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Technicolor Córdoba: The Colorful Little Sister City

Córdoba is the kind of city that seems to hold secrets, whisperings under a lock and key that mirrors the one guarding the enormous mosque. Narrow callejas open into plazas stacked high with clay pots and perky flowers, the scent of olive oil from fryers heavy in the air. I’ve traveled to the city a mere hour’s train ride away from Seville half a dozen times, and while it’s gotten under my skin, I don’t think I’ve discovered the city’s heart.

The Caliphate City is vibrant, full of color, and delicious, from the heavier andalú accent in which the cordobeses serve you your caña or toast, to the glare of the sunshine off of the Guadalquivir that flows down river to my adopted town and out to the Atlantic. Seville and Granada get all of the love when it comes to Andalusian cities of renombre, but Códoba’s quiet presence make it a city that has become a secret favorite of mine.

On my latest visit in early March, the colors of the city against the whitewashed buildings that make up the historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, popped out. Muted reds, mustard yellows and the clear, blue sky of my most memorable days in Andalusia blend together to create a laid-back capital with history por un tubo.

Reds // Rojito // horseshoe arches. creamy salmorejo. street art.

yellows // amarillo // views of the mezquita bell tower. ancient city walls. the cathedral from the roman bridge.

blue // azules // azulejo tiles. flowerpots on calleja de las flores. a pop of purple on a backstreet.

Have you ever been to Cordoba? Has a city ever tried to keep its secrets from you?

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Cat Gaa

As a beef-loving Chicago girl living amongst pigs, bullfighters, and a whole lotta canis, Cat Gaa writes about expat life in Seville, Spain. When not cavorting with adorable Spanish grandpas or struggling with Spanish prepositions, she works in higher education at an American university in Madrid and freelances with other publications, like Rough Guides and The Spain Scoop.

This Post Has 49 Comments

  1. Lorna

    Only 45 minutes from our casa in the campo. Wonderful city! It has everything we need and wished for. Thank you for sharing this post about it.

    1. Sunshine and Siestas

      Cordoba is so lovely! I could imagine living there easily!

    1. Sunshine and Siestas

      Thanks! When uploading my pictures, I saw a trend…!

    1. Sunshine and Siestas

      …so long as I am included in that plan!

  2. noel

    I loved walking around Cordoba, its so compact and intimate but filled with color and lots of beautiful areas. Your pics really give a great sense and flavor to this vibrant city.
    noel recently posted..The Bahia Palace – A photo tourMy Profile

    1. Sunshine and Siestas

      That’s the perfect way to sum it up!

    1. Sunshine and Siestas

      I’ve always wanted to go, too! That time of the year is so busy with festivals, that I had the Feria de Jerez and the Romeria of my boyfriend’s pueblo the same weekend!

  3. Julia

    This is such a beautiful post, both your words and your photos. I spent a wonderful afternoon in Córdoba last spring and am dying to go back. I definitely got the feeling that the city was guarding many treasures, but I didn’t have the time to dig for them. Next time! x
    Julia recently posted..an ode to new york cityMy Profile

  4. amelie88

    Been to Cordoba three times and I only ever seem to visit the mezquita. It’s one of those places that if you are doing a group tour, you get dragged to the mezquita for about an hour and a half and then they give you an hour of free time. I would love to go back once without visiting the mezquita–it’s great but 3 times is enough!

    I know the double horseshoe arches are called arcos polilobulados in Spanish. It is the one thing I remembered from my architecture class when I studied abroad in Malaga, mostly because the students in my class were obsessed with the word and repeated it as a chant. I will never forget arcos polilobulados. It’s the first thing I think of when I see a picture of the mezquita!
    amelie88 recently posted..The Alcatraz of the East Coast: Inside the Walls of Eastern State PenitentiaryMy Profile

    1. Sunshine and Siestas

      I’ve been loads of times since it’s so close to Seville, and each time try and do something a bit different (and convince people not to pay for the Alcazar de los Reyes Magos, jiji!). And well done with the buzzword – you really do learn something new everyday!

    1. Sunshine and Siestas

      Ah, you’re a far better person than I! If I don’t like a place, I tend not to go back! The only reason I’d go back to Santander is to do another stretch of the Camino, ha!

  5. Patti

    I’ve never been but your photos are inspiring!

    1. Sunshine and Siestas

      Thank you!! It’s a city that’s worth a day, definitely, and their festivals are fun!

  6. Gayla

    I have not been to Cordoba, but it looks like yet another place I must see! I love the colors and the Moorish influence. So beautiful.

    1. Sunshine and Siestas

      It’s fantastic! You just need to do a big Andalusia roadtrip!

  7. Ahh I love your photos, and they’re great grouped by color. Córdoba is definitely one of my favorites in the south. I’ve got to get to the flower thing one year – have you been?
    Jessica of HolaYessica recently posted..New Interviews and Travel PlansMy Profile

    1. Sunshine and Siestas

      Nope, haven’t been able to go. There’s always so much going on during that time of the year throughout the region, from fairs to romerías to festivals to trips to the beach! Will try and make a point of it next year, though I’ve heard they’re requiring people to pay to visit the patios now!

    1. Sunshine and Siestas

      You’ll just have to come back!

    1. Sunshine and Siestas

      Thanks, Mary! I feel like I finally got the angles, colors and photos I’ve wanted to get in Córdoba. It’s a really great city, and definitely worth a day!

  8. gabi klaf

    these pics are unreal cat. wow. i love them. can’t even begin to tell you which i love most for each one is divine. thank you for making want to go there too. god, i’ll never get to it all. ok, but still, i must say i love the tower photo taken from the gate pattern as a frame. and that blue tiled sign in the stone. thank you.
    gabi klaf recently posted..The Ten Absolute Best Meals In South East Asia- A RTW Photo Food CelebrationMy Profile

    1. Sunshine and Siestas

      Thanks, love! It’s an easy city to photograph because of the colors, and the overcast day meant getting rich tones rather than something overexposed. It was magical!

    1. Sunshine and Siestas

      I’ll head there with you! I’m tempted to go back when my mom visits this weekend…

    1. Sunshine and Siestas

      Thank you! It’s a lovely place, and Spain has really brought out my love of photography.

  9. Dale

    I’m desperately trying to convince Franca that a summer in Spain should be on the cards and this article should help do the trick.
    Dale recently posted..From Italy With LoveMy Profile

    1. Sunshine and Siestas

      Just make sure you’re in the North or near a coast – it gets toasty in July and August!

    1. Sunshine and Siestas

      The Costa Brava is nice, but as you can tell, I’m especially partial to Southern Spain! Thanks for weighing, J!

    1. Sunshine and Siestas

      It hasn’t gotten terribly hot here…yet! Thanks for the love, Bethaney!

  10. Danielle

    I just got back two months ago after having lived two of the most beautiful years of my life in that amazing city, and this entry took my breath away. I oftentimes find it really difficult to put into words what it is that makes Cordoba so special, and you have done it perfectly. What nostalgia!
    Danielle recently posted..El apogeoMy Profile

    1. Sunshine and Siestas

      Why thank you! I think it’s a city that is definitely worth a lot more tourism and acclaim – it’s pretty special!

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