My friend Lindsay, fellow sevillana in a past life, has my back when it comes to new places in Sevilla. While catching up after Christmas over rebajas shopping, she practically dragged me to Plaza San Francisco to try a new restaurant she’d heard about called Ovejas Negras, Black Sheep.
I fully admit to loving the traditional bodegas and old man bars in Seville, where the tortilla is fluffy and the service always candid. Lately, however, as tourism keeps this country afloat, more and more gastrobars have been popping up in the city.
I thought back to living on Calle Numancia in the bustling Triana neighborhood. To Rafa and the crew, I became la vecinita, the neighbor, and often filled my belly on balmy summer nights with a finger or two of wine and some cheese. La Pura Tasca’s fresh take on mixing ingredients and inventive design left me craving some more modern.
Places like La Azotea, Zelai and the newer Robles Restaurant (reputed to be the best food in Seville) are now rubbing elbows with age-old eating establishments and tucking into the narrow, cobblestone streets of the old quarter. From first taste, I was hooked.
Located in the shadow of the commanding Puerta del Perdón of the Cathedral, Ovejas Negras is anything but the black sheep of the restaurant family. It stands apart from the multitude of tourist shops and rental apartments and pays homage to Seville’s old ultramarinos store, a shop where you could buy everything from powdered milk to meats by simply taking a number and waiting for the man behind the counter to fill your order. Typical Spanish products line the crude wooden shelves behind the bar, where, as tradition dictates, the bartender will ask “Quién es el último?” and take your order.
Traditional Spanish tapas show up on the clipboard menus, but the beauty of Ovejas Negras is the mix of new and international cuisine. I, like Lindsay, have taken so many people back to Ovejas Negras that I’ve already got my go-to list of favorites at the bar: creamy risotto with wild mushrooms, a french bread pizza with rucula and parmesan, spicy papas bravas and, per usual, a cold Cruzcampo.
The atmosphere in the place is always lively, and last night we were lucky to grab a spot at the bar, under Bonilla a la Vista potato chip canisters and Mahou bottles. Our plan was to introduce my visitors, Dave and Melissa from my high school days, to the tapas tradition, but the bright lights of the bar and the array of choices meant we’d get our fill just be ordering based on what our eyes and noses drank in.
When I could say that I was the next in line to order, I carefully recited what was on everyone’s list to try: wooden bowls of papas bravas, an eggplant and rucula sandwich, fried fish with an accompanying cream sauce, the risotto and small, sweet and sour empanadillas. The conversation flowed like the beer over the bustle of the street outside for the Corpus Christi celebrations. The portion size of the tapas is big enough that two-three between two people is typically enough, though I could have found room in my tummy for the not-so-mini hamburger or even a slice of cheesecake.
Later that night, we found ourselves at roof where Melissa asked for the kitchen menu. “Just wanted to see if the papas bravas here were any better!” she quipped before ordering them. Could the answer be any more obvious?
Ovejas Negras is located in the Antiguo Bodegón Pez Espada on C/ Hernando Colón, 8, just between the Town Hall and Cathedral. Hours are Tuesday – Sunday 13:00 – 17:00 and 20:00 – 00:00. Closed Monday. Tapas from 2,50€. Menu also available in English.
Been to Overjas Negras? What did you order, and what did you think? Know any worthwhile bars to try in Seville? Want to come with? Let me know in the comments, and I’ll get eating!
Ahh! I want to go back to Seville right now to eat there with you! Maybe I’ll get to try this place on my one day visit in July!
So your kind of place!! Wish I could go with you, though! My friends visiting are interested in your tour…will be thinking of you tonight – you’ll be great!
I love the sound of this bar. For one thing, I was once considered the black sheep of the family (although others have long since claimed this honor). For another, the food looks fabulous. Thanks for the hot tip, and I will definitely give it a try.
Would love to know your favorite spot, K! And was it really Rich’s birthday? Will have to give him my well wishes, por fi!
Mmm, sounds delish! Love your writing, Cat–you really know how to transport someone to Sevilla with your words!
You are too sweet! You’ve been here before, so you’ll understand just how easy it is to be inspired by a place so bursting with flavor and color!
Great article! Can’t wait to try it!
When’s your next trip out here?
Sounds delicious, both the food and the surroundings. I’ll look out for this one. Be interested in what you thought about Roof too. I saw a brief article on it recently in a magazine and would like to check it out. As for other worthwhile bars to try we went to “La Societe” this week and really enjoyed the food.
Societé is similar. I really liked it the first time I went, but the second they were out of everything but what came out of a can!! Guess I’ll just have to go back…!
mmmmmm that looks delish! I’m on the next AVE 😛
My mouth is watering……………
Oooooh. D-Man and I took off for a weekend in Seville ages ago, and I remember LOVING this one tapas place that had amazing cheese and other tapas. We were both tipsy and cannot remember, for the life of us, where it was. But next time we go, I’m definitely trying Ovejas Negras tapas bar, no doubt about it!!