Seville Snapshots: Palm Sunday Processions
I packed my bag hurriedly but with purpose: I'd need sunscreen, lipstick, a street map and my camera with long-distance lens. Nothing more, nothing less. I locked the door and…
Seville Snapshots: Costaleros Practicing for Holy Week
The capataz knocks once. As if mechanically, the 40-off men beneath the wooden structure heave together, resting on their heels, hands gripping the wooden beams above their heads. A second…
Spring in Seville means incense, solito and pasos.
Seville Snapshots: Who’s That Nazareno?
Smell that? It's incense. Feel that? That's some sevillano whose trying to push his way past you. Yes, amiguitos, Holy Week is upon us, the stretch of time between Viernes…
My Favorite Holy Week Bars in Seville
Danny and I decided to make one last stop for the night, mostly fueled by our bladders than our ganas for another beer. I ordered a Coke and dipped into…
The blue-eyed kids are easy!
Nazareno, Nazareno
It's Viernes de Dolores in the Catholic world, so you know what that means: My school is full of nazarenos. Now, I know what your American brains are thinking, but…
Spring in Seville means incense, solito and pasos.
Ya Huele a Primavera
On a popular talk show on Andalucía's Canal Sur called La Semana Más Larga, the host Manu Sánchez recently griped about the recortes going on throughout Spain. But Rajoy just…