Show Me Some Love (and get some back, too)

Readers, we need to have a serious talk.

Things just aren’t, gosh how do I say this, sitting well with me.

Here I am, with a million things to say and no ears (or computer screens) to preach to.

Remember when I had that little blogger blog? With its boring template and crap spellcheck? Well, apparently people were reading that one since I had over 50 followers. This blog, with its own domain name and way cooler, um, everything, has just 11 (OMG THANKS). Seriously where are you guys?

Maybe I’m wrong as to think that just 11 of your read my blog, but I’m getting desperate. I want my own version of a Facebook news feed to show up in your mailbox once or twice a week. I want you to sit next to a good friend of mine on the ORD-MAD route and casually mention you know me (this is a true story courtesy of the Doles). I want you to know what it’s like to be me.

So I’m going to bribe you. After all, it works with my babies (along the lines of, “Be quiet for three minutes and color and I’ll give you each a piece of candy”).  I’m holding a subscription drive. See that little banana-yellow box up there? It says EMAIL SUBSCRIPTION. You put your email in there, and then you write me in the comments. On October 18th, I will pick one winner to receive a gift basket of tapas favorites from Latienda.com, a Spanish food import company if you’re USA or Canada-bound. If you’re here in Spain, I will send you a Christmas lote of about the same price from El Corte Inglés. And if you’re elsewhere, lucky you. I will send you some goodies from Sevilla (maybe even the Duquesa de Alba).

Let’s recap:

Sign up with your email.

Write me in the comments (as WordPress sometimes tells me he “thinks” he knows where someone is from and is often wrong) to tell me you’re in the Cool Kids Club and tell me one thing you’d like to see featured on Sunshine and Siestas. Want to learn more about obnoxious Spanish grammar? Or see more pictures of my pretty face? Or should I not talk about babies at all since they’re germy? I want to know!

Do it before October 18th. Do it now or forever not get your tapas and polverones.

Sign up for my blog? Or are you still as confused as I am over the title of this stand-up show?

On Becoming Pareja de Hecho in Spain

“What’s taking so long at table three?” I asked Kike. “Is there even a man working there?”

It was 3:42, twelve minutes past my appointment at Extranjería. Nervously tapping my toe, I looked over to my starved boyfriend whose unamused face had turned into extreme impatience. I was ok missing twelve more minutes of school but was concerned my pareja wasn’t thrilled to be waiting a few more for his puchero.

When a man with a large nose and equally big smile beckoned me (Kahhfuree-nay May-ree Haaaaa was what came out as my name), Kike pushed past the small group waiting outside the glass-encased funcionario land at the Foreign Residents office and asked permission to sit down.

I had remarked that the newly-renovated space was friendly, with deep blue and green walls, new chairs and an appointment system. The man’s “So, you’re a student and now you’re married” was the only thing that seemed foreign to me. Married, um, no.

Ok, so technically I am married, according to the Spanish government at least. Kike and I opted to do a pareja de hecho, most similar to a civil union in the US, to start the process of me getting permanent resident status. While I can’t ever be fully Spanish or even have a Spanish passport without renouncing my American one, this seemed like the easiest way to eventually live here legally and without a student status. It would only take three years of leaving the EU every 90 days.

Well, times changed at the homosexuals this law was meant to protect wanted full marriage rights. Spain said no, but amplified pareja de hecho laws, taking me on the fast track to free livin’ in Iberia. So, my lawyer says, Oh yeah, you can do this.

And it’s done. My school let me take off the afternoon, smiley face man gave me no frills, and I may just be starting to get REALLL Spanish.

One, Two, Three

Spaniards consider stepping in dog poop lucky. I’ve had the pleasure of being shat on by birds and small children, but the dog poop I’ve only managed once in three years.
I stepped in a big pile the night I met Kate, who incidentally lived on a street full of poop and in a house with a dog that pooped in every rincón of it. I was on my way to catch the 5 bus towards Prado for a Halloween party being thrown by people I didn’t know well enough to actually want to go. But, I had few friends and love Halloween. As I jogged the last few meters to catch the bus, my leg jerked and slipped and I realized I was heel-deep in kakita. Nevermind, there was beer to be drunk.
Kate and I found out we were both from Chicago, big Cubbies fans and living two blocks away from each other. She was the aggressive “BE MY FRIEND OR BEWARE” type that suggested I be her wingman the following weekend.
Two weeks later, she called with a preposition: “Buy a bottle of rum. I’ll be at your house at 10 to botellón.” I had no choice but to comply. When she arrived, she came with a friend. Bearded, fluent in English and Spanish and wielding his own bottle of whiskey, I ignored him.
I intended to stay in Spain for nine months, move back home and start a journalistic career. Then, I fell in love with orange blossoms, azulejos and a very immportant puppy. Just not dog poop everywhere.
So, Keeks, here’s to a happy three years.

Ode to the Too Lame, Too Furious

I’ve seen the better part of Spain from the passenger seat of a 2002 LX Series Mercedes. Up and down the Vía de la Plata, cruising Sevillian streets afterhours as the sun is peaking over the top of the Giralda and hitting beach town after mountain village.

Kike deciding to sell his silver car, affectionately called (HEY! I’m American! I name appliances and inanimate objects!) the Too Lame, Too Furious for its constant trips to the shop, was like losing a finger. The finger I used to point to things like bulls along the highway and monasteries popping up out of nowhere, ruined Moorish castles and strangely named rivers and pueblos. He didn’t even tell me, just a, “Like my new car?”

To be honest, his new car is way cooler and has a similar name: Too Cool, Too Furious. But I miss the musty smoke smell, the never-clean floormats and the way I knew what numbers on the radio corresponded with Máxima FM and M80. I’ve had some of my most memorable moments in that car.

Getting wooed by a new chaval, Winter 2007

When I met Kike, I had very little interest in him, just in the fact that I knew few Spanish people and wanted to learn more of the language. But his car showed my new parts of the city my feet couldn’t take me, became a place to steal kisses and helped me to feel more integrated in the way of life here.

Taking him (home) to visit my host family in Valladolid, Spring 2008

My first long car trip with the nov was taken five months after we met. I was filled with that kind of nervous excitement that fills your belly up with a mix of something wonderful about ready to bubble over as we drove the five hours up to Valladolid to visit my host family. After he treated me to a huge filet at his favorite restaurant in Salamanca, Dulcinea, we found our way to Aurora’s house and spent the weekend celebrating belated birthdays, meeting Aurora’s new daughter and teaching Kike about one of Spain’s original capitals. It was like a precursor to him meeting my parents, and I could finally show him a new place instead of the other way around.

Roadtripping to Asturias, Spring 2009

 Ever since my first trip to San Sebastian in 2005, I had been dying to get back to the north. Land of lush green landscapes, haûte cuisine and several seperatist groups, the land abrove the Picos de Europa mountains is shrouded with tradition and mystique. Kike’s mother was born in Asturias, so we made the trip with another couple all the way up through Extremadura, Castilla and, upon passing the tunnel from León to the Principality of Asturias, I was already in love. This was the land where Don Pelayo began his reconquist of Spain in the eighth century, where fabada and cabrales cheese becomes a staple of the harsh diet, and where goats outnumber people. Since the weather was rainy and cold, we did most of our tourism through the windows of Kike’s car, stopping off for coffees or photo ops. I completely fell in love with Asturies, its cider and a region that has never once been under Moorish control. This place, despite being cut off from the rest of Spain because of the Picos de Europa and the Cantabrian Sea, is turly the heart of Spain.

Spending weekends in the pueblo

When I found out I could be living in a city instead of a little village a tomar por culo, I was relieved. I was ready to go anywhere, so long as it meant living in Spain legally. But every now and then, I really enjoy getting to Kike’s village, San Nicolás del Puerto, to escape the city. Fresh mountain air, freshly hunted meat and Miura liquor are all formative parts of our weekends away, and the town has a reputation for beautiful landscapes. We’ve been to romerías, saint festivals and family celebrations, and being the girlfriend of one of the townies, I feel like it’s become my own, too.

Stealing a car, Blues Brothers Style, and driving to Antquera with friends.

When Kike came to visit me in Chicago, we had a bit of a role reversal. Instead of him taking the wheel, I transported him around Chicagoland, prompting him to tout my driving skills as better than his. When he was in the US one week, I convinced him to leave me his car so I could take my roommate and another friend to the nearby village of Antequera, home to dolmenes and the famous mollete bread I eat for breakfast. Apart from gorgeous views of the Malagueña countryside, the car allowed us to visit nearby El Torcal, home to Jurassic age limestone formations that were once underwater, otherwise unvisitable with a vehicle. Having two good friends and an open road made for a good day, and the paella was pretty good, too.

The Too Cool certainly has its merits, and I’m getting used to driving it (though it’s merely an updated model of the old one). But, like my first car, it has that nostalgic quality that, with every dent and scrape, seems to cling to something somewhere in your memory.

Today Kike left to go to the US for a week, so he left me in the care of Too Cool. I took Julie, Julia and Katerina to the Feria Regional del Jamón in Aracena, a mere huor away. We got lost twice, the car might have gotten a scratch and my tummy prevented me from eating ham or drining beer, but being on the open road with friends and turning kilometre after kilometre on the spedometer through the Spanish countryside made me love this new car.

Bodas, beach and the boy!





When I came to Spain just over 8 months ago, I came wanting to learn Spanish (debateable), travel a lot (accomplished) and find a man who would take me to football (soccer for you americans, jaja) games. Instead, I found one from the rival team who refuses to take me to games because he thinks I’ll cheer on whoever is playing Betis, but he did offer to take me to a wedding.Last Friday morning, we jetted off to the tropical island of Gran Canaria. I say jetted because the whole Scandinavian and German world hangs out in the Canary Islands, a chain of islands that constitutes one of the 17 autonomous regions of Spain. Located just off the coast of Morrocco, it’s constantly 25ºC degrees and sunny, making it popular for pale-skinned giuiris like me. Arriving at the capital (which happens to be right next to the AFB where Kike works all summer), we rented a car, drop our things at the hotel and went straight to the beach. The island is really tiny and mostly full of mountains, so it only took about 40 minutes to drive from the northern part of the island where we were staying to Maspalomas, where he stays in the summer, at the southern end. The beach is called, in English, English Beach for the swarms of foreigners who flock their every year. You can tell by the international menu just how popular the beach is, both with young people and old guarros. The beach is also famous for its sand dunes, which cover the whole 4km stretch of land. Actually, Gran Canaria is called the mini continent for its various land structures, from gorges and cliffs to mountains and beaches. In fact, much of the western coast is uninhabitable. Anyway, our beach time didn’t last long and someone (not me, Mom!) didn’t use sunscreen.We drove to the southern tip of the island to a town called Mogán. Although the town itself is located a bit further inland, the port is really famous and beautiful. Kike took me to a restaurant right next to the boats and we had typical Canario food and tons of fresh seafood. It was a bit romantic, I will say. From there, being sunburnt little puppies, we went back to the hotel for a nap and shower and some recovery! Exhausted from the sun and the early hour wake-up, we made it to the nearest restaurant and went to bed super early.The next morning, since we didn’t go to the beach, we walked around the promenade and I bee-lined for the city center while Kike studied for his Arabic exam. The city is mostly biult on a penninsula and a sand bar, so I walked for what seemed like two kilometers. I saw very little of the gritty town, which I might liken to Miami. It’s full of tourists, brightly painted houses and several languages. It didn’t feel like Spain, similar to the Costa del Sol or Barcelona. After a few hours of seeing very little and not even making it to the old town, I was bored and hot and hungry, so I enjoyed a nice meal at Burger King (barf) with Kike before we got ready for the wedding. In the past two years, nearly all of his buddy from his class in the air force have gotten married or engaged. All of the couples at our table at dinner were engaged! This, of course, kept the focus on my own future with Kike, and although I’m not a private person in any sense, I was not willing to take a decision on that just yet. (sidenote: apparently there is a rumor circulating at my former place of employment that has spread to all of my sorority sisters that I’m engaged! NOT TRUE!!!!).

The wedding was held in a gothic church in the mountain town of Arehucas, where the rum factory on the island is located. It was a bit funny having a massive stone cathedral amidst palm trees overlooking the ocean. The ceremony was short but I understood most of it and there was no mass, as is customary in Catholic weddings. Jose, the groom, later told me all he heard was his name, his wife’s name and the word ring and it was over. His bride, Patricia, looked gorgeous and I want my wedding gown to look like the one she wore – halter top, simple and perfect for her shape. The wedding was really small, but everyone took a big interest in me because I’m foreign and because Montero doesn’t keep girlfriend around for very long. For the reception, we piled into Gonzalo’s car and had to drive back down the mountains, into the city, up some more mountains only to find the highway the restaurant is on is closed all summer. Without a clear map and even less clear directions, we found ourselves in the middle of the countryside, between two valleys amidst sheep farms on narrow roads. It was like something out of the crossbreed of European Vacation and Life is Beautiful. We finally arrived at a gorgeous rural restaurant as the sun was setting, enjoying San Franciscos and tapas. Spanish weddings are more or less the same as American ones, with a few small modifications of cultural things (for instance, in the US, guests clink their glasses with a utensil to get the couple to kiss. In Spain, they sing a kooky song about being in love and kissing). I found I could converse to Kike’s friends and their fiancées better than I expected to, and I didn’t feel as left out as I thought I would. The dinner was delicious and the cake was AMAZING. I wish I hoarded some more. We were ushered into a small, glass room where the DJ played mostly all Spanish music, including a lot of song that were popular three years ago when I studied. I felt cool being able to sing, “Devuelveme la Vida” and dance the Chiki Chiki, Spain’s Eurovision Contest entry (sadly, it didn’t win).

The next morning, sufficiently hungover and exhausted from staying out all night, we left the hotel in our rental car and drove to the mountains, which start just outside the city. Driving past little villages perched over cliffs and flowers I’d never seen before reminded me a lot of Provence, where I traveled six years ago (geez, that makes me feel old!). But the going up and down and around sharp curves in a manual car made me really sick, and we had to stop a few times for me to get some air. The first time I also stepped in what I’m sure was donkey poop (and the Spaniards think that’s lucky! I should have found the ONCE man and bought a lottery ticket or something!) Our first real stop was Roque Nublo, one of the highest points on the island. Normally you can see Tenerife from that point, but the day was cloudy. I braved strange hissing noises to climb close to the rock, but didn’t bring shoes with enough sturdiness to make it past the end of the paved road. From there, it was back down the mountain and up yet another to Cruz de Tejada. Here, we stopped for a quick tapa and Kike tried to convince me to take a spin on a donkey named Margarita. I’m guessing she left me the poop to step in. By now, I felt like I’d seen most of the island, but instead we went to another town on the nearly barren western coast. Agaete is a really teeny town on the coast. Until three years ago, when tropical storm Delta rolled through, a strange rock formation called the Dedo de Dios (Finger of God) stood guarding a stone beach. Now, the city has literally nothing in it, save some seafood restaurants and vacation villas. It was beautiful and busy on a Sunday, with all of the blue and white colored streets full of people in bathsuits (most of them sunburnt foreigners like me!). We stopped to pause on a bench in the shade, where I fell asleep and Kike probably smoked a whole pack of cigarettes. Typical.

When I came home, Melissa asked me where I get all of this money to travel. While Kike paid the majority of everything, I told her that all of the money-making decisions I had to make last summer (aside from health insurance, car insurance, etc.) was put up against the question of, “Will this $3 be better spent in Spain?” and the answer was almost always yes. I didn’t move thousands of miles away to teach English because it sounded fun. In fact, it didn’t sound fun at all. I moved abroad to take advantage of cheap travel and see new parts of the world. Hell, I’ve lived in Spain collectively for more than 10 months and still have so much to see of one country! But I’ve taken advantage of every puente, every holiday and all the cheap flights I’ve found to explore. On my list for next year? First Amsterdam to visit Martin, back to the east side of Germany, perhaps Copenhagen to see Anette, London to visit my cousins and I’d love to still see Croatia, Prague, Vienna, Switzerland and France again (after all, it isn’t a trip to Europe if I haven’t been to France!). But, now I stash my passport away and relieve my wallet a bit until I’m back in the USA in two weeks.

Un fuerte abrazo to all of you who have kept up with me the last 8.5 months.

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