Por Dónde Se Queda el Corazón

My good friend Kirsten and I were sitting at a table at Universal facing the giant salmon-pink façade of Iglesia del Salvador this afternoon.

“You know,” she said, “I don’t know why I ever left Sevilla to go back to Germany.” I don’t either.

There are some universal truths about Sevilla that make this place hard to leave. Kike and I were walking through the church-filled neighborhood of Macarena on Friday en route to a school dinner. A vecino gave us a shortcut which led us down small alleyways named for saints and finally opened into a gigantic stone temple. Sitting on a stoop outside was a gypsy, playing flamenco guitar in the dwindling light of viernes.

Today I sat at Plaza Salvador, beer in hand, and watched Sevillanos socialize. I waited for an hour for Kirsten but was entertained by the beggars, posh children and bikers that always make this plaza full of life. They say the hispalenses live in the streets, and Sunday is the day to do it.

Afterall, the world is a handkerchief (the English translation of Spain’s “It’s a small world”), and running into friends when I live so far out of the center with a lack of a social life is one of the most pleasant parts of my life here. Within a block I bumped into my old flatmate, Megan, and two of my students from Olivares, and it turns out my other American coworker´s husband is an old friend of Kike.

Sevilla, sings María Dolores Pradera, tiene un color especial. Sevilla has something all it’s own.

Breaking Rules and Breaking Down

I was six the first time I got sent to the principal’s office.

Still had the little boy haircut, still loved school and my teachers, still had no idea why boys and girls ever ended up getting married. Then, Josh Rollins and David Damby lifted up my dress to reveal my underwear on the playground one afternoon at King Elementary School.

I was horrified. The sixth grade safety guard told me to run and hide, but I knew the consequences would be far greater if I did. So I hung my head and marched into Mr. Damby´s (yes, the boy who lifted up my skirt was the principal´s son) office, willing to miss after-recess story time if it meant my mom would never know. If it were anyone else´s kid, I would have been thought to provoke the curiosity of a bunch of little boys, but Mr. Damby knew his kid, and I got off without even so much as a slap on the wrist. For at least five more years, I wore bike shorts under skirts and dresses.

Senior year of high school, I got my first and only detention. Perkins, my gymnastics coach and dear friend, gave it to me for not remembering to bring my freshly-laundered District 200-issued gym clothes to school. I met her promptly at 2:20 and asked for my task. Rubbing skid marks off the gym floor? Recording grades? She waved me away, knowing I was a good kid.

Moral of the story? I´m not so into breaking rules. I´m as straight as Spain´s steady descent into non-Euroland.

That is, until recently. In February, I started getting together documents together to study at one of Seville´s two public universities. This involved countless trips and countless aggravations with María Gracia, the woman in charge of the Masters Oficial. I finally had to pay 110€ to get my transcript translated, and am still waiting for the sign-up to open. This was my back-up plan, to get a student visa to at least allow me to get a cheap masters and stay in Spain.

As of June 15th, it´s still not open. So I needed a new plan.

I found out in May that I couldn´t renew my grant to be a language assistant another year, so I started preparing early by making lists of possible places to work, spending free time writing cover letters and addressing envelopes. Just after Feria, I sent out 43 CVs to colegios concertados, which are private schools paid for in ‘art by the government. I´ve gotten a lot of support from other teachers, friends who pass along job contacts, and my own willingness to put everything Í´ve got into the job search.

To date, I’ve had seven contacts. One no for working at the school (but an offer for the afterschool program), two interviews done, two more this week, and a “we’ll contact you.” although I´ve had good response, it´s hard not to be disheartened when you see yourself as a good candidate and willing to do what it takes. I’ve been more anxious than the day before moving away to school, ready to cry at any moment. The only thing certain is that I want to stay in Spain, not how I’ll do it or where I´ll work.

Everyone had the same response: Can you at least get student papers? Find some way to be legal?

All of research and calls to lawyers were kind of coming up empty. So I had to think of something else. I am not a criminal, and I don´t have so much as a parking ticket to my name. I pay taxes even though I don´t live in America, never run red lights and donate money to charity. So what´s to say a law-abiding citizen can´t bend the rules a bit every now and then?

Kike and I decided to do what’s known as a pareja de hecho. While, during the first year, the benefits to me are slim, if we can prove that we´ve lived together for 12 months without me being away for more than three months, I´ll get a residence permit. Not job permission, but at least I can´t be kicked out of the country for the next 12 months. It took several trips to the social security office, an all-day excursions to Fuengirola (Málaga) to the American Consulate to get what´s known as a Fé de Soltería, or a 23€ document stating I´m not already married. For once, all of this paperwork, the dreaded papeleo, was done within a week and it became official on June 7th.

But, as I mentioned, this was no way to get work permission. I have tried everything, spending my entire three weeks of summer vacation standing in lines trying to get some answers. I even tried getting unemployment, thinking my pareja de hecho could get me in the Spanish Social Security system. Hours at the Oficina de Extranjeros were good for asking questions, but it wasn´t until I visited the American Consulate here that I had the solution.

Mary Theresa said: Stop being so Anglo-Saxon about things, Cat. Go and use what you´ve got.

So I gathered everything I needed to reply my student visa, bought an overnight ticket to Madrid and left Wednesday night after my classes. I arrived to the capital a few minutes after six to cold, rainy weather and immense ganas to sleep. My plan was to have a coffee and churros and sit outside in the cold at the Foreigner´s Office. But the 15º weather deterred me, so I was shocked to see that In was the first in line at 8am. In Sevilla, the office is swamped by people waiting for their numbers early, eager to get one before they run out by 10am.

Just before 9am, a security guard opened the door and asked me if I had an appointment. I learned before leaving Sevilla that the office only takes appointment, but having a document that expired in one week was like walking around with a bomb in my wallet, and I had good faith someone would help me for having come on a dreaded overnight bus from Sevilla. The guard, instead, gave me the shortcut for calling and speaking to a human (in my defense, I did try for the appointment). The woman on the other end informed me that someone had JUST called and cancelled for Monday, so she could get me in at 4pm. I snatched a bank form out of the guards hand, walked down the street to the Caja Madrid, and paid my 16,32€ for the new card before boarding the Metro back towards the bus station to close my ticket. It was cold, ym news shoes pinched my feet, and I was being tortured by coming back again.

Sunday night, I left again, feeling a bad feeling in the pit of my stomach. After all, I was kinda stretching the truth for this NIE, but letting it expire was like opening Pandorás box: a whole new level of despair. I was, of course, seated behind the woman who fully reclined her chair and a dude who had no idea what personal space was, so I got scattered sleep in, finally succumbing in my weird gymnast positions with limbs draped wherever I could get them to fit.

I arrive at 7am, took the Cercanías to Atocha and resolved to just walk around until my friend called for breakfast. Nine hours to kill is a lot in an expensive city where you´ve been countless times before (no, I really can´t remember how many times I´ve been to Madrid – I think I went five last year alone!). Jeremy called at about 9am, so I scooted over to Palos de la Frontera, where we have a long chat over coffee (mine a manchaito with less coffee, since I was already trembling) and porros, the thick, Sevillian-style churros. He then suggested I take a nap, so I followed him to his house and konked out on the couch.

We later went to our date place for lunch, an unassuming Chinese restaurant in the parking garage of Plaza de España. By the time I got off the Metro in Puerta de Toledo an hour later, 40 minutes before my appointment, the sky had opened up and I was soaked after the 50 meter walk down the hill. I told the guard that I was early, and he insisted I not stand outside and just get in line straightaway. This cita system is genius, and I waited a mere 15 minutes for my number to be called (compared to four hours in Sevilla the week before). I had to practically Jedi Mind trick my feet still so as not to appear nervous, but all of that washed away when I walked in.

The blonde woman who helped me looked like Charo at first glance, minus all the plastic surgery. I quickly explained my situation with her, even leaving out that I had already been here, and she put her hand over mine and said, “Your current NIE is from Sevilla. Have you lived there a long time? I love Andalucía.” I swear she never even looked down at my paperwork, chattering away about how funny my accent is (she likened me to the Korean woman raised in Utrera who now appears on a late-night talk show), how funny Andalusians are, and how much success she wishes me in the future.

Phew. I was about to pee my pants!

I walked out of the office and called Kike and my mom, the stamp freshly planted on my documentation. Sign, sealed and LEGAL!

Revuelto de Abril

Pues, VAYA MES! Between Semana Santa and the Language Village came Branko’s visit, barbeques, azahar, springtime’s quick transition to summer and, claro, the April Fair. Menudo primavera que hemos pegao! I haven’t had two moments to sit still, so I’ll just leave some photos at the moment, as well as a link to my ode to Feria on Matt’s travel blog.

churros at 6am with my visitor and our beers from the churrero.

dancing Sevillanas con Josito

Twilight on C/Gitanillo de Triana at the Fairgrounds

Love Love LOVE these two

quick trip to Granada with the girls

Branko’s visit to Sevilla and our trip to the Alcazar

BBQ on Christene’s terraza with the Cathedral behind us

Saying goodbye to Marta from Heliche

A que parezco una gitana de Triana!

Mis ninas en Feria: Now it’s time for caracoles and the beach!!

de ida y vuelta

I have to admit that I had butterflies in my stomach the entire ride between Toronto (which is, for the record, 7 hours with tailwind, but a broken brake kept us grounded an extra two hours). I didn’t know if I was making a good decision, which was then exacerbated by the delay and the lack of train tickets and the lío of Alejandro telling me he wasn’t going to pick me up because Kike need a lift at the exact same time.

But the second I stepped off the train in Santa Justa, David sent me a text welcoming me back “home” and all that crazy build up of feelings and nightmares just kinda…evaporated. And I feel happy here. I’ve been doing my best to keep Kike at bay, do things my way, look for new opportunities and just be happy with what I’ve got. And despite little problems I’ve had, things have gone well these past three weeks.

Manolito says I seem mas ligera, Melissa swears I’m happier. My Spanish is struggling and I’m always beat. But I’m staring to make sense of the things I want and the things I don’t want (which is always more clear).

My big complaint is my schedule. I’m in Olivares four times a week, and only in the afternoon, so I’m constantly running from one place to another. I have to pay my own transportation and get up even earlier, and with my classes being all the way across town, I’m always looking for a way to shorten the trip or move things around. IT BLOWS not even having 30 minutes to eat and check my email tranquilita. What’s worse is that I want to find time to do something for myself, be it take yoga or volunteer or whatever, and I can’t. Mad at myself.

Butttt I’ve already gotten a little traveling in. I used the Puente de Pilar (Day of the massacre of the indigenous population of the Americas, really) to get to London. I’d been there once before, but my cousin Tom and darling, dearest friend Cat live there, so I was willing to from the 78 euros on RyanAir to spend a few days. Not prepared for the cold or the money spent on transportation (over half of my allowance!!), but a good time with two mostly gorgeous days! I would write more, but I’m beat. Hoping to find more time to actually write anything interesting and up to par…besossss

With so much drama in the SVQ

Last year, my querida Kait Alley left Spain saying, “This GD country has been doing nothing but shitting on my head for the last eight months.” I kind of feel the same way, just about the last two weeks. It’s been nothing but drama and quite a few tears.

Melissa’s cousin (I will call her Prima because she’s a minor) came to stay with us because, at 17, she was pregnant and being beaten by her gypsy boyfriend. The poor girl was scared out of her mind and confused, leading her to be a perfect house guest – quiet and never in the way. The three of us always tried to have someone at home should she need anything, inviting her out with our friends. After five days here in Sevilla, she and Melissa went home to La Linea de la Concepcion to visit their family.

I arrived home on Monday just before 3pm to find Prima in the sitting room, watching the Simpsons. I asked her how she was feeling, commenting on how she even looked more animada, and she told me she had done a lot of thinking and felt refreshed. I took a shower, and when I left the bathroom, I noticed the door to Melissa’s room was slightly ajar. I went into my room to get dressed and Prima appeared shortly after to tell me she was going to go for a walk outside to clear her head. I offered her my keys, which she refused, saying she’d be back within the hour. By 6:15, she hadn’t showed up and Sanne and I reasoned it was a nice day, or she had gotten lost. I went to give class, and by the time I got home at 9:30ish, she still hadn’t shown up. Melissa came home running from class to find that Prima had robbed 263€ from her tuition money. Since she had been gone for several hours, she could have been anywhere.

Turns out she’s camping out in her boyfriend’s house, refusing to come out. Some of her family members have seen her and there’s already a kidnapping notice for her because she’s a minor (if I understand correctly). She’s got a record already for drugs and is no longer pregnant, which she found out last week.

The other big news is that Kike has to work in Madrid for two months. Madrid isn’t in some isolated corner of the globe, but it will effectively be a long-distance relationship because we will be, at best, 2.5 hours away from one another. Sure, there’s weekends and cell phones, but I’ve gotten accustomed to having him back in Sevilla and was trying to plan around all that so that I would go home for the majority of the two months he’ll be back in Sevilla. Spanish people are spontaneous. Meeee not so much.

What to do about next year

This is the time of the year when I am sick of my job. Still lagging from the holiday season (and three-week vacation), kids still not focused, shit weather and me wondering about what I want to do next year. It’s a weird balance – half of me (well, a little more than half) wants to stay in Spain while the other half wants to move on, move somewhere new and try something different. After all, I won’t teach English my whole life, and if I do continue for another year or two, why not do it on the beach in Thailand or near the Patagonia in Chile?

This year has been different in so many ways at school, despite already knowing my students and their abilities well and having the newer members of the staff be even more welcoming and inclusive to me than last year. But I feel much more integrated OUTSIDE of the English department. Because I devote nearly half of my hours specifically to the Bilingual group, I generally only have class with the teachers once every two weeks. For instance, Valle no longer takes me to school, so I had no idea she’s traveling to India in Nepal in a few weeks!

This year it’s been easier to measure success. I can note the progress some students and many teachers have made since I arrived last year, even hearing more English in the teacher’s lounge than last year. Many greet me with “Hello” instead of “Hola” and I’ve been correcting homework and copying extra worksheets because people have been more interested in learning English. Very cool.

So, you can imagine my disappointment in learning that the Junta de Andalucía, my employer, is not guaranteeing that I’ll have a job next year. I’m welcome to reapply, but since they’re cutting the positions in half (that’s to say, one assistant at each school instead of two), it’s likely I’ll get ousted in favor of a new applicant. I’m just about done with my reapplication and am keeping my fingers crossed. After China, I’m going to start tackling all of the private schools in the area to see if they’re looking for a language assistant of sorts. De todas formas, I’m staying put in Spain for a while longer. I’m not done here yet.

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...