My Biggest Travel Fiasco (or, the time I spent New Year’s Eve alone in Romania)

Budapest, Hungary

The clock reads 7:32 a.m. The man in the front seat is antsy, nervously playing with the manual lock system on the minivan. 

“Where are these people? Don’t they know we could be late for our flights?”

I assure Fidgety Floridian that the Budapest airport is quite small and easy to get through, but his wife isn’t convinced. She rolls her eyes and says, “We have the worst luck with planes. We nearly didn’t make it on the cruise.”

My flight to Tirgu Mures, Romania doesn’t leave for four hours, so I’m cool. I settle into the jump seat at the back of the van, wedged between luggage.

Three hours later, I’ve sailed through security and pursue the food options. I decide to wait until I land in Tirgu Mures, as I will need something to do for three hours before leaving for Madrid. My foot taps impatiently against the floor as we begin to embark. Wedged into an airport bus, I choose to stand next to someone who hasn’t showered.

For thirty minutes.

After which we are unloaded back  into the terminal and delayed another thirty minutes. I settle into my third book of my holiday break and return to tapping my foot again while doing the mental math: I have a one hour flight, a one hour delay and a one hour forward time change. I have just enough time to grab my bag, check in again and head to my gate once we touch down in Tirgu Mures. 

My foot taps faster.

In the air, I relax a little, as I’ve been assured that it will be taxi, takeoff, ascent, quick passage of the metal cart for snacks, descent, landing, taxi. Plus, I’ve snagged a seat on the aisle in the third row (thank you, Amazing Race, for teaching me how to get on and off planes quickly). Flipping through the inflight magazine for the third time, the captain announces something in Hungarian. Then, in English: Due to zero visibility in Tirgu Mures, we’ve been rerouted to Cluj, to which we have begun our descent. There will be buses on hand to take you to Tirgu, unless you’d prefer to stay in Cluj. We apologize for any inconvenience.

My heart skips a beat and I call the flight attendant, slightly panicked. How long until the buses arrive? Is it a far drive to Tirgu Mures? Will I have to go through customs here? I continue to fire, but she comes back with two responses: first, I don’t know anything about Romania and second, we are a point to point airline, sorry.

No shit. 

Cluj-Napoca Airport, Romania

Once on the ground, I call the Novio, fighting tears. Our New Year’s plans were to spend the night with his extended family which had come from London, Peru, Murcia and Madrid. He assures me they’ll come and pick me up from Madrid when I get in, whenever that may be. I hastily get through customs, and my checked bag comes barreling down the belt first.

My first stop is the tourist information counter. Unfortunately, the woman speaks limited English. There is no bus to Tirgu Mures out front, and I check my watch: with the time change, my flight closes in 90 minutes. I return to the desk and slow down: How long in taxi to Tirgu Mures? 

“One hour thirty, maybe two.” Remembering my Romania road trip, I think of the poor state of most highways in Romania and bite my lip.

Other travelers are taking pity on me, asking if there’s anything they can do to help me or if I’d like a lift to the center of Cluj. I rack my brain – I’ve been here before. It’s a large university city where we made a quick stop, and the food was cheap. A large, domed church with a fountain in front gets shaken from my head as I try to think straight.

The Cluj airport flies to many more destinations, including Barcelona and Madrid, I tell myself. If I fly out of anywhere, it will be here.

I have to say, I have never been a nervous flier. I always arrive to the airport early, pack my bag without liquids and know how planes work and why they just don’t fall out of the sky. Yes, I even pray to the Virgin of Loreto, patron saint of pilots (and I can’t believe I just admitted that). But now I’m antsy, channeling Kevin McCallister’s mother as I half-run to the Wizz Air ticketing office in the departures terminal.

The woman is quite nice and speaks English, and looks up flights to anywhere in Spain – Valencia, Alicante, Palma. Nothing more will fly out today to Spain, just to Budapest at 8pm, more than six hours in the future. She assures me there are flights from Budapest to Madrid the following day for a mere 145€, and the woman in the other information booth looks up overnight buses and prices for me.

Just then, a young Lufthansa worker touches me on the shoulder. Nothing is flying out of Targu this afternoon – there’s no ground visibility and they’ve already sent word that we’ll be getting flights bound for other destinations here, he tells me.

Feeling a stroke of good luck, I buy myself a cold sandwich and a warm Orsus beer and pace the empty departures hall.

For the next five hours, I jockey between the Wizz Air office, the check-in counters for news and the information desk. Passengers from other flights to Lutton and Beauvais pass through, looking at me as if I am in the movie Terminal. Time ticks by slowly, but I don’t pick up a magazine until several hours into the ordeal. Food doesn’t appeal to me, and even the nice Romanian girl who offers me tea gets a no, thank you.

The Lufthansa worker is nowhere to be found, so I ask another for help. Thankfully, he speaks English perfectly and makes a call. 

“We’ll know in thirty minutes, but I think you’re in luck. Just stay within sight.” Doing as I’m told, I finally start to try to occupy myself, returning to my e-book. Still distracted, another hour flies by and the Novio calls back. He tells me, pity in his voice, that no one could help him in Barajas, then, angrily, “And the call costs 1,15 a minute, joder!”

Just then, nice Lufthansa man steps out from around the heck-in desk with a long face. “Yeah, so, your flight will leave in 15 minutes. From Targu Mures. I’m sorry, the weather has cleared up.”

Well, crap.

Nice Lufthansa man turns into an angel when he gets on the phone with Wizz Air and scores me a new ticket, free of charge, for the misinformation he alleges I’ve received. An email in my inbox confirms this. I could hug him, but instead I give him the bottle of wine I was carrying home for the Novio’s family. One good deed deserves another, and he gladly accepts it, saying that he was made to work an extra eight hours with the influx of re-routed flights.

I grab my things and find a taxi after seven hours in the terminal. There is general confusion, as the taxi driver asks me which bus station I want to go to. I dart back into the terminal to find it completely deserted. I leave it to blind faith and nod when he asks the name of the company and just takes off, racing towards the city.

Cluj-Napoca City Center

We pull up to what appears to be an abandoned junk yard with a few plastic huts. “Bus!” the driver calls out and dumps my bag on the cold, wet ground. Never mind the vintage stein I’m bringing back…or the other bottle of wine.

Everything is dark. I can’t read anything. My watch read 8:22, or one hour, forty-eight minutes until the bus apparently passes. Music is playing at the hotel around the corner, so I go in and plead my way into sitting in the still-cold lobby, tired enough to want to cry, or just curl up and say to hell with an overnight bus.

Welp, turns out there was no overnight bus, or any bus or train on New Year’s Day, so I turn on my Internet data (happy Christmas bonus, Vodafona) and look up hotels, figuring it would be money well spent. There’s a Hilton.

There’s a Hilton.

The closest I can get to home is a Hilton, and they would definitely have wi-fi and breakfast. I realize, rubbing my eyes, I’ve barely eaten or even drank since 6:30 in the morning, adding to my drowsiness and overall pity party.

The Hilton glows green on the empty street, just a few yards from the city center. I practically collapse as the receptionist charges my credit card and writes down my information to the tune of 58€. Giving him the cliff notes of my sob story, he promises to call me a taxi.

Upstairs in my room, I’ve just taken off my bag when the phone buzzes. “Um, yes, my friend can take you to Budapest Airport tomorrow. It is five, maybe six hours. It will cost 250€. Yes?” Without even thinking, I say yes. Besides, I already did the mental math. If I waited another day, I’d have to spend another 58€ for the hotel room, over 300€ for the flight from Cluj on the 2nd, and then another train ticket from Madrid. 

I kick off my shoes and run the shower. I stare at the water and steam for about a minute before I decide I’m too tired to even stand under the jet of water. The clock says 11:23 p.m., a full 15 hours since I left the dock in Budapest. I should have arrived to Spain three hours ago.

My night is sleepless, punctuated by fireworks, whatsapps from well-wishing friends and a very nervous mother. My in-laws send pictures of themselves eating my 12 lucky grapes, and all I can think is, vaya suerte. 

Rural Romania

The driver nods his head at me as I slip in the back seat of his car. He punches something nervously into his GPS and I wish him a happy new year, surprisingly sunny, given the circumstances and the money I am about to fork over to him. It doesn’t seem that he speaks English, which both relieves and disappoints me.

One thing I can say since my road trip through Transylvania and Mures: the roads have definitely gotten better. We speed out of Cluj along the E-61 towards Hungary, and I am flooded with memories of my trip. The intricately carved wooden crosses on the side of the road, the haystacks behind homes and the women in black fly by as we take the twisting roads west.

There’s definitely a common theme amongst Romanians – they’re all so damn nice, and it’s amazing what a terrible night of sleep did to me – I feel 100 times better and pray to the travel gods that I will be back in Spain on the first day of 2014.

Romanian-Hungarian border

The driver is nervous. He backs his car up, pulls it back in, changes positions, smokes his smokeless cigarette pipe thing. I’m sipping down water in small amounts, not sure if he speaks enough English to know I need a pit stop. After seven long minutes (for him, not me), the guard approaches the car and hands me back me passport and Spanish residency card.

On the first day of 2014, I’ve already got two freshly stamped entries in my passport. Every cloud…

Budapest, Hungary

Once we’re into Hungary, the roads become straight and the hills disappear. While I can understand some words in Romania because of its Romantic language roots, Hungary has me completely stumped. All I can make out is the ever-dwindling number of kilometers between our car and the airport.

The driver drops me off right in front of the terminal. I’ve given him a tip of close to 30€ (after all, he charged me in Romanian leu and that conversion is not easy on a sleep-deprived brain) for his trouble on New Year’s Day, and he shakes my hand firmly after helping me put my heavy bag on my back. I thank him on the only word in Romanian I know, multumesc. Thank you very much.

My phone picks up the wi-fi immediately in the airport, and I re-book a train ticket for 9:30 p.m. I have three hours before my flight, which will give me time to finally have a beer, get checked in and get through security…and maybe eat fast food and not feel ashamed about it. Spanish permeates my consciousness and I relax.

Once on the plane, the sky is a dreamy pink with streaks of red until night falls.

Madrid, Spain

As soon as the plane touches down, the first thing that comes to mind is Manolo Escobar’s famous Spain anthem, Que Viva España. My phone is turned on before we reach the gate, and I send whatsapps to everyone I know. I feel like I’ve returned to a place where everything makes sense and where language is no longer an issue. I get Spain. 

Time seems to pass by in three seconds as I grab my bag, transfer to terminal 4, hop on the cercanías line and make it to my train – the last of the day – with 20 minutes to spare. Being a holiday, my car was only half full, so I could curl up across both seats and sleep for two hours. Stepping onto the platform and seeing ‘SEVILLA – SANTA JUSTA’ as I take a deep breath reminds me that I am, at long last, home.

Sevilla, Spain

I arrive home five minutes to midnight on January 1st. The travel gods heard my plea, it seems. I’ve traveled, by my estimate, over 3900 miles in 40 hours. The Novio hasn’t changed the sheets in two weeks, but I hardly notice as I sleep, finally, in my own bed for 10 hours.

I’ve since recounted the short version of the ordeal to my friends. While some are shocked and glad it didn’t happen to them, I can say this: I am relieved that I am a seasoned traveler and that I’ve watched my parents navigate standby and weather delays like champs. My nerves and even my tear ducts were put to the test, but I got home, unscathed (just poorer). Had I been new to international travel or unaware of European flight compensations, I may have made rookie mistakes.

One thing I have realized? I am not cut out for round-the-world travel. While it seems challenging and fun, I’m too accustomed to my comforts and hate wearing dirty clothes (there, I admitted it). I can handle when things don’t go as planned, but I don’t like it because I am not spontaneous. I like feeling grounded. I like the feeling of familiarity. I like having wi-fi and no roaming data (my bill came yesterday…ouch).

That’s not to say that I won’t travel for extended periods of time – I most certainly will travel as far as my body and my salary will take me, and have big dreams when it comes to doing it. But I think I’ve finally mató el gusano. The idea of round-trip travel is no longer a little tickle that flares up once in a while.

The idea of becoming an expat in another city or another country? THAT is the new gusanillo.

Have you had any travel disasters recently? I’d love to hear them, and if they’re Spain-related, feel free to send me the story for publishing!

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About Cat Gaa

As a beef-loving Chicago girl living amongst pigs, bullfighters, and a whole lotta canis, Cat Gaa writes about expat life in Seville, Spain. When not cavorting with adorable Spanish grandpas or struggling with Spanish prepositions, she works in higher education at an American university in Madrid and freelances with other publications, like Rough Guides and The Spain Scoop.

Comments

  1. I love this story. This will be one for you to remember forever. Happy New Year!
    Corinne recently posted..Instagramming the Berlin WallMy Profile

  2. Happy New Year from a Romanian! I am sorry for your time lost in our country! Maybe your next visit in Romania will change in better your opinion about my country!

    • Thank you, Henry! The problem had nothing to do with Romania – I’ve been and really enjoyed it! I was annoyed at the company for their lack of information, bu maintain that all of the people who helped me were friendly and willing to lend a hand to help!

  3. What a trip! Not sure I understand just what happened, but sounds like it was stressful. Ahhh, travel.
    Reg of The Spain Scoop recently posted..Shhhh – Quiet Beaches On Tenerife IslandMy Profile

    • Essentially, I was given wrong information regarding flights and flight times, and therefore missed a connection and had to pay our of pocket to get back to Spain.

  4. I was wondering if you were going to blog about your New Years adventure eventually…and you did! A nice read, and it stressed me out going through it! 😛

    I don’t have many travel fiasco stories–except for missing the trenhotel to Paris by 5 minutes because there was a mysterious delay on Rodalies going from Sants to França…100€ I’ll never get back but whatevz. I almost had a HUGE screw up in June when I flew home f….or the summer; I woke up in central Madrid two hours before my int’l flight was supposed to leave!!!!!! I’ve never scrambled so fast before or since, and gracias a Dios my two metro and cercanias connections aligned PERFECTLY so it took ~30 min from Sol to T1…aww yeah

    And I have to agree with you about not liking long-term travel. I love having a home base or “nest” to return to here in Spain, where everything (mostly hehe) just makes sense. :)
    Trevor Huxham recently posted..What I Enjoyed the Most in Florence, ItalyMy Profile

    • Ah yes, I remember that story! I am so thankful for the new cercanias line straight to Barajas – it was a godsend for me on this trip, and it didn’t cost me anything!

  5. Great story, Cat! Very well done.

    While constantly moving is great for a lot of people (and makes for interesting travel blogs for the good writers out there), we can’t stand constantly being on the move. There’s also no time to actually get into a culture if you’re rushing from place to place every few days. Hence, our life of (constant) slow-travel.
    Ryan from Jets Like Taxis recently posted..Report: Our Visit to San Luis Obispo, CaliforniaMy Profile

    • Definitely agreed. I like the way you guys do it, and could get used to that. Besides, I cannot live out of a bag or suitcase for longer than two, maybe three, weeks.

  6. Oh Cat, that sounds awful. My worst one was one Christmas I was trying to get home when Iberia royally screwed me, making me miss the last flight to the Pacific Northwest before all the airports shut down for blizzards. Essentially, it took three days longer than planned, a hotel stay, a 5 hour drive, another hotel stay because all shops had sold out of car chains, and another 5 hour drive in snow to get me home on Christmas Eve. I burst into tears when I walked through my mom’s door, but I made it, unlike you :(
    Aimee recently posted..Working with Teaching AssistantsMy Profile

    • Now channeling Kevin McAllister’s mother…did you run into a polka band?! Nah, in all seriousness, your trek sounds terrible, too. I didn’t care so much about missing NYE (In fact, in the last four years, I’ve only gone out twice) but about stressing about how to get back to Budapest when there was no public transportation.

  7. Woah confusing story! So from what I got from this is that you were supposed to take a flight from Budapest and connect to another flight in Romania to get to Spain. However you got rerouted to another airport in Romania due to poor visibility so you missed your flight in Tirgu Mures. Spent the night in a hotel and then somehow found someone to drive you all the way BACK to Budapest to take a flight from Budapest to Madrid to get back to Spain. And all this happened on January 1st.

    I needed to write that all down just so I could actually understand the sequence of events haha.

    I do have a travel horror story involving Frankfurt-Hahn airport in Germany but it involves stupidity and poor planning on my and my friends’ part and it takes too long to write down in a comment. Unsurprisingly, RyanAir is involved. Though this time it wasn’t really RyanAir’s fault.
    amelie88 recently posted..Carry On, Boston Strong!My Profile

    • My suegra joked around that she had NO CLUE where I was because my story was so confusing and involved places she didn’t know existed. But, yes, you’ve got the story correct! It wouldn’t have been such an issue, but everything was closed down on New Year’s Eve and the following day, which made it so difficult to get where I needed to go.

  8. I have really wanted to travel to Romania. Wondering if you would recommend at this point? I learned the hard way as well when I traveled to Africa that I need certain creature comforts!
    Michelle recently posted..Hello VietnamMy Profile

    • I definitely would recommend Romania! The country really surprised me when I went in 2011. The people are friendly and it’s very cheap! IF you stick to some of the big cities, you’ll find them like any other European city. I’d recommend Sibiu, Brasov, Sighisoara and any town in Mures.

  9. Ohh no!! Disaster! I felt physical pain reading this haha. You poor sod.

    I recently had a disaster on a MUCH smaller scale: I accidentally hopped on the 175 to Albaida instead of the M175 one dark morning at Plaza de Armas.

    When I got on, I said ‘Albaida’ because I am a courteous human, and the guy nodded and I sat down. Ten minutes in, I knew I’d got on the wrong bus but thought that it still ended up in Albaida but no…He stopped in Valencina in the pouring rain and yelled ‘LAST STOP!’.

    Waiting the extra 20 minutes for the M175 to come along wasn’t exactly the end of the world but I still fail to comprehend why he didn’t tell me that his bus didn’t go to Albaida! Ultimate frustration!

    Anna
    Anna recently posted..HELL HATH NO FURY LIKEMy Profile

    • Ugh, I am convinced that the bus drivers in Seville are robots! I always liked the ones who would pull over at a roundabout and snoke a cig or two while I was stressing about being late to class!

  10. Wow, What a fiasco but you seemed to handle it quite well, all things considered. And you learned a few things about yourself- you’re not spontaneous and like/need your comforts of home. That’s good to know.
    Lauren @Roamingtheworld recently posted..Road trippin: Hitting the road without a planMy Profile

  11. Yikes! We hit some snags both traveling to and from Paris this year and it was enough for me to swear off low-cost airlines. (At least for, oh, a few months). Seriously, though, it took us longer to get back to Madrid from Paris than it would have taken a transatlantic trip from the US to Spain. ARgHHHHH.

    Glad you were able to make it back ok!!
    Cassandra recently posted..The best book I read in 2013My Profile

    • That is insane!!!! I expected to take 12 hours and it took me 40. Not planning on taking any flights until March, and that’s within Spain!

  12. Oh my goodness! What a travel maze.
    I just returned from California a day late…flights cancelled, we re-booked, then original flights were back on, so we transferred, then they were cancelled again. Luggage went to Atlanta and then WI without us. I was frustrated because I wanted to get home and was anxious to get back to work. And wasn’t happy about not having a change of clothes. But, we made it home safely and at the end of the day, that’s what’s important.
    Nicole recently posted..New Year New Gear 2014My Profile

  13. Holy hell, you seem like you were way too composed. I would have had a big pity party and cried by my lonesome while I got tired of reading so much. Go maturity! You’ve got it!
    Alex @ ifs ands & butts recently posted..craps! craps! craps!My Profile

  14. This sounds like my worst nightmare. I might have been ok with a travel companion with me, but to go through this all alone? Forget it. Glad that you made it back mostly in one piece!

    I really love the end of this post, because I have had to admit to myself that I am the same way. I like the idea of being a world traveler, but I also love the comforts of home….wherever home may be. I do remember coming back to Spain from a disastrous trip in Paris, and feeling so happy to be back “home”, which Spain finally felt like to me by that point :)
    Cat recently posted..On Being an Introverted Homebody TravelerMy Profile

  15. Oh you poor thing! I must say I’ve been too scared to book two separate flights on budget carriers as I’m convinced something similar would happen to me… glad you got there in the end and even managed to see a bit along the way :) Makes for a good story! (You must have thought that at the time, too!)
    Caitlyn recently posted..Sweating it out courtsideMy Profile

    • Well, now you know it CAN and WILL happen! On my next trip, if we end up booking, we’ll have 12 hours each in Munich and Frankfurt on the way to Bombay!

  16. HI Cat,

    I’m curious what the Amazing Race taught about getting on and off a plane faster. I could use a few of these tips.
    Michael recently posted..Is house sitting worth it? Our one-year experimentMy Profile

    • Thankfully, most budget planes open both doors, and I always have a carry-on and am usually just one person. If I’m not in a hurry, I give up those seats for others. Good travel karma!

  17. Wow. Crazy, luckily I haven’t had anything to major happen yet such as said above. Biggest I had was getting stuck on a broken train in the middle of Switzerland on the way to Rome for 14 hours. that was crazy, no food, almost no drinks, bunch of smelly people. and half the amount of time in Rome as was booked. lol I had some friends who got stuck in Florida for six days as well because of poor weather in the north east. They were not seasoned travelers. They were quite panicked and pretty much didn’t know what to do.
    Thanks for posting.
    Cory
    Cory recently posted..Palace of VersaillesMy Profile

    • Wow!! Makes me remember when the same happened to us in Switzerland on my first trip to Europe. But six days?! I would be desperate to get out of there!

  18. Ugh, that sucks! It made for an interesting story, though.

    Also, are there people who like wearing dirty clothes? Where are they, so I can stay away? :)
    Kaley recently posted..Exploring Vinos de Madrid with Madrid Food TourMy Profile

  19. Oh I’m with you 100% on this! I find traveling pretty stressful when things fall apart but it seems like everything worked out in the very end!
    Adam recently posted..Edinburgh’s Prettiest Little Hotel: Stay Central (near Grassmarket)My Profile

  20. whoa – SO glad you made it. I’m not cut out for it, either. I need slow travel, no stress. WHEW!
    wanderingeducators recently posted..Spices of India: Making Chai Tea Latte at HomeMy Profile

  21. Sounds like you handled a stressful uncertain situation like a pro. Not fun, maybe, but you got a great story out of it and a notch in your seasoned travel belt. Here’s to a smoother new year’s eve in 2014!
    Terry at Overnight New York recently posted..January bargain huntingMy Profile

    • Not fun in the least, but even two days after the ordeal and finally home, I knew it would make for a pretty good tale!

  22. A frustrating experience, Cat, but beautifully told. It’s the best blog-read I’ve had this year!

    Happy New Year!
    Larissa recently posted..Bigger, taller, more: 5 unusual sights in North KoreaMy Profile

  23. Beautifully told, Cat! I do have to agree that the lure of constant, reliable Wi-Fi is pretty strong :)
    Micki recently posted..Five International Family Destinations For Under $100 A DayMy Profile

  24. Oy vey!
    Lillie – @WorldLillie recently posted..Cute and Funny Baby Activities During Maternity LeaveMy Profile

  25. Don’t think I could handle such travel problems. I have enough trouble coping with moving to a new place every month on my current tour. Fortunately, my travel mishaps have been quite minor so far.
    ChinaMatt recently posted..Watching Cambodia Float ByMy Profile

  26. Funnily enough, the travel disaster stories we can share relate to Eastern European trips too. To Hungary and Slovakia. But we’d love to return, just a little bit more smoothly.
    Gran Canaria Local recently posted..British ClubMy Profile

    • Things have definitely changed in my last trip to Eastern Europe, thanks to the expansion of the EU. I’ve also found that more people speak more languages. I am quite fond of my multiple visits out there, even with the travel mishaps!

  27. Not cut out out for around the world travel? – You solved all the problems you could. Seems you coped fine in adverse circumstances to me 😉
    Dave Briggs recently posted..How Much Does It Cost to Cycle Around the World?My Profile

    • Haha, thanks, Dave! Not that I can’t handle it, I’m just recognizing that it’s not for me with my need for creature comforts.

  28. That’s too bad about New Year’s Eve! Hope you did a special dinner or at least drank champagne to belatedly celebrate the new year together.
    Travelogged recently posted..Geneva and the South of France: My 10-Day IntineraryMy Profile

  29. Wow, what a crazy travel experience. I’m glad that you finally got to Spain and were able to take find calm in the Hilton. We’re not cut out to be RTW travelers either :)
    Mary @ Green Global Travel recently posted..INTERVIEW: Jeff Greenwald, World’s 1st Travel Blogger & Founder of Ethical TravelerMy Profile

  30. What a series of events! This could be a movie.
    Ashley recently posted..9 Spanish-language Films YOU should watchMy Profile

    • Ugh – it was a nightmare! I was retelling it to my family today and laughing. Thankfully it all worked out, and I got a great story about it!

Trackbacks

  1. […] gulped down my beer and ordered another, sharing travel tales with the worldly bartender. Like many travel fiascos, a drink and a laugh do me […]

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