Seville Snapshots: Luarca, Asturias

We were faced with a decision that only a pilgrim faces: walk the 1.8 kilometers to an albergue that was rumored to be next to a dairy farm in Almuña, or walk 3km downhill to the town of Luarca.

Duh.

The humble village would house us on the third night of the Camino de Santiago del Norte, a long walk of mostly weaving in and out of the N-634. Billed as one of the most beautiful towns in Spain, I was eager to spend the night on the water, as it would be one of our last.

Luarca is stacked above a small inlet on the Bay of Biscay surrounding a port. I imagined quaint fishing boats bobbing along the river Negro and ornate buildings decorating the cobblestone streets and small, tucked-away plazas.

Sadly, the city fell a little flat for me (truth be told, the road into Luarca was more picturesque!). While I could see some charm in the crumbling buildings and the colorful port, Luarca was disappointing both in vistas as in the bustling pueblo I expected to find. I felt a weak city pulse, despite the number of tourists and pilgrims eating al fresco and splashing in the cool, clear water. In its defense, I ate an incredible salad at my pension’s bar on Calle Crucero!

Think I’m full of it? Christine in Spain was there earlier this summer and had loads of things to say! Have you ever had expectation of a city or place, only to have them fall short?

Thanks again to my trip sponsors – Caser Expat Insurance, Podoactiva, Books4Spain, Your Spain Hostel and Walk and Talk Chiclana. 

Seville Snapshots: Waymarkers on the Camino de Santiago

My flashlight bounces off the ground, searching fanatically for a spray painted yellow arrow on anything – a rock, a tree trunk, an abadoned church. It isn’t even 6am yet, and the rain drives down steadily as we pad silently down the N-634 towards Miraz, where we’d spend the night.

Hayley spots the road marker up ahead, just off the highway. The stone obelisk is worn, and the plaque the kilometers to Santiago, long stolen. The mythic 100-kilometers-to-Santiago mark (the minimum distance to get the Compostela) is barely visible between the rain drops and the darkness, but it takes us off the highway and into a dense ecualyptus forrest.

These road markers – but way of yellow arrow, blue and yellow tiles adorned with a scallop shell or even sticks stuck together whenever the former lacked – lead us all the way from Avilés to Santiago de Compostela, 326 kilometers along the Northern coast of Spain. Sometimes we’d had to use our gut, keeping the ocean always on our right, and the relief of coming upon the next one flooded our consciousness more than once a day. The ancient pilgrims used stars, but we got to use the fabled way markers to make our way to the Obradoiro.

Between Asturias and Galicia, the two autonomous communities we passed through, the road markers changed. In Asturias, where we found the markers to be further and further apart, the ridges of the seashells converged at a point, and this was the way to turn. In Galicia, the opposite was true, and the kilometers were marked near the bottom of the base. This was both motivating and discouraging.

Within cities, the waymarkers sometimes became gold-plated shells on buildings and the sidewalk, or even stickers, such as in the town of Figueras. Still, we only got lost twice, arriving to Santiago on August 11th with enough time to pose in front of the monstrous cathedral, bask in the late morning sunlight and get to pilgrims mass to really rid ourselves of sin (it lasted about five minutes, after which we needed a glass of wine).

Does the Camino de Santiago pass thru your city or town? What are the waymarkers like? To see more pictures, direct yourself to my flickr page.

Camino de Santiago Round-Up: Best Advice and Resources

If you’re reading this on August 11th, chances are that I’m basking in the sun that’s peeking in and out of the clouds in Santiago. I’m likely hot, caked with dirt and nursing blisters on my sore feet. I’ve handed out t-shirts and ribbons, broken down in tears more than a few times and met pilgrims from all around the world.

And, knowing me, I’m probably kicking back a saucer of Albariño en O Gato Negro, a hidden gem in the Santiago dining scene.

As I write from my camp bedroom in La Coruña, less than 100km from Plaza de Obradoiro and the end of my journey, I already feel a bit different from this whole undertaking. The Camino isn’t just about me and my pack, Santi – it’s about my other caminante and dear friend, Hayley. It’s about the other peregrinos I will meet and share stories and snacks with. It’s about the blisters and the sore knees and the aches and pains and beating my body will no doubt take. It’s, of course, about Kelsey and her family, too. I know I’ll be thinking of her with every step, over every mountain. The Camino is my physical tribute to her fight against leukemia and sarcoma, and a sort of spiritual cleansing that I hope to have to get me through the grieving process that still hits me at times.

It’s about the people who have shared in all of this with me, and I feel as though I’ll carry so many of you, too. Your well wishes, donation dollars to Dance Marathon and your advice have taken me far enough. I’ve always been someone to see through any challenge I undertake, and I go after what I want. The Camino has been something in the back of my head for ages, and I’m happy I’ve waited for nearly 28 years to be emotionally fit and at a point in my life where I’m ready to step ahead and see what’s waiting for me.

The Camino seems to be all about people coming together and sharing, and this is part of what attracted me to it in the first place. During the few months we’ve spent dreaming and planning, Hayley and I have used a number of different websites and resources to make this journey happen. I’ve rounded them all up for you here (this list is definitely not exhaustive, but I used them and found them useful):

General Information and History.

The Camino de Santiago has existed for generation, for centuries, and its as steeped in history as it is tradition. For a general overview to the trail, check out the following sites.

Tom Bartel shares his advice for packing, first aid and enjoying on The Way: http://travelpast50.com/category/camino/

Santiago de Compostela’s Town Hall provides background information and history: http://www.santiagoturismo.com/camino-de-santiago

Trish Clark’s Camino guide is a great companion while on the Francés: http://guidetothecamino.com

While this site, Girls on the Way, is not just about the Camino, it’s got loads of great information on long-term hikes: http://www.girlsontheway.com

Packing Tips.

Before even hitting the road, Hayley and I made multiple trips to Decathlon, we broke in boots and bags while consuming ebooks on packing. They say the pack should weigh about 10% of your body weight, so we were working on packing a lot into just a little. These sites helped me pack my own bag.

Eroski’s guide: http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/llevatela-al-camino/

Candace Rardon’s guide on Matador Travel: http://matadornetwork.com/goods/how-to-pack-for-the-camino-de-santiago-pilgrimage-trail/

Erin Ridley’s guide on La Tortuga Viajera (fun fact, she met Candace on the hike!): http://www.latortugaviajera.com/2012/05/camino-packing-list/

I also used an e-book called ‘To Walk Far, Carry Less

You can check out my own list here. How did I do, you ask? I ended up not using the sleeping pad, tossing out the walking sticks (I should have had two, especially for the steep climbs on the first few stages) and didn’t need to bring so many T-shirts. I also found that doing the washing with a stick of laundry soap, rather than gel or powder, was more effective in rubbing out the grime, dirt and stink from my walking clothes.

Planning.

The Camino fits my Type A personality with the planning, and Hayley’s borderline Type B with its ‘go with the flow’ sort of obstacles. But still, getting to and from the Camino, choosing the right route for your physical capabilities and preferences and even where to stay needs to be taken into consideration. Forums were particularly helpful, especially those related to the Camino del Norte, which is not as popular as the Francés.

Official Camino forum: http://www.caminodesantiago.me/board/?sid=9a633b9c5cb0f40609a9e2e2520b091e

Another great forum: http://www.caminoforums.com

A great breakdown to miles traveled and costs incurred (including blister count!) http://traveledearth.com/category/journeys/camino-de-santiago-journeys/

I also used the corresponding pages of the Ciccerone guide to the Camino del Norte, updated in summer 2012, courtesy of Books4Spain. Apart from this book, which I found to be mostly correct, save a few changes for construction in Asturias, I also used the Eroski guide to the stages in Spanish, which also had great information about the allergies along the stages and reviews from other pilgrims.

Pilgrim Credentials.

While traveling on the Camino, pilgrims carry a sort of passport that is a collection of stamps from monasteries, albergues and other historic sites (we have loads from bars and restaurants, too!). Once in Santiago, they can go to the pilgrim’s office to receive the Compostela, the official document stating that the pilgrim has walked at least 100km or biked at least 200. You can email Peterborough Pilgrims, a Christian Order located in the UK, at pilgrimpeterbros@gmail.com. They sent both Hayley and I our (street) creds by mail, free of charge, within a few months, so plan ahead. You can also get the along the Camino at parish churches, but not at albergues.

When actually getting the compostela at the Pilgrim’s Office (Rúa do Vilar, 1, adjacent the cathedral), you’ll be asked to present your credentials and write some basic information about nationality, age and starting point on a log. If you’ve done the walk for spiritual or religious purposes, you’ll be given a fancy certificate, written in Latin, stating you’ve received plenary indlugence and are absolved of your sins. If not, you’ll still recieve a certificate of completion.

Since I did the walk in memory of a friend who had passed, I was able to also add her name to my certificate, known as ‘Viccario por.’ There are volunteers in the office from all over the world, so you shouldn’t have a problem communicating your correct information. To keep your compostela from wear and tear, the post office or tourist shops sell cardboard tubes for cheap. (Many thanks to another pilgrim I met along the way, Fernando Puga, for this information. You can visit his Camino blog here).

Story Telling on the Walk.

The Camino is littered with stories, with reasons for walking, with pilgrims looking for something, whether spiritual or emotional. Part of my fascination with the big walk has been because of the incredible tales I’ve heard that have come from a few days or weeks of just walking. No doubt, we will have shared meals and swapped anecdotes with people from around the world.

The Camino is extremely spiritual, and Aviva Elyn and Gary White explore the spiritual temples along The Way: http://powerfulplaces.wordpress.com

One of the best (and there are few) resources on the Camino del Norte: http://www.caminowalkaboutnorte.blogspot.co.uk

Cole Burmeister walked just four days of the Camino from St. Jean Pied-de-Port, but he captured lovely images: http://www.fourjandals.com/europe/walking-the-camino-de-santiago-photos/

Randall St. Germain’s intimate details of his trip, including information on getting to Fisterra: http://www.caminomyway.com

I’ve always loved Sherry Ott’s perspective when writing, and her notes on the Camino are fantastic: http://www.ottsworld.com/blogs/best-time-to-walk-camino-de-santiago/

Books to read before, during or after.

I’ve long read pilgrim stories, touched by the way that the road can profoundly change a person. Here’s a selection of what I’ve read, and what’s on my Kindle for the trek (Waah, I can’t travel without it!):

Kevin Codd, ‘Field of Stars

Guy Thatcher, ‘A Journey of Days

Paulo Coehlo, ‘The Pilgrimage

Robert C. Sibley, ‘The Way of the Stars: Journeys on the Camino de Santiago

Shirley McClaine, ‘The Camino: A Journey of the Spirit‘ – finished this while on the Camino and, dios, it’s out there!

Joan Fallon, ‘Santiago Tales

Have any other great resources to share? Planning on doing the Camino de Santiago some time during your life? I’m writing this ahead of time, but I already think I’ll be back for more. You can view all of my photos on my Camino Flickr Set, get inspiration from pinterest or check out my twitter log while I’m away.

Camino de Santiago Packing List for Women on the Camino del Norte

As I kid, I used to marvel at how my father could pack a bag, pack the trunk of the minivan or pack enough goodies into the fridge to keep us happy.

I may have inherited his travel hacking skills and his love of beer, but girl did NOT get his gift of packing.

Hiking the Camino de Santiago posed a problem: I needed to find a way to pack equipment for a 200mile hike across Spain through both rain and shine. As a rule of thumb, your pack should weigh around 10% of your body weight, which meant I had around six kilos to work with for two weeks and 12 stages to Santiago. The packing should go more or less like this:

Like always, it’s been a battle of packing, unpacking, moving piles, reducing wares, rationing pills. Here’s what’s in my pack and now on my back:

The Footwear

If there was one place where I wouldn’t skimp in preparation for 200 miles on The Way, it was with my footwear. I had just two requirements: as these boots would be strapped to my feet for 3 – 8 hours a day, they needed to be comfortable, and due to the tendency of rainy weather in Northern Spain during the summer months, they also had to be waterproof.

Be aware that there are also two types of boots – those that are high and protect the ankle, and those that don’t. Had I known that I had weak ankles because of my years of gymnastics, I likely would have bought the higher boots to prevent twisting an ankle  – the Camino del Norte is also a bit more strenuous and full of hills, unlike the majority of the popular Camino Francés.

In the end, I settled on Quechua brand Arpenaz ankle boots with Novadry that weight 750g and have shock absorbers. I’ve been wearing them, along with my custom-made insoles from Podoactiva, as much as possible before the trek. I’ve also packed a pair of supportive Reef brand flip flops for showers, any stops at the beach and for exploring the stops in the evening.

Summary – hiking boots and flip flops.

The Clothes

The Camino is certianly not a fashion statement – I have left home my jewelry, my makeup and my hair products in favor of two-in-one shampoo/conditioner and a plastic comb, my cute rebajas steals for garments with built-in wicking

Decathlon, the French sporting goods company, is chock-full of outdoors clothing, but I was clueless – I’d rather spend my weekends in gastro bars and wandering around with my camera than climbing over fallen tree limbs. I went with the basics – t-shirts and tanks with built-in wicking for perspiration, anti-blister socks, pants that convert into shorts with just a zip, and a waterproof hat and a straw hat in case there’s sun.

Of course, I’ll need non-Camino clothes for when I’m not out walking, so I’ve thrown in a swimsuit (our first five days are along the beach), comfy pajamas, a lightweight cotton dress and a t-shirt from sponsor Walk and Talk Chiclana. Wicking be damned when I sleep!

Summary: Two Ts made of wicking, one tank, one pair of pants, one pair of shorts, five pairs of socks, undergarments, a cotton handkerchief, a fisherman’s hat and a straw hat. I’ve also got sunglasses, since I’m hoping for some sun!

The Equipment

Not only will I need clothing (and likely a change of clothing due to rain), but there’s a lot of other things that will make up my pack weight. I have a lightweight sleeping bag and sleeping bag, an aluminum walking stick, a rain poncho and a flashlight.

I’ve also been told to bring a collapsable bag for evening time to carry my camera and wallet, or to shop or carry groceries, so I grabbed a cheap one at Tiger.

Summary – sleeping pad, sleeping bag, shammy, rain poncho that both Hayley and I can fit into, a water bottle and a walking stick.

The Traveling Pharmacy

Veteran pilgrims warn of road hazards – blisters are rampant, food doesn’t always sit well with stomachs (though I think mine is pretty well adjusted to Spanish cuisines) and there is always, ALWAYS someone snoring in the albergue. I spent a pretty penny on items at the pharmacy, and it seems that the pharmacists in Coruña seem to understand what a pilgrim needs much better than those in Sevilla. Behold, my traveling pharmacy:

Included here is Betadine (antiseptic spray), suncream, a needle and thread to sterilize any blisters, earplugs, 10 big safety pins, anti-bacterial hand gel, a Compeed anti-rub stick, anti-allergy eyedrops, micropore (tape), and various anti-blister pads and bandaids. Not pictured are the ibuprofen and allergy pills. From all accounts, pharmacies along the way are well-versed in pilgrim care, so anything else we need can be bought on the road. The contents are light with all of the casing taken away, and will get lighter as the days wear on. I’ve got my medicine cabinet packed at the very top of my bag.

The Extras

There were other things I just couldn’t travel without on a normal trip – a small, paper notebook and a few pens, my Kindle, Camarón. These three things will be coming along with me on the Camino, worth their weight in gold (or albariño wine) as far as I’m concerned. I’ve also got a clothesline, a waterproof watch, a jackknife, and my electronics, which included an iPod and my two cameras. I may regret the electronics…

Other pilgrims choose to bring little trinkets from home, like packages of instant coffee or a small dictionary to help with the Spanish. Two things you cannot forget is some kind of ID card and your pilgrim’s passport. I was forced to bring my American passport for my RyanAir flight back to Seville, and the pilgrim passport works like one that allows you to travel between countries – at stops along the way in churches, albergues or Pilgrim offices, your passport will be stamped as proof that you’ve done the Camino. I got mine sent right to me by Petersborough Pilgrims.

The seashell I bought on my first trip to Santiago five years ago will also be affixed to my bag. Let the buen camino piropos roll!

The Pack

Apart from the importance of footwear, the backpack you choose will likely be one of the most important purchases you make before taking on the Camino. Meet my mochilita, who I will name Santi in order of St. James and his inspiration for this walk:

If you’re not a trekker, look for a bag that has a weight distribution that will put everything on your hips. This Forclaz 60L bag has meshing to help my back breathe, loads of extra pockets to put important things and a divider that separates the heavy things from the lighter ones further up my back. Santi will be, for better or worse, my closest friend on the hike, and like many pilgrims I’ve seen in the Plaza del Obradoiro at the end of the Camino, I’ll be resting against him, staring up at the spire of the cathedral.

Then it’s onto the spa to scrub all of the Camino grime off of me and massage out all of the knots!

The Giveaway:

Our official sponsors, Caser Expat Insurance, are treating Hayley and I to a few experiences once we arrive to Santiago on August 11th. We’ll be able to relax in the beautiful ancient city, enjoy the local cuisines and even get a massage, and Caser Expat wants to extend that to one lucky reader of Sunshine and Siestas, too. You’ll have the opportunity to choose a ‘La Visa es Bella’ experience, valued between 50-100€, to be used in Spain. You can choose accommodation or a spa/relaxation experience of your liking. This giveaway is only open to residents (or future residents!) of Spain, and the winner will be announced when I arrive to Santiago on the 12th and notified through email.

a Rafflecopter giveaway

Don’t forget I’ll be tweeting and instagramming here and there over the next 14 days and 200 miles, so follow along at @sunshinesiestas and @caserexpat with the hashtag #CaminoFTK. Thanks again for all of your support, and buena suerte!!

My Travel Round Up from the First Six Months of 2013

My parents, upon my high school graduation (10 years ago…thank you, Atlantic Ocean, for existing and putting distance between me and my fellow Tigers just this once!) gave me a heartfelt speech about how I was always the child who never learned how to walk. I went from spitting up on myself to running, just like I went from college to globetrotter four years later.

There was no better way to start my year than ringing in 2013 with my familia and cousin Christyn in Puerta del Sol. The first six months of the year have been busy (but the good kind), fruitful and happy. I’ve been able to sneak in some travel, my 30th country and finish a master’s in the process.

January

After a trip to Barcelona with my parents and taking various day trips around Catalonia, I returned to work absolutely pooped and with zero ganas to move forward. The chilly weather and the extra responsibility of becoming a training Director of Studies was a lot of work, but the great people at Almohalla 51, Myles and David, allowed Hayley and I to come stay with them at their newly-opened boutique hotel in Archidona.

I also looked forward to having the Novio home from his duty abroad. As a late anniversary present, I took him to eat our way through Florence and Bologna. In between bites, we checked out the sites along the Arno, drank copious amounts of espresso and Moretti beer and befriended a Venetian named Peppino. Buona manggia, sí señor!

February

February was quiet, though Angela and Ryan of Jets Like Taxis joined me on a colorful trip to Cordoba. I chalk it up to being a short month.

March

As the trimester wound down, I began to get geared up for my Semana Santa trip to Dubrovnik and Montenegro. Hayley, my Spanish media naranja, and I walked the impressive city walls in Dubrovnik while refueling on cevapi, a spiced sausage sandwich and drinking in the views and local beers at Buza Bar (despite its obnoxious advertising).

After a few days in the Pearl of the Adriatic, we took a bus across the border to Montenegro, which was my 30th country. While  the weather wasn’t stellar, we were charmed by Europe’s youngest country. The friendly people, the free wi-fi and the views of our roadtrip around the Bay of Kotor made for a rejuvenating week.

April

April showers seemed to have brought Feria heat – we sweated right through our flamenco dresses, and I think my right bicep is now twice as large as its twin from all of that fan flicking. I even broke some of my own rules when it came to stalking around the Real!

Just the week before, I had gone up to Madrid (if only I had a euro for every maldito trip I’ve made to la Capital…) to visit my sister-in-law, Nathàlia, and pick up my new car, Pequeño Monty. Nath is Brasilian but did her degree in Alcalá de Henares, city of Miguel de Cervantes fame, so she showed me around her town known for its university and free tapas.

May

Luckily for this guiri, the usual May weather was nowhere to be found, so we got some respite from the heat. Meg and I drank rebujito at the Feria de Jerez, a lite version of Sevile’s famous fête where you don’t get trampled by horses, and we bounced between a Mexican-themed caseta and a biker bar. Toto, We’re not in Sevilla anymore. The following day, I continued the fiesta in the Novio’s village at their Romeria de San Diego, a booze-soaked picnic in the middle of the dehesa.

A week later, I attended my first blog trip to Calpe, a small fishing village that has capitalized on the tourism boom from nearby Benidorm. Despite the hotels popping up along the beach, Calpe is laid-back yet bursting with energy. We were treated to tons of water-related activities, including paddle surfing and betting on our lunch at the Lonja de Pescado.

June

During the first weekend of June, I had to make a trip to Madrid for mandatory camp meetings and Camino dealings. I met with Pablo, Fernando and Alex of Caser Expat Insurance, who are helping me make my Camino For the Kids a reality. I even got my feet checked out by the team at Podoactiva, the same people who outfit professional athletes with their shoes.

The Novio and I snuck in a day at the beach, and my mom came to stay for a week in the last sweltering week of June. I was extremely busy with my master’s and preparing for summer camp. Apart from showing her my favorite restaurants and rincones of Seville, we also made it to Jerez to see the horse show, to Doñana for a horse ride through Mazagón, and San Nicolás del Puerto, where she got to meet the Novio’s mother and ride their prized mare, Orgiva.

I am happy to say that I have very few travel plans at the moment for the second half of the year, save slinging tomatoes at the Tomatina with Kelly in August and Oktoberfest with my cousins in late September – I need a break after a year of turning my blog into a business, completing a master’s in a second language and starting a new job. Sunshine? Yes. Siesta? POR FAVOR. 

Don’t forget that I’ll be back at camp in July, and then walking close to 320km to raise money and awareness for pediatric cancer patients back home on the Camino de Santiago. Please follow #CaminoFTK on twitter or instagram for more information. Sunshine and Siestas is also accepting guest posts during this time, so please send your stories and photos from Spain!

What were your travel highlights of the first six months of the year?

Seville Snapshots: The Village of Osuna

There’s nothing like the open road and the feel of torque under your feet (feet, because I drive stick shift now!) and a new destination to tick off your must-sees list. Hayley, my Spanish media naranja, and I agreed to meet halfway in between our respected cities for lunch in Osuna and a bit of Saturday sight-seeing.

Que Dios bendiga las girlfriends.

The village of Osuna lies midway between Seville and Antequera, a little burp of civilization built upon a lone hill. Fun fact: its flag and coat of arms bears, well, two bears along with a topless woman. This pueblo and I would get along fine, even though it’s better known for being the last place where Julius Caesar fought in person (and the town’s name comes from Urso, ‘bear’ in Latin).

The whitewashed town, crowned by an old university and sprawling church, was sleepy for a warm Saturday, but perfect for a few hours’ lunch over Camino and business plans. It’s not hard on the eyes, either.

Oh, and here’s a bonus one of me and my car, El Pequeño Monty, a 2002 Peugeot 307. Bought my first coche at the ripe old age of 27-and-three-quarters!

Love your little rinconcito of Spain? Sunshine and Siestas is looking for guest bloggers for the busy summer months of late June – mid August while Cat is galivanting in Galicia at summer camp and walking the Camino de Santiago for charity. If you’re interested, send an email to sunshineandsiestas[at]gmail[dot]com with your ideas, photos and stories.

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