and entertainment, along with the people who erect the tent before the festivities. When the Novio and I were socios, we had to show a special card plus a yearly pass to be able to enter!

Traje de Gitana: Women tend to wear a flamenco dress with ruffles and polka dots, known as a traje de gitana or simply a traje. These garments can cost 500€ or more depending on the fabric, designer and number of ruffles, or volantes, and they are worn with complementos. Some women have multiple dresses so as not to be seen twice in the same traje. The only rule is that the dresses are not worn on the Lunes del Pecaíto.

And a word I taught my Spanish students after my first Alumbrado? Hangover.

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Did I miss any words on the list? What are your favorite feria-esque words?

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